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Server cabinets are cheap enough, the larger ones can't be given away sometimes. I have one dismantled in storage, deep enough to put a tool cabinet in the front and the control electronics in the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyUK
I built my control box in an old computer case, with the computer in another :-
Attachment 26740
It got a bit messy recently when I splashed it with a solution of black ABS, nothing like the mess when a spray can exploded on my garage:upset:
Cheers,
Rob-T
I've been wondering about how to retro-fit stall detection to deal with every 2-motors-on-one-axis-machine owners worst nightmare using DIY rotary encoders. So far I have a bag of 15 optical detectors (under $10AUD including delivery from RS), a nice Postcript file that Google found for me that will draw the encoder pattern and a piece of 0.25mm stainless shim. The plan is to use the 'toner transfer' method beloved of DIY circuit board builders to acid etch my own discs to fit onto my ballscrews and use an Arduino to detect when one axis moves and the other doesn't. You could always use this to detect lack of movement on any axis by comparing the encoder output with the step pulse input.Quote:
Originally Posted by diycnc
This is going to be one of those 'something to do while the varnish dries on my main activity' projects so don't hold your breath, but I will be reporting my success (if any) on the forum.
Kit
I noticed that. I think it's something my beloved CamBam software cannot do and might just be the last straw that kicks my a**e into gear and makes me put the effort into learning to use Fusion 360. I'm sure my machine is rigid enough, or it will be when I finally find a suppllier for the right sized Ally plates to convert my Z-axis from it's current plywood prototype assembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Got a new multimeter and I'm getting 33v from each secondary. Glad I didn't get a 35v transformer or I would be very close to the 80v max.
Attachment 26744
To wire this thing in series, am I correct in thinking I connect the yellow and black?
Attachment 26743
Also the drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing that because it AC it doesn't matter which way around it connected?
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by diycnc
The drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing thats because its AC it doesn't matter which way around its connected?
Does this also apply to the location of the fuse?
Yep often they are labeled R S but can put anyway around. I always connect live to R and Nuetral to SQuote:
Originally Posted by diycnc
Finally got around to putting some test electronics together, just need to connect the motor and flash grbl onto the arduino. Would be awesome if someone could take a look at my wiring befor I do anything too stupid. I'm a bit unsure about the earth at the moment. The negative enable, step, and pulse are all connected together and the ground pin on the arduino. And mains earth isn't connected to anything at the moment.
Once I have one tested and working, will test all three together.
Attachment 26770
Just spotting I have the fuse on the zero volt side of the psu!
If it were me I'd run the enable, pulse and dir. signals as twisted pairs - common the -ve ends up at the Arduino. This approach gives much cleaner waveforms and better resistance to interference.