I got a couple of those in the last couple of weeks (one for my router and one for the planned mill conversion) they are nicely packed and presented, im just reading through the instruction manual at the moment...
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I got a couple of those in the last couple of weeks (one for my router and one for the planned mill conversion) they are nicely packed and presented, im just reading through the instruction manual at the moment...
Yeah I am pleased,
Have this week set aside to finish up the general mechanics of the machine (to an basic operating stage) then fri-sun to wire up the panel and get it all working so fingers crossed
A similar timetable to myself except mine will just be done in the week, I've only got a couple of bits to do mechanically and then the rest is all electrical...
Belt arrived today.....
......wrong size. Anyway after a long time on the phone and knowing they were not really interested in helping out "small orders" I decided to just move the x axis motor to accommodate it. Turns out it's worked out quite well but what a pain this belt had been! Anyway it seems to be fine now.
Most of the electrical stuff has arrived now only waiting on a few bits and the e chain.
Should have moved on a lot by this time next week fingers crossed.
Also.....
Planning on using grub screws on the steppers at 90 degrees to each other. What size would people use on an 8mm shaft and a 10mm shaft?
Depends on the size of the pulleys I guess, I've used M4's on the 20 tooth pulleys as well as the 40 tooth ones. My 40mm pulleys are a push fit on the ballscrews so I'm hoping that's enough. Could always put a bit of loctite on too...Quote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
Well I'm on 30 tooth pulleys. So I'm guessing that would work as well. I have a similar fit with the pulleys so that should work. Cheers
Hammer a bit of 1.5mm copper wire flat and cut a small piece off to drop down the hole where the grub screw goes I find it make a big difference and does not mark the shaft. CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
Larger grub screws the better so can get good purchase on them, fiddley Grub screws are a pain and definately loctite the pulleys on. You'll never really want them off again other than to replace and certainly don't want them spinning on the shaft. Also mark them so for easy visual reference so can check they are not spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by njhussey
I did like Dean says, larger grub screws. I also filed flat recess on shafts, where grub screws go. It was quite easy using small square file. It seemed to me it would help. Locktite also. In fact my major mistake on the first build was not using locktite on all screws. Result was from vibrations or whatever at least 2 screws difficult to access
loosened so i wasted some time tightening again all screws on my friends machine. On my current build i use Locktite on all screws and i hope all will be perfect long time after i am finished. Same goes for the supported rails. When all was mounted and square, i carefully poured locktite between screws and rails. later checked it, it worked. Then i fit the plastic caps.
Thanks for all that info guys very helpful. I can just about get away with2 m4 grub screws on these pulleys so that's the way I'll go.
Half finished up one side cover just waiting on some bits to arrive. I figured if I didn't do it now once the machine was running I would probably keep putting it off!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...dfb5cbaa24.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...71207690d4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...d1829d6180.jpg
I was looking at a way of protecting the ballscrew and was thinking of C section Ali but couldn't see how I was going to put the brush on the rail side to seal the gap. How are you doing it as I can't see a brush so I guess chips etc could still get in there?
As I mentioned it's half finished. If you look there is a brush on the outside edge, I did try a 2" brush from one side but it was too much so opted for 2 1" brushes. The other just sits off from the bearing rails on the inside of the gantry so the two pretty much meet in the middle.
So you did....I must have glossed over that bit! How are you fixing it by the rails? Looking forward to seeing it finished...
The brush sections fit neatly under the bearings with enough clearance for some countersunk m5 screws to hold it down along the full run. Just haven't got round to that yet.
Btw tool station are pretty good price wise on these brushes.
Where did you get your brush strip from, how thick is it?
I wasn't quick enough!!!
Right we are wiring up the psu. Transformer wired correctly giving 52 Vac. Connected to the Bridge rec at correct terminals. Output from the rectifier on the dc terminals is 45v ?? Shouldn't this be 70ish? Do we have a broken rectifier?
Have you put the capacitor(s) on the output of the rectifier? If not then that reading seems about right, as the meter is reading the rectified AC waveform, not a smooth DC output.
Thanks Jonathan,
so we have now connected the caps up to the BR, on powering up to check what voltage we were getting instead of even getting there we got a huge amount of humming and some extreme heat through the negative cable coming from the BR so immediately turned it off.
any ideas what could be going on / we are doing wrong?
we have checked that it is definitely the +ve of the BR going to the +ve on the caps and the same for the -ve.
does there need to be a load on the PSU before we power it up?
scratch that - problem solved, 68/69 Vdc now :)
What was it?
well, it was only one cap doing the crackling and humming so changed it out and works fine now so I think it may have been a dodgy one!
or connected the wrong way round:nonchalance: ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
So got movement on y and z today :)
However need some assistance with the csmio board.
We have one digital input set up. Input 0 (pin 1. +ve, pin 14 -ve)
Feed runs from 24v supply through t3/l3 on contactor to pin 1, 24v present on pin 1 measured with MM.
And pin 14 connected to 24v -ve.
In Mach ports and pins estop is enabled, port #10 and PIN number 0 or 1 we have tried both and active high and low tried and with no combination of these can we get a response from Mach or an LED on the unit in either state
What are we doing wrong??
Other than that it's awesome to finally have some movement!!
Well you are connected correctly with right port and pins so Just has a test of the input try running 24V direct to pin 1 not thru contactor. It should light the Led on the controller. (you can also open plug-in to see active I/O state it's often easier)
What is the contact type NO or NC.! . . . . If NC then you want E-stop Pin active High and vise versa if NO.
Problem solved, one wire going into a din connector was clamped on the insulation and not connecting, after that works fine so thanks.
Finally..... The relay outputs from the csmio - to control the spindle forward control from Mach should it just be wired from DCM on huanyang inv to pin 25 and pin 12 to For? That's for relay output 4 I'm hoping? I've got the analog hooked up fine just can't get it to switch on. I've set the parameters as well so it's not manual control pd001&2 I think (not in front of the machine right now)
Yes wiring correct but you need to go into ports & pins and spindle setup then Spindle control and check the disable Relays box and set M3 to output #4.Quote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
Just as a heads up as it's common Gotcha.!! . . . One thing to watch for with these Controllers is you need to check your drives are using the same Step edge otherwise you'll lose a step on every direction change.
The IP-M is set to leading edge so check what the drive is set to.? Can't remember what drives your using and can't be arsed to go back searching but if AM882 or EM drives then you can change the Active edge in software and possibly using Dip switches but can't remember.
Some drives don't give this option but it's not a problem as you can just change the Active edge state in Motor outputs. Thou it doesn't work in usual way Mach3 does and reverses motor direction so if you need to reverse motor direction then use "Reversed" in Homing limits.
Best thing is to test by righting some g-code with lots of Back n forth moves and check the axis returns to same spot.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e9f96f10e4.jpg
When you say check the disable relays do you mean put a tick in the box or check it's not ticked?
The csmio manual suggested it should be unticked.
However tried it both ways and it still doesn't work.
I have 24v across DCM and For at the inverter. And 24v at pins 25/12
Output 4 light comes on but no action. Have I missed something in the inverter settings :/
Sorry bit lost now
Slight follow up, if I send a m3s2000 command then I put the multimeter across the 25/12 pins the spindle powers up so the analog is working but it appears neither of the relays in the csmio are switching even though the little leds light. I'm going to try a separate relay with and output from 1-3 ( I'll make sure I supply the 24v to the board for those outputs) and
Ye sorry my fault worded it wrong should have said make sure un-ticked.
Sorry about this but I know what your problem is but must have had brain failure.!!! . . . . . . In ports n pins set the out put your using for spindle to Pin 4 not pin 12.!! . . . . It's a cock up in the manual and to make it worse I was the one who told CSlabs about it so should have known better.!!
For instance if you set M3 in spindle control to output #1 then go into outputs and set output #1 to pin4.
Cheers again Dean however we figured the pin thing out from the estop settings as someone else online mentioned the pins related to the output number not the pin manual.
So in doing all this the output 4 "Pin" has always read 4 and 5 has read 5 when testing this. The only mention of 12 was where I was wiring to.
I don't know why but I've got a feeling these relays are not working :/
I'm going to nip out and get a din relay and try the outputs 1-3 to try and get it to work for now
Try what I said set OUTPUT #1 pin 4 and then in spindle control set M3 #1 . . . And see if it works. That's how I set the spindles with IP-M.
Well I gave it a try and still nothing :/ pics below are the settings and you can see output 4 is coming on....
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...0a054480b5.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...ce307cd227.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...59d1836301.jpg
I'm presuming you have turned the Analog Spindle DAC on in Config Plug-in.?
Output 4 is obviously working as it's LED is lighting so just put a continuity test across the pins and it should toggle ON/OFF.
Aftet that then I'm at loss to help from a far.!! . . . . I'd be very surprised if the controller is faulty but suppose it's possible thou would be a first to me and I've fitted a fair few now.!
Right thanks for all the help Dean.
In answer to the questions:
Yes DAC turned on in plugin.
Did continuity test, get nothing between pins when they are on or off.
Have just wired up a din relay to output 1 from the csmio and got it working first time no problem. So who knows but I'm happy with that
The only thing that's not working quite right is the rpm if i set it at 2000 or 1000 it spins the same speed. Analog signal is fluctuating as expected with the different s commands so I think I've probably not set something right on the inverter parameters?
Wants returning then has it should work.!Quote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
How many poles should this 3kw motor have? My inverter defaults to 4 but I I'm seeing 2 a lot on the 2.2kw versions?!?