Noga Deburring Tools UK Seller on ebay cheap !

Dont know if anyone else use's these or has seen them before, I have on both counts and they work really well.

Mrs Roberts has just ordered me some new ones as stocking fillers...yes I have my own stocking at christmas - dont you ?

This is the best deal:

1pc NOGA NB1100 Deburring Tool With 10 Blades (BS1010) UK Seller

There is also a smaller one that fits in a shop apron with front pockets nicely:

Deburring Tool Noga EO2000 UK Seller

Noga do a full range of deburring tools, they can get a bit pricey but if your doing allot of manual machining or metal work every day, these can be a real time saver.

Tom at Oxtools turned me on to these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0by2RTOlAg

I've asked Santa for the Multi Burr, will have to see what he brings lol !

http://www.noga.com/deu/

If you dont mind waiting for China post then they are cheaper again:

NOGA NB1100 Burr Handle With 10pc BS1010 Blades Hand Deburring Tool

Good Call Lee!
They're a fantastic tool once you get the hang of them,

- Nick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lee Roberts

Mrs Roberts has just ordered me some new ones as stocking fillers...yes I have my own stocking at christmas - dont you ?

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No I wear tights ! There are three phases to a man's life -Believing in Santa - Not believing in Santa - Being Santa.

Seriously, I have a problem with drilling a 2mm thick aluminium plate* with 400 holes 3mm dia. The damn thing comes out like a cheese grater, with the top edge of the hole having a sharp raised lip. A bit of coolant cuts down the problem, but I don't know to get rid of this edge lift or burring. The only solutions I can think of, at the moment, are to slow the drill speed down -or- to redo the process but with a 90 degree chamfer bit, drilling to an appropriate depth i.e. 2.1mm, but that is going to add to the time to do these 20 plates and I certainly ain't deburring them by hand.

Any suggestions ?

* the ali plate is probably as soft as poodle poo, I don't know what grade it is.

Cheers,

Rob

BTW Lee - if this could go in a better thread or needs to be a new topic - please shift it. Ta - R.

Rob, if the surface finish isn't critical, then some form of linisher should work. Even a flap wheel in a drill, or flap disc in an angle grinder, but you need to makes sure you clean it if it clogs otherwise you'll just be rubbing aluminium with aluminium.

I hate working with generic sheet aluminium, as it's akin to working with butter.

I have the Noga with the 10 blades and it works like a charm. Having in mind the Eclipse where only one blade is approximately the price of the whole set here. Which for obvious reason i dont use now

Thanks for that Lee
£3.71 seems like a bargain to me.
Regards
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mekanik

Thanks for that Lee
£3.71 seems like a bargain to me.
Regards
Mike

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I bought 3 of these a year ago for an offer of £8, can't have too many :cheerful:


I have several including, scrapers and hole deburrers, some are quite old, use them all the time.

[QUOTE=cropwell;85406
Any suggestions ?

* the ali plate is probably as soft as poodle poo, I don't know what grade it is.

[/QUOTE]

Pic of it would help but you have probably answered your own question. Soooooo many times i see you guys posting about ally cutting problems and nearly all of the problems are because you do not use grades that are machinable. Use the correct grades that ARE machinable. if you don't you will always have these continuing problems of one sort or another.

Countersink with a very crispy sharp countersink, if the bur is peeling up on one side then you will have a problem of the burr shoving the csk offset and it will be hard to get a neat csk. If the burr is uniform then it should be ok. With very soft materials like this the tendency is to shove the material out of the way as apposed to cutting which itself gives problems even when countersinking because the edge of the hole can not resist the cutting force and the burr wont shear and therefore can also push that burr partially in the hole. It may be an idea to do as mentioned and try a rubbing block to get most of the bur off as possible then csk the hole.

The right material again will save you all this nonsense you are experiencing.

Ive had one of these type of tools for a while now and they are excellent.

I can definitely help here but have to be later tonight, off out now but soft alloy can be thru drilled without a burr on either side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spluppit

The right material again will save you all this nonsense you are experiencing.

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The sheet is 1050, I know it is not machineable really, but I can't find 6082 in 2mm sheet at a reasonable price. If you can recommend me a supplier who will guillotine me 20 sheets 100x150x2mm and deliver for less than £30, please let me know.

Ta.

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cropwell

No I wear tights ! There are three phases to a man's life -Believing in Santa - Not believing in Santa - Being Santa.

Seriously, I have a problem with drilling a 2mm thick aluminium plate* with 400 holes 3mm dia. The damn thing comes out like a cheese grater, with the top edge of the hole having a sharp raised lip. A bit of coolant cuts down the problem, but I don't know to get rid of this edge lift or burring. The only solutions I can think of, at the moment, are to slow the drill speed down -or- to redo the process but with a 90 degree chamfer bit, drilling to an appropriate depth i.e. 2.1mm, but that is going to add to the time to do these 20 plates and I certainly ain't deburring them by hand.

Any suggestions ?

* the ali plate is probably as soft as poodle poo, I don't know what grade it is.

Cheers,

Rob

BTW Lee - if this could go in a better thread or needs to be a new topic - please shift it. Ta - R.

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Being Santa, a 7 and 10 year old - both girls....sorry!? lol

I've had the same problem, I'm actually after a countersink/chamfering bit recommendation please if anyone has got one to give.

I end up using a drill bit way bigger than the hole, just give it a quick turn by hand, works quite well on smaller holes, tried a few off ebay all seem to be crap, blunt or for wood.

Was thinking of adding a "Hand Tool" section to the forums so could split it, Metal Finishing Techniques may be a better place for your question though.

Hi Rob
If i have to drill plate, i don't use a standard grind drill. i grind the size required flat bottom, then relieve it to leave a point in the centre(like a wood drill) this trapanes the hole and breaks through relatively clean, a bit off pecking might help.
regards
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mekanik

Hi Rob
If i have to drill plate, i don't use a standard grind drill. i grind the size required flat bottom, then relieve it to leave a point in the centre(like a wood drill) this trapanes the hole and breaks through relatively clean, a bit off pecking might help.
regards
Mike

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I haven't got the skill or patience to do regrinding of small drills !

What I am using is a 3.05 carbide drill from this guy http://www.circuit2u.co.uk/epages/63...rill%20Bits%22 He supplies 1st regrind bits at a good price. I am pecking the hole, but am going to play around with the peck and spindle speeds to see what happens.

Cheers,

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lee Roberts

I end up using a drill bit way bigger than the hole, just give it a quick turn by hand, works quite well on smaller holes, tried a few off ebay all seem to be crap, blunt or for wood.

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380 holes per piece ! and 20 pieces to do ! sod hand chamfering for a game of soldiers ! I'd end up screaming barmy (nearly there anyway). Here's the dxf, so you can see what I mean Attachment 19714

Cheers,

Rob

Rob
If you have a compressor you try a soft abrasive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECOSTRIP-C...K3a1K2gRapthiA i use this for cleaning Spilka hinges when doing refurb. it might remove the sharp edges.
Mike