I'll give you a shout when I need my 5 axis spindle making lol, superb work
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I'll give you a shout when I need my 5 axis spindle making lol, superb work
Haha, love the 3D printer - wish it was that quick!
Do the seals sit ok without the chamfer machined?
They seem fine. I've moved the Z axis up and down and they sit nicely. Definitely adds some friction though so may need that second Z stepper. Also wish I had allowed them to float in individual housings to get them to sit perfectly aligned to their respective rail. But very pleased and a big thank you for printing them out the 'slow way'.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy
Here comes episode 10 - machining parts for the bed:
https://youtu.be/wqff3IZZWvw
Your CNC porn videos just kill it :)
Thanks Desertboy !
You have solutions I would never think of.. thanks for sharing!
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Very informative videos indeed!
Thanks Nr1madman. Most of the ideas have been borrowed from looking at too many other machines!
Thanks Nickhofen glad you are enjoying it.
Hi routercnc,
Greatly enjoying your videos! One question, on your latest one, after cutting all the extrusion uprights, how did you machine them to be exactly the right length and exactly square?
Did you clamp them in the vice to be perfectly perpendicular and then machined the top, then turned over and machined the opposite end? Thanks.
I actually cut them several months ago before I started making videos so what you see in ep10 is staged for continuity. But when I did cut them out I remember spending time setting up a stop and cutting a few practice ones to get them dialled in for length. The saw cuts pretty square and I did not need to machine them afterwards. Also the steel section which sits on top is not flat so there is no point in chasing tenths on the uprights. When it goes together I may need some shims and when bolted tight the top steel section may get pulled down unevenly. But this is fine as it will have epoxy levelling to get it all aligned for the rails.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward
EDIT !
Sorry Edward - went out to the workshop this morning and had a closer look and they do actual having machining marks on the ends, plus they have numbers on them (e.g. -3, 7, 4 . . . ) which are the errors in hundredths of mm at various places across the end on the total length. Sorry - so many parts I lost track there. Yes, I did machine them to final length.
I would have clamped them against the side of the vice and made sure they were flat onto the bed (as the sides are not straight/flat).
OK, episode 11 is now ready.
We say a fond farewell to the trusty Mk3 and start building the bed frame for Mk4.
https://youtu.be/sq-DNeiG8IA
You put us all to shame, nice build:yahoo:
Cheers Clive. Feels like I'm starting to get there now and this thing might actually get built !
Episode 12 - finishing the second ballscrew on the gantry
https://youtu.be/41gxI4oXBBU
I love these videos :)
Nice to see a file being used properly too ;)
Oh and that lathe is way too clean.
Bummer, Can't get this to open on my old imac(10fourfox browser) so thought i would flash up the windows XP (Firefox) still wont have it.
Strange as i have been watching all your previous vid's on the iMac.
Have you downloaded it to a different format ?
Mike
Hi Dave
Cheers for that. Something therapeutic about filing aluminium! And yes I do like to keep the lathe clean.
Mike
I uploaded everything the same as usual. Same format etc. Does it work if you go to youtube direct instead of via the forum?
Weird
Today it works, will get a brew and watch it. Many thanks again for all your efforts in the vid department
Mike
Glad it's working today - computers eh!?Quote:
Originally Posted by mekanik
Glad you are enjoying the videos although I've got a thumbs down on the latest one already. I guess you can't please everyone. It would be good to know why so I can improve things where possible but I don't think YouTube ask users for a reason?
Yes but it might have been clicked by mistake, easy to do:sorrow:
Don't beat yourself up over it- probably someone that does not even know what it is. The videos are perfect - detailed, informative, light-hearted where needed and very clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
I didn't want to say anything as you are doing a cracking job on your build, however if i had to bore a pulley i would have set it up in a 4 Jaw with 4 short pieces of silver steel inserted into the belt slots and clocked on the OD of the pins then it's spot on with the newly bored hole. however if you don't have a 4 Jaw this isn't an option.
Mike
Hi MikeQuote:
Originally Posted by mekanik
I welcome suggestions on other ways to do things so please do mention them. I've only had the lathe a year or so and still lots to learn. I do have a 4 jaw chuck and it takes a bit of time to swap over (retaining nuts are a bit fiddly to access) but I like your idea. Pity I've just bored out the ones for the X axis so they are all done! Next time though . . .
Episode 13 is now ready - machining the ball screws and installing them on the bed.
(Contains some paid for content)
https://youtu.be/z7pyLUHHsik
I spotted the "this old tony" bit with the 4 jaw :encouragement: nice as always.
Yes I have to pay homage to ToT.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Would be nice if it really was that quick!
Does the grubscrew for your pulley locate on the actual ballscrew ?
Looked like it might be fixing into your extension.
Regards
Mike.
Thanks for the update
Hi MikeQuote:
Originally Posted by mekanik
The grub screws in the hub go direct to the ball screw shaft. The green loctite holding the extension is good stuff but I wouldn't want to rely on it to transmit the drive.
Note to others - if you want to use pulleys ask for longer sections!
OK, episode 14 is now ready. This time we finished off the Z axis ball screws and wire up the new steppers.
https://youtu.be/UQVooJ1aURM
Amazing build, has to be the heaviest Z axis I've seen yet.
Thanks Dave. Yes, glad I managed to squeeze two steppers on the Z axis. It is too heavy for my scales so I need to find a way to weight it. Certainly picking it up is a challenge (and there is no spindle yet).
The whole machine will run initially off 3 Nm steppers at about 70V, through some fairly old analogue drivers (DQ860MA) and a DB25 breakout board through the parallel port. Not massively high spec so it will be interesting to see how it copes with the weight of everything . . .
By the way, thank you for the grub screw insert idea. You might have seen your name mentioned in the video (faintly on the 'Grub Screw Insert' title page) ! I tried to get much larger inserts in there but there was no space on the upper part to go much bigger. I would have needed to counter sink them into the lower part (manually, no CNC!) but even there the space between other fixing holes was tight. The surface area of the 8 mm discs is much bigger than the 'ring' contact area on the base of the hollow cone on the end of the grub screw so will be better. I could always make new plates with steel pad inserts if the head keeps moving out of alignment.
Episode 15 is now ready for viewing: Setting out the epoxy leveling for the X rails. This was my first time using epoxy like this and I certainly learnt some things along the way - especially those bubbles !
https://youtu.be/Ax5Ib7GcTqE
Beautiful work as always.
What did you learn about the bubbles?
I saw in the video you used a heat gun to try and get rid of them.
Were you successful?
Answer is quite a lot! Although I had read lots about epoxy levelling on this site it is not until you do it yourself that you get a feel for it all. In short I made some mistakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Electroconducive
It will all be in the next video but that will be some time away.
I checked the flatness and it was all over the place because of the bubbles. Where I had used the heat gun the most started to cure quicker which probably didn't help.
I tried to lap the surface back but it was taking forever and it was going to be tricky to ensure I kept both sides parallel to each other.
I think the epoxy should have been mixed slowly to avoid too many bubbles and then left in the warm bath to help some of them escape. Then pour slowly and use a stick to pop any remaining bubbles. The heat gun should be used sparingly if at all.
I had a long think about it all then took a chisel to it and took it all off. New epoxy on order plus some redesign of the channeling. I may even lay in multiple stages just waiting for it to skin over between coats. Not sure yet . . .
In short I'm back to square one but this needs to be right!
I noticed you were rather vigorous with the mixing. You also poured the epoxy with some kind of measuring jug from the spout.
I am sure I read somewhere that poking a hole in the bottom of a container and using that to pour is a handy way to do it. It allows any bubbles that have formed in the 'gentle' blending of the two part epoxy to rise to the top. Stopping an aerated mixture being applied to the frame.
Also, it might be worth a try with the extra slow tropical hardener?
My thinking being the longer cure time would allow not only the bubbles to rise for the bottom pouring method, but the heat gun to work to release bubbles as the epoxy remains less viscous for longer.
I've never poured either. I am just repeating what I've seen other people have success with on this very forum.
Hope your next pour goes better.
You definitely did the right thing, if it was was me I'd be bitching about it for years to come but it's got to be right.
It reassuring to see I'm not the only one that can make a mistake although we call it learning ;)
routercnc
if you have access to a vacuum pump you could degas the resin prior to installation, have seen old pressure cookers used with a perspex lid, then you could place the resin in a container that can be pressurised. poly pipe going to the bottom of the container, LOW pressure air on top of resin to initiate your pour, after bleeding you resin supply pipe place that in direct contact with the pour surface and this should prevent any entrainment. initial mixing might be better done with flat stirrer figure of 8, softly softly.
Regards
Mike
I think it was Clive who mentioned pouring into another container with a hole in the bottom. It crossed my mind but I had decided on the water bath to decrease viscosity and was concerned that water may get in and ruin the mix.
Sylavski had also posted lots on epoxy as well as Neal plus many others.
Thing is I'm not ignoring what others have written and it all goes in, and you have a plan, but you need to do it for real yourself to appreciate all the subtle aspects.
As for the tropical hardener I was using the 206 not the 205 hardener as this takes longer to set. I actually emailed West systems about what I wanted to do and was advised to use the 206. Thing is that a skin forms after 30 mins or so anyway and any bubbles will then be trapped so I don't think the long set time helps on the bubbles side. Good for self levelling though.
West said laying in one session was best rather than layers but I got the impression from the overall reply that they had not used it for 5mm beds for CNC rails. It is usually for boat repairs etc.
Whilst I wait for supplies to arrive plus some other parts I am rethinking my approach. Looked into vacuum pumps to degas but this is £200 for a small kit. I think next time I will :
Mix gently
Then place in water bath to help bubbles escape
Pop any remaining bubbles
Slowly poor but start in the 2 channels as bubbles come out first (and these are waste area)
Make sure surface is all wetted and coax with cocktail stick into all areas on first layer
Then maybe leave to just skin over (so still tacky) and repeat or may just go in one long session?
Pop any bubbles with cocktail stick or gently blow
Intuitively feels like this should be gently poured and touched as little as possible ( I think any prodding and touching will show on the finished surface)
Also thinking even with a perfect pour the last tiny deviations (once cured) will need shimming or epoxy putty to get the last 0.05 or so dialled in?
Hi guys,Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
I must say by the sound of it West is harder with the bubble issue then the resin i used.
I did not use west systems resin, 209 was unavailable in NL.... had to look for a alternative but found a usable resin else where. 5hr of pot life so plenty of levelling time. Get the slow hardner
I weighed out (kitchen type 1gram scale) and mixed the resin+/- 1kg at a time in a 1.5 liter kitchen type container with a bend wire on the batterydrill.
The whole mix turned greyish from air getting trapped in the fluid. This worried me at first.
After mixing i left it to de-bubble for at least 30min or so, some bubbles at the surface of the container remained and where wiped away with a paint brush.
Then poured only in the bridge channel, in between the x rails. no bubbles remained after flowing out evenly.
Hope this helps.
Grtz Bert.
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