Try to make a diagram with the help of UB1 manual....
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Try to make a diagram with the help of UB1 manual....
This is what I come up untill now, no water pump or stepper motors yet added.
HY VFD is going to be connected according the second schematic.
Can you guys check the diagram to see if you find any issues, I add also the manual of UB1.
Also please suggest where to put fuses and relays.
Thanks,Nick.
Attachment 24558
Attachment 24559
http://www.cncroom.com/downloads/UB1...al%20E15R0.pdf
One thing I see is that you seem to have fuses in the -ve line from the 72v PS that is NOT good practise and are not necessary. Also 5A may be a bit low
Not a good practise at all ,I didn'r realyse I put the fuses there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
I change it .Thanks!
Attachment 24560
Can anyone suggest how to connect relays and fuses at this wiring diagram?
Hi Nick,Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
I have a primairy CB 16amp C type for the entire cabinet.
I have a CB 4Amp on the 230volt side of the 24vdc 2a supply. PSU secundary is shortcicuit protected.
But maybe an extra 24volt side glass fuse would be appropriate there.
The above CB's are for convienience only.
I still want a 16amp B type CB on secundary side 72vdc psu.
Mine is a high amp (10amps nominal) psu 500va transformer... and would like to protect the wiring in the panel.
Shorting out 72vdc circuit can lead to higher amps than i can trust some of the 1mm2 cabinet wiring with.
Since you have 5vdc onboard on ub1 no problems there.
For the relays.. is this about the e-stop relay we talked about?
Can you list the stuff you want to control by relays? You mentioned an ub1 has 3 onboard so...
Maybe pneumatic valves, pumps , vfd?
What needs switching on/off more than the 3 relays available to you?
I would use the onboard relays just for low current stuff like the remote on / off for the vfd , the spindle cooling pump, maybe chip clearing air valves and or liquids.
BTW doesn't your design allow for 4 combined end / home switches?
Do you plan on using all 8 off them?
like 4 home and 4 end?
I read about this a few times on the forum they can be combined in some configurations.
I have no hands on experience this subject (and a lot of other things) :-) yet.
Grtz Bert.
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Why would you want a 16 breaker on the secondary side Just a slow blow fuse to each drive is more than enough.Quote:
I still want a 16amp B type CB on secundary side 72vdc psu.
Mine is a high amp (10amps nominal) psu 500va transformer... and would like to protect the wiring in the panel.
Hi Clive S,Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Like i said.. most cabinet wiring is 1mm2.. a bit on the thin side for maximum current the 500va 72vdc psu can generate.
And nothing to stop it .... yet.
I did run separate wires to all drives.
So i could do 4 fuses. 1 per drive.
like these
https://goo.gl/images/zFDM82
Or 1 cb for all..
Grtz Bert.
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The only thing the 72v ps is supplying is the drives so what has the 1mm wiring got to do with it. Also 1mm cable can carry in the region of 10A
Hi BertQuote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
Thanks for the reply.
The relays that the card has onboard are charachterized as ''signal relays that should never used as power relays, they are intended to convey signals such as fwd and reverse to a VFD ...However please take care , as the contact of these relays can carry a max current of 0.5 amp at 120V AC or 1 amp at 24V dc.The user must use an external relay if the load requirements of the device will exceed the current rating.''
This is why i mention the external relay connection.
To answer the other question you put, I want to connect the maximum I can on this card ,water pump , air nozzle etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
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I am going for this configuration because my previus cnc was wired like that, if there is a better way of course I prefer it.
You are speaking about traveling proximity switches, right?
Regards.
Nick.
Hi Clive S,Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
yes that is exactly the point.
Normally the current will not go past that, my 1mm2 will only carry power to 1 driver.
Until something goes wrong that is.
When a short happens on a transformer it is capable of more current.
It might smoke my 1mm2 panel wiring i believe.
But maybe the rectifier will blow out first.
In my line of work the secundary fuses also match the spec of the panel wiring.
So i think a secundary fuse might be a good idea.
While is was looking up data on my particular transformer, the datasheet mentions the precense a TCO in the primary windings... so transformer thermal overload is sorted.
Can't find any specific data on max fault current though..
Maybe it can be calculated ... not my field of expertise.
Grtz Bert.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c7bde2ac8.jpg
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I am going for this configuration because my previus cnc was wired like that, if there is a better way of course I prefer it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
You are speaking about traveling proximity switches, right?
Regards.
Nick.[/QUOTE]Hi Nick,
Ask/look around for the multi channel relay boards.
For the proximity switches.
You have the inputs for it... so why not [emoji41]
Grtz Bert.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
your panel wiring really must be able to handle the breaking current of whatever the protective device takes to blow, a slow blow fuse is ideal here, but the wire must be rated suitably - if too thin it will just melt.Quote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
One more add on my diagram.Relay and reset switch.
Attachment 24705
Finish this today!
No cnc relevant , but since I am a sissy as a friend from NY says:beguiled:, to start my wiring,(When someone has not pay a euro for components see it different,LOL), I build other things!
Attachment 24758Attachment 24759
Nice! What wood is used for the handle? :D
Been watching alot of YouTube vids about knifemaking so maybe I should give it a go aswell ..?
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Hi Robert.
The handle is made from root of Olive tree,those trees are very common here.
Do you watch the competition "Forged in Fire" also? ;-)
After some reading at old threads I place the last orders at Aliexpress for contactor, relays, slow blow fuses, power supplies etc.
I want to say a big thanks to routercnc and driftspin for the help they offer at the backstage, and all the other people of course that keep answering my silly questions! :)
Can’t remember what I did but you are welcome. Just passing it on . . .
I am thinking to place the parts that way in the control box,will it be any problem with the positioning of VFD?
If I remember correctly people puts shielede cables to the signal wires ,wires that goes to controllers, motors etc. right?
Attachment 25119
The manual for each device will tell you what spacing you need for cooling, follow that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
I personally prefer the VFD outside of the control box. The spacing on the drives are fine I tend to use cat3 twisted for the signal wires and CY 4 core for the motors the shield grounded to the star point at one end onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Thanks guys!
Clive CY4 core for the motors and parallel wiring for the motor's coils right?
Yes 1mm cable is ok. and parallel assuming you have 8 wire motors yesQuote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
8 wires of course,I forgot to mention it :stupid:
My layout is a mirror image of that because the VFD air inlet is on the left. I cut out a large hole in the side of the enclosure next to it to allow the air straight in to the VFD and the it exhausts out of a hole directly above it. That stops it drawing warm air from the enclosure.
I allowed 2 80mm fan sized holes in the base of the enclosure below the drivers but never added the fans as they barely get warm. Natural convection seems to work fine although we are in the UK so it does not get that hot.
Thanks routercnc.
I have in mind to use two fans on the bottom of the enclosure box to push air in there and a filter for the dust and two on the top.
The info about the hole near VFD is very good,I am going to use it!
This week a friend ask if I want one of those big PC tower for housing the electronics of the cnc, I said yes and he came with a box bigger than I could think!
Ι did some mods on the box...
Attachment 25211
Attachment 25212
Attachment 25213
Attachment 25214
Some more drills, screws, rivets and , here is the result!
Attachment 25215
Attachment 25216
Attachment 25217
Hey Nick,Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
I like it that you are making progress.
Keep up the good work.
Grtz Bert.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
Thanks Bert.
All components are here ,there is no excuse now to start the wirring,I must overcome the fear of burn something and move on.:redface:
Start 3d printing some cable organizers at different sizes for the electronic box, cant wait for Christmas vacations , so I have the time to start the wiring.
Attachment 25251
Attachment 25252
I have start my wiring, I am following Routercnc's schematic, since it is easier for me to understand.
The control panel is going to be like the one in the picture, I haven't put a water pump activation button for the water cooled spindle since it is going to be activated from the spindle start button.
Do I have to add another button? Is the ergonomic ok? Your thoughts please!
Attachment 25674
I use fusion 360 to design the panel and 3D print it with my anet A8.
Here is the finished project, not perfect but it will do the job.
Attachment 25696
Fail number one!
Attachment 25717
And the fail number two is that I make a hike for an e-stop and one for emergency stop...:stupid:
Fail quick / cheap. I do the same, at least printing it helps to see without machining the plate and finding the issue. I found drawing stuff in CAD helps too, cos you can then visualise issues like this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Yes that's true , at least to everyone else except me ,since I did the drawing and didn't realize the problem until now! Haha!
As you said it is a cheap fail, positive thinking ...that's what I like!
Can you not just turn the switch round so its running horizontally, nice idea with 3d printing the panel though, don't think i've seen anyone do that here yet :thumsup:
Surely the second hole for estop is for the big flashing lamp??Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Thanks Lee from time to time I have flashes of ingenuity! :topsy_turvy:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
That's a good idea about turning the switch horizontal!