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Estlcam :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
For my simple needs it feels really intuitive / basic.
Tried cambam some but it just messes with my mind.
For real simple dxf parts I've tried the included cam in uccnc with good results!
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Ok that surprises me because I've used Estlcam and the code is usually nice and clean. That thou is strange how it does 180 while ramping.:ambivalence:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
More than likely my fault :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
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New day and new questions :D
I fused my 24v psu with a 2A fuse.
But now that I think about it.. must be wrong?
The psu is 24v / 2A but thats on the secondary side.
Input is 50w so fuse should be around 0.25A.. correct?
My toroid is 500VA so without inrushcurrent 2.2A fuse should be enough? I fused 2.3A but that kept blowing every 5-7times I powered up. Exchanged for a 3A and now it seems okey but is it still protected?
I'm wanting to exchange to MCB type of fuses. Now I have 5x20 glassfuses. Not really easy to find MCB with these kind of ratings :)
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Re. 24V PSU - you're broadly correct - though personally I'd give it a little more headroom (rough rule-of-thumb is 125%) - probably 300mA, and with a power-supply then use an anti-surge or time-delay fuse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
For the toroidal transformer an anti-surge is a must, though I'd* even go as far as installing a NTC thermistor in series with the primary coil to limit the inrush current.
* wrong tense : I'm building up a PSU now for my next machine - NTC thermistors on order, SSRs on order - in the mistaken belief that zero-crossing would be a good thing - but a little googling reveals the role of the NTCs.
I was under the impression that I could get away with 500va without anti surge but 600va and larger was more of a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Can confirm that my entire shed blinks and hum for a sec when I power the toroid :D
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I have NTC on my transformer was a bitch to get the right one. I have no issues running it without NTC (Doesn't trip anything) but the real advantage for me is I can use a MCB type a if you use NTC for extra protection, remember I blew a transformer up already lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
We're 99% certain we plugged the bridge rectifier in back to front during testing but you're not using one are you?
I have a 1kva transformer 45v output (70v when rectified)
Why wouldn't you just use ready made inrush current limiter?
I am using Block ESG3 limiter with my 625VA transformer..works great.
For the 24V supply, a couple amp fuse should be fine. Some of the better supplies have recommended input fuse ratings, and from memory they're typically in the 1-2A range.
The thing with switch mode supplies, is due to their inherent design/failure modes, the smallest possible fuse is unlikely to prevent damage to the supply. Any reasonable quality supply will have the output overload protected anyway, plus they also cause a surge on power up, so too small fuse is more likely to cause more problems than it will prevent. The fuse is only their to prevent fires should something short out internally, by which time the supply is dead anyway.
I wouldn't personally bother with any anti-surge on a toiroid that size, unless it's causing problems. Toiroids are however where correct size fusing is the difference between just blowing a fuse, or melting the toiroid should you overload it.
If I did want to add some anti-surge, I'd fit a NTC thermistor, and parallel it with a relay that bypasses the thermistor after a couple seconds. The problem with just a thermistor on it's own, is it relies on current passing through it to keep it warm and resistance low, so when everything is sitting idle, it can cause the voltage to drop.
The problem with thermistors on their own, is if you use too large a one, the voltage drop will be larger, and if you use too small a one, you risk burning it out under heavy load.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkkmobile
£87.28, from RS-Components (UK). That's why.
Aah much to think about.. as usual ;)
Will skip the termistor for the moment and keep my 2A fuse.. thanks for explaining the fire pitch. Actually read that fuses for small psu.s are redundant but this seemed logical and cleared that up for me..
On another note.
Vcarved my children's names inside some heart graffics.. do you all think the wife will think better of the router now? :D
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Had a small disaster, quick solution and some great progress.
https://image.ibb.co/jhSjux/20180404_183623.jpg
Nipple broke!
Found a new one from a Swedish cnc part store :D Will be here tomorrow or Tuesday. Was set to wait for chinadelivery 4-6weeks ;)
Sometimes it just works out.
Borrowed a friend's laptop with vectrics aspire installed.
What a difference!
If I ever use my router to make money I will buy vectric stuff and stop trying the free cam programs I've been testing so far :)
Well truth to be told I have not tried fusions cam yet.. that might be even better?
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IF you have any troubles let me know because I remove these and fit Pushfit connectors so I have lots spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Ah thanks for the offer! I'm hoping the right part arrives tomorrow ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
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Aspire is very good, I love it.
Horses for courses - I have Aspire and also use Fusion which is great but steep learning curve.
Fusion is free as well for small users.
Steep learning curve sounds like something in the future when I understand everything a little more :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
But it might be a good idea to download it while it's still free :D
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I've generated all my gcode in fusion so far it's not that bad, I wouldn't say it was harsh I'm managed to generate working code with it lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Like everything in cnc you have to take a step back sometimes to absorb it all but once it gets in it's not that complicated after all and you wonder what you were worried about.
You tube has some good getting started with cam on Fusion 360 videos, you don't need to know how to model in fusion to use the cam but it does simplify things.
Generally I just pick a tool, pick a tool path click some setting and press enter lol and it seems to work ;)
Yes its not really hard to learn, just that its so powerful, most users will likely only ever need to learn 10% of the functionality :)
I knew nothing about 3d and after about 3m of messing about in the evenings I can now generate 3d items and CAM them successfully then machine them, its very satisfying.
Its not something you can "download" as such - it is an app BUT its all cloud based when running, you can work offline for 4 weeks i think then it must connect and sync or it will not run any more. Is free for small users, just have to sign up each year, takes seconds.
Once there is possibility for play there is no work getting done :)
Have had some issues with cuts. Thought the spindle needed serious tramming but in the end I think I located the error. My 36mm plywood spoilboard is flexing!!
Have only fastened it to the machine frame at 8 points. 4 screws at each side.
Seems like I have to counterbore some screws in the middle aswell :)
Did not think the routerbits would have that much "pull strenght" that it had!
Back to the drawingboard......
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I made my bed captive (It sits inside my frame) for this very reason but then the pressure is on you to cut the mdf perfectly otherwise it will still wobble, I think I got it right as I ended up having to tap all 4 corners with a wooden mallet to get it to sit flat. I'm also not using the bed for clamping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
I have 18mm mdf then 6mm on top which is my spoil board. I made aluminium clamps from 2020 Tslot and they flex like hell totally useless like yourself I underestimated the forces involved and have had to remake all my clamps in steel and £35 wasted at KJN. Under the MDF I have 4545 Tslot supports, every 12cm I think it works out to.
Wait till you start cutting at 8m/min and you'll see the forces involved lol, my floor concrete workshop floor rumbles when it's running, even lorries don't make the floor do that lol.
I have not tried speeds like that yet.. 5000mm/min is max right now.. you might think I would be curious about testing max speed but it just scares me :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
Have to find some nice t tracks, right now Im screwing everything to the spoilboard. Doesn't feel right!
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If you put T slots on your CNC bed you can make the hold down clamps your own ,there are some good video on youtube.I will try to find the one that help make mine and post it here.
Thanks! Have already made CAD and cam of "toe clamps"Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
What type do you prefer?
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wKiPfaA2oZY
I have use those,cheap and easy,I made them from a thick plastic kitchen cutting board,lol.
Camel toe.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Sorry couldn't resist ;)
Thanks Nick!
They are similar to the ones I want to cut..
Just have to find some t tracks first :D
Amazon has some but not with shipping to Sweden for the long stuff :)
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I don't know how much clamping force there is in a cameltoe.. might be overwhelming?Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
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An Essex girl has the highest clamping force known to man ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Hmm not really machine related.. but how should I finish the oak lid on this piece?
Had to make a copy of vectric free paradise box :)
Should I oil the lid? With what oil?
Or stain?
Or varnish? :)
https://image.ibb.co/i8qBmx/20180423_133134.jpg
Really should get back to finishing the machine :)
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You can find at gun shops a product that is called Tru Oil, actually it is not an oil, it is varnish.
They apply it at the wood parts of the guns to protect them from cracking after continuous use near water, I am talking for hunting guns of course and not those AK-47 Kalashnikov:witless:
You apply the product with a rag , one hand every two or three hours, easy to use and when it is hardened it gives a nice yellowish color to the wood.
https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Oil-Stock.../dp/B00FSVM06S
The other option is clear varnish in a spray can...
I know.. I know!
Should finish the machine but playing is sooo fun :D
Made another free vectric project ;)
https://image.ibb.co/eUu3B7/20180509_132207.jpg
Turned out real nice!
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Coming on nicely, bet it's satisfying to see it doing it's thing. I can't show the stuff I made lol, I'm political and politics has no place in these forums.
Why do I think the worst when somebody hides behind politic :D
Have to make a dustshoe!
This has to be my next project!
My shop vac is so loud that I won't be able to stand by the machine as it runs but why would I want to really?
Maybe should invest in something more quite...
If using a cyclone to catch most dust is a home vac even something to think about or is it to weak ?
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Wow nice!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Now I am curious to see....:peaceful:Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
All politicians are bastards so you're wise to think the worst lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
I bought a dust shoe on ebay £20 on Clive S advice and a cyclone for £10 works well with a 1000w vacuum cleaner.
I saw clives tip about the dustshoe and I was tempted.. the shipping cost to Sweden was not nice so I have to try my own design :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
Thanks Nick!
Can't take much credit as it's a free project ;)
You did make the machine which is actually the important bit here ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Woohoo I like your thinking :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
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