https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W3XrzJN_Wg
moooving :D
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W3XrzJN_Wg
moooving :D
Another one Lives. Well done that man.:toot:
It's always nice to see a machine move for the first time:thumsup:
Nicely done !
Thanks for the support! Couldn't have done it without you!!
Tomorrow I'm going to try to verify steps per mm , square the gantry with sensors :)
Dont think I will have time for all limits, all homes, cleaning up the cable jungle in the control cab.
Those things come later, I think spindle is next and then cutting something :D
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Well done man!!! Excellent work!!!
Looking good !Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
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Woohoo!!! Nice!!!
Okey, Im now in trouble again after mayor brainfreeze :)
Have routed my homeswitches.
I connected them in parallell.
Brown wire = 24v
Blue wire = gnd
Black wire = signal to bob
If I use this config I get 24v when measuring between black and blue.
If one switch gets close to steel they all light up and the voltage goes to 0 between black and blue.
If I use this paralell connection the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?
Should I instead connect it in series ?
Can't get my mind around this :)
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Home switches, or limit switches? If all are going to a single input, then limit... What input (although you said output) are you connected to on BOB? E-Stop? Regardless, your BOB is probably looking for 5V, yes? If so, you need to make a voltage divider to take that 24V to ~5V - maybe an 18K/4.7K resistor divider.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
OTOH, I don't know squat about your BOB, controller, etc., so maybe I should just zip it...
Just clarify "the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?" - you mean the input pin, designated for the home switches? If "input" and not "output", then okay, I'm with you...Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
You cannot (easily) connect proximity switches (NPN by the sound of it) in series - not without ancillary switch-gear. In parallel, with a common input into Mach3, and inverting the input in the set-up (if necessary), this should work fine.
Provided, of course - the bob supports 24V input (most cheapies are 5V, but you can adapt these easily to 24V if necessary with a resistor) - sorry, not read back in the thread to check your bob.
Can you explain more clearly your concern?
My simple bob handles 24v so thats fine.. you say input and that makes me think I did right :DQuote:
Originally Posted by wallyblackburn
Im going to use two inputs for homing (one for x y z and one for a which is slaved )
Limits are for another input.
Probe and e stop makes it full :)
Have to get one more bob!
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Thanks for helping!Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Well it seems Im confused as usual.
Ment input and that makes it good I think ;)
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I think we need to define home and limit. Home is a reference point, limit means "any further and something bad will happen". If you want to home each axis, you'll have to use an input for each axis. Limits can be connected to same input because, if any are tripped it is an error situation and you just want all to stop ASAP. You can then determine what the problem is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Does that make sense?
Regards,
Wallace
Yes, total sense if you home all axis at the same time. You can actually home one axis at a time and back of the sensor so you can sense the next "home"Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyblackburn
When / if I buy another bob and get more inputs I can home all at the same time :)
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Not sure how you have it setup but you have 5 input pins this is how I am setting mine up. Z and Y1 sharing a pin, then X & Y2 on their own pin which leaves a pin for touch sensor and a pin for estop. Then set it up to home Z first then home X&Y at the same time. This is good for me as the Z is then always at the highest point before it moves the X/Y so clearing any brackets I have strung across the bed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
I have Y1 and Y2 as I have 2 microswitches and 2 motors on the Y axis. So when it homes it can adjust itself square. This was a bitch to do in linuxcnc lol and I have to do it again when I set the Mesa up but shouldn't be so bad the 2nd time.
I'd connect limits to the estop if you have separate ones after all you should never use them unless something has gone wrong but you can also wire all the limits to share the touch setter.
Got my z axis running like a kitten today :D
So movement seems good!
Connected vfd and spindle, starts and runs in the right direction :D
Have connected the relay on the bob and 1-10v on the bob to the vfd.
Now I have to set up the vfd.
Don't look forward to this!!
Have found several "guides" and lots of them contradict each other. Confusion is complete!
Think I will follow this guide...
The VFD parameters
First, reset the VFD to factory settings. You don't know where that thing's been. On the front panel, hit PROG (or PRGM), and then the up and down buttons until you reach*PD013. Hit SET. Change the value to 8 using the up and down buttons. Hit SET again. Now your VFD is reset.
For the next parameters, I've renamed them to make some kind of sense. For setting multi-digit values, use up and down to increase and decrease the value, and the >> key to move one digit to the right.
PD001:*Command source. Set to 0. 0 means you're controlling the spindle via the front panel controls. 1 means you're using controls that you've wired up to the screw terminals. 2 means you're going to control it using RS-485.
PD002:*Speed control source. Set to 1. 0 means you're controlling the speed through the up and down front panel buttons. 1 means you're going to control the speed with either the knob on the front or an external potentiometer. 2 means RS-485.
When PD002 is set to 1, there is also a jumper next to the screw terminals that you have to set. If the jumper is on the right pair, the control is the front panel knob. If the jumper is on the left pair, the control is via an external potentiometer connected to the screw terminals. Make sure the jumper is on the*right-side pair.
By the way, I found setting 0 pretty weird. You only get to see the speed as a frequency, not as RPM.
PD003:*Default frequency. If PD002 was set to 0, this is the frequency the motor will start running at. The frequency is directly related to the speed. Since we set PD002 to 1, we can leave this alone. But you can set it to something like 200 Hz to start at mid-range.
PD004:*Rated frequency: Apparently this is for motors with a fixed frequency. Since the spindle is variable frequency, this setting can be ignored.
PD005*through*PD010*set three points on a voltage/frequency curve. As the motor ramps up to your desired speed, it follows this curve. The manual usefully shows three types of curve: constant torque, low torque, and high torque. I've set mine to the values for the constant torque graph (why not).
I think that if you get a VFD with a spindle, the particular model of VFD comes with different factory settings for these depending on the spindle. Which is nice.
PD005:*High-end frequency: 400 Hz
PD006:*Middle frequency: 2.5 Hz
PD007:*Low-end frequency: 0.5 Hz
PD008:*High-end voltage: 220 V
PD009:*Middle voltage: 15 V
PD010:*Low-end voltage: 8 V
PD011:*Minimum allowed frequency. Set to 120 Hz. Air-cooled spindles are not meant to stay at low speeds, otherwise they overheat. I understand that water-cooled spindles can go as slow as you want.
Leave the next parameters alone, and skip to...
PD070:*Speed control input: Set to 1. This means that the speed will be controlled by an input voltage between 0 and 5V. This is what the front panel knob delivers. 0 means 0-10V. 2 means the control is by an input current between 0 and 20mA. 3 means 4-20mA. 4 is a combination of voltage and current.
PD071:*Speed control responsiveness: Leave at the factory setting of 20.
PD072:*High-end frequency: Set to 400. This sets the frequency represented by the top end of the speed control.
PD073:*Low-end frequency: Set to 120. This sets the frequency represented by the bottom end of the speed control.
Now skip straight to...
PD141:*Rated motor voltage: Set to 220V.
PD142:*Rated motor current: Set to 10A.
PD143:*Number of motor poles: Set to 4. This is the number of magnetic poles in the motor. It should be either 2 or 4, and is 4 for the 2.2kW spindle.
PD144:*RPM at 50Hz: Set to 3000. Since the max RPM is 24000 at 400Hz, this means that the RPM at 50Hz will be 3000.
That's it!
Looking good those who know?
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I've set just a few parameters on Automation Direct VFDs, but that looks like a decent guide. Take your time and double-check. Good luck.
How much travel in your Z-Axis?
Thanks,
Wallace
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyblackburn
Z axis has 140mm of travel..
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Sanitycheck please :D
Have tried my HOMEs now. Signal is high unless any switch is triggered.
This works but should a wire fail Im in trouble as I'm connecting 3 axis paralell to one input?
The slaved axis with separate input is safe because I would notice a broken wire?
Confusion. ...
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Relay(s) to turn your NO to NC would do the trick with an added layer of complexity or order NC sensors from china and slum it for a few weeks with the ones you have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
3rd option run as is probably be fine lol.
I know that if I start running with this it will never get changed :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
Limits will go through relays but I've read that homes should get connected without relays or logic circuits to get the best repeatability? :)
I feel so close now!!
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I think if you use Solid state relays it's not an issue as they switch a lot quicker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
But just buy new switches is the proper solution and obviously what you're thinking, you can still play without home switches.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs...724076488.html
Aren't these the same switches but NC?
I guess you are right!Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
Im so sick of soldering and shrinktubes and that crap.. hoped I was done :D
Swedish post has introduced a new fee for packages that come from outside of eu.. so ordering from China will get expensive from now on.
Except for VAT there will be an extra charge for every package. Think the smallest charge was around 7£.. This takes away the freedom of just shopping cheap stuff.
Anyway :D
Will have a play tomorrow and try to make sense of pulses/mm.
Had it at 160 at the moment but didn't seem quite right.
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Relays would work - but if you are worried about broken wires, loose connections, etc, then you need a separate relay at every location where there is a switch. Not a practical way forwards, even more wiring needed, and will cost more than replacing the switches! The only real answer is NC switches, wired in series. This is particularly important for limit switches as you really do want these to function reliably, but I'm not sure if you are using combined home/limit switches. If these are just for homing and you have separate limit switches (NC, I hope), then the home switches are not safety-critical and you probably won't actually break anything if something in the home switch circuits fails.
If Just home switches then don't worry about it because if one fails the Limits will catch it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Not using combined home/limits!
Went with mechanical switches for limits and they are no/nc.. so it might be ok :)
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I'm comforted now... thanks ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
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...as long as you use the NC contacts for the limit switches! Simplifies wiring as well as they can all be in series taken to a single BOB/motion controller input pin. I use proximity switches myself; mine are arranged in pairs (min/max limits on each axis) and wired in "series". Doing that is slightly more complicated than with mechanical switches but it works fine. I tested them with 4 in series (remembering that I also use 24V) and they seemed to work OK as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
.... and there is no reason to make it more complicated than it has to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
So true :)Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Camera
I have been curious for some time now.. where in Sweden are you from?
And do you make money from your cnc endeavours or is it only hobby usage?
Have found alot of inspiration from your YouTube channel!
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Alright :D
First test cut made!
https://image.ibb.co/kfwnen/20180328_094110.jpg
Was a bit of difficulties at first.
Got spindlecontrol working at first but with mayor problems.
Estop was tripping and uc300 was loosing connection from computer.
Disconnected speedcontrol from bob and ran only the start relay. Worked better!
Then when I started jogging the machine with spindle on I got false e stop again :(
Disconnected e stop from bob and only had it to control master relay.
Got the problem that when jogging two axis simultaneous uc300 disconnected.
I think the problem is my 5v psu so I hijacked 5v from my pc psu and ran to uc300 so that got powered from pc and the bob/driversignals from separate 5v psu.
This made it work :D :D
I have not reconnected spindle speedcontrol but Im guessing that works now too..!
Homes are working but my slaved axis (x/a) needs a bit calibrating. When cutting a grid of 300x300mm I get about 1mm differens in the diagonals. But there is plenty of adjustment available in the home sensor brackets so it's no biggie :D
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Congrats on getting her going, everyone cuts a circle lol.
My first circles were off by about 1mm I read a post by Jazz about rising/falling edge so I flicked the jumper (No. 8 on my AM882) and now the sizes are correct.
Here's Jazz's post
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/4513-...9450#post99450
Maybe the amperes are not enough from the PSU 5v for powering both the UC300 and Bob that is why you solve the problems when you get your 5vokts from two different power supply ...just a thought.
From the UC300 manual
Attachment 23992
Hey Nr1madman,Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Congrats on the first cut.
Grtz Bert.
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Hmm have read about that a couple of times.Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
Have to try it and see if there is accumulation.
But for it to be real obvious I should write a program that takes the axis back and forwards ALOT of times to see if the position changes? :)
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I think you might be correct Nick!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Either that or my thin long wires from the first psu are the culprit.. or interference.. ;)
The psu is speced at 5v 2A so it should be plenty?
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Thanks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
But I got even more trouble when powering the board via usb. Then it disconnected whenever I e-stopped ;)
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