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My Chinese 6040 has tb6560 stepper drivers and is missing steps so I’ve purchased the tb6600 drivers to replace them, I’ve managed to connect the motors but the 3 wires coming from the Bob I’m not sure about if someone could put me right please, Thankyou, regards Mike.
Starter for 10...
On the BOB you look to have +5V, CLK and CW. So, I'm making an assumption that the BoB is designed to switch active low (it presents a 0V, with reference to the provided +5V to indicate a signal). The TB6600 allows this easily enough.
I'd take the +5V and connect this to the DIR+ and PUL+ terminals on the TB6600.
Take the CLK signal (I assume CLK = Clock = Step) and connect to the PUL- terminal on the TB6600.
Take the CW signal (I assume CW = Clockwise = Direction) and connect to the DIR- terminal on the TB6600.
You won't break anything (much) if the assumptions about CLK/CW are incorrect - you'll just find the stepper takes a single step on change of direction, and nothing else.
You could still find that you have a problem with missing steps... what makes you think the TB6600 is quicker than the TB6560? If you're using Mach3 then I'd look on your motor tuning page and try upping the step-pulse duration if it's less than 5uS.
I wonder what your settings are in the softwares 'motor tuning' pages?
Hi, thanks for your help, the controller was originally set up by Jazzcnc and he noted a live & neutral were crossed on the Z driver, he corrected it and got it running for me, while using the router on a job it would miss steps on the z axis so I replaced the driver and it is not missing steps on the Z axis anymore but is on the X axis so I thought I would change them all and am told the TB6600 is marginally better.
Hi Doddy, I wired as you said and it does move only one step then the motor starts screaming, I tried stopping the CLK & CW wires over but didn’t work, I don’t know if I have the dip switch’s set correctly.Attachment 28018
"stopping" = "swapping", and I guess from you images you mean your switches are set to ON/ON/OFF/ON/ON/OFF - 200ppr and 1.5Arms - feels quite "okay" ish. for a small sized motor.
What do you mean "screaming" - that sounds quite alarming however it also suggests that you have a tone associated with a pulsed signal(?, I'm trying to guess a lot here). Does the "screaming" only occur when trying to move an axis?, or when the motor is at rest?
Are you able to decouple the motor from the screw?, to understand if the noise is due to a stalled motor? - just enough to allow the motor to spin freely when not driving the axis.
Can you provide a photo with all wiring to the driver
i managed to stop it screaming by changing the dip switches to on on off off on off very quiet and smooth but very slow, the Z axis will only move downward, i checked the motor wiring and its fine so assuming it the dip switch settings, i know on the TB6560 the dip switches on the Z axis were set differently to the other axis, at the moment i have them set the same, hope this explains it better, regards mike.
So you've up'd the current significantly - probably was a stalled motor. But 3A is quite high unless you've got large motors. Can you provide any details from any visible label on the motor? (or a photo)
I expect when you compare the DIP switch settings you're comparing the interpretation of the switches, and not just the switch positions? (chances are the meaning of the switch positions will be different between the two modules).
Slow?, that's strange - you have the stepper set to 200 steps (i.e. no micro-steps). Normally people configure the driver to around 800 steps/rev but that would make the axis even slower (4 times slower). When you read the switch positions you are reading from 1 through 6 (and not the other way around?) Have you changed any motor setting in the control software (Mach 3?)
Good morning Doddy, I not sure what I’m doing with the dip switch’s as the old driver had 7 switch’s and the new one has 6, I’ve not made any changes to the setting in Mach 3.Attachment 28027Attachment 28028Attachment 28029Attachment 28030
thank you for your help Doddy, i now have all drivers set up and working well, i managed to cut George & Dragon at 15mm depth in French Oak to push it and it never missed a step, Regards MikeAttachment 28042
You're welcome - that's a pretty good engraving (is that the phrase here?)
Thankyou, I’m well happy with that, I’m only using cheap bits until I can get better ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Looks great!!. What size/type of cutter did you use?
4mm endmill & 2mm tapered ball nose 15mm depth