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Hello everyone,
Im looking at buying a vertical bandsaw for occasional use that could cut aluminium plate of a thickness of around 6 mm. Can anyone recommend one that they use? Most of the machines on Amazon etc are for cutting wood so are there any considerations about choosing one to cut aluminium such as blade length / band saw wheels diameter?
Regards Chris
I have a fox f28-191a bandsaw and I cut aluminium on it. have cut up to 3/4". I think the most important think is a very good blade and as much rigidity as possible. I use m42 bi metal bandsaw blades from tuffsaws.co.uk thefinest pitch I can get for the blade size. They aren't the cheapest blades, but they work very well and last a long time. Also take your time cutting, let the blasde do the work and don't push it or in wont cut anywhere near straight
I have a basato 3 bandsaw and often cut aluminum from 2 - 50 mm thk without any problems. I use an M42 blade 1/2" x 4tpi, it has been in the m/c for a few years, I am not a fan of fine pitch blades for aluminum, but do use a fine pitch if cutting thin steel sheet
I got a Femi SN105XL metal bandsaws recently, converts from horizontal to vertical pretty easily. Very happy with it, cuts clean and accurate. Very light and space saving too which is ideal for a hobbyist like me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGg-jCJ2p1U
Completely ignoring your question re. vertical bandsaws, I bought a second hand 4x6 bandsaw, that spends as much time in the vertical position as the horizontal position. Originally bought to quickly cut bar stock (a hell of a lot bigger than your 6mm Ali) (and box section) accurately, even trimming some 10mm steel plate left over from the welding bench - I've realised that within the limits of the throat (and these are very real limits!) that it's incredibly useful. Thin sheet I'll throw on the welding bench and use a jigsaw, but for anything that fits the 4x6 that is the tool of choice. A 10/14tpi blade will happily cut 1mm fibreglass copper-clad board, as well - bonus (and yes, I've used it to trim Vero board to size).
I'd love something with a deeper throat (!) but one of the best-bangs(!?!) per buck.
How square do you find it cuts please? I've been thinking of buying something similar for a while, albeit maybe a tad larger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Bear in mind this is an old, old, model, salvaged from some barn find and resold through a local auction house - it wasn't perfect out of the box, so to speak. I have tweaked the blade guides (info on youtube) and got it moderately square. That means I will most likely face a bar in the lathe afterwards, but if I'm cutting say a 10" plate, and I have to go at it twice (from each side) to get through the throat, then the cut will meet in the middle. Not brilliant, but this isn't a finishing machine.
Plenty of mods online to make them altogether more useful, and I've adapted the stand on mine to avoid swarf collection and to provide a useful store for the blades, vertical table, etc.
One complaint - the stand - the saw sits top-heavy so you have to be a bit careful lugging it about. And on mine the push-on, push-off buttons attract man-glitter like no-ones business so the Off-button is often depressed (I really should fix that!), but it's a workhorse for me. Mind you, I have little bench space so it suits my purpose well.
I think I paid £100 for it, that to me is a useful price for a decent tool.
I have a similar 6 x 4 and they are probably some the most common saws available . I too used mine a lot in the vertical with a small table added on to the guide. great for cutting bar but I found it limited when cutting sheets as anything wider than about 90mm wouldnt go "through "
I found a Sealey "Woodworker" bandsaw which does about 350mm for a princely £160 but then could not find blades 2350 long.
You can get them made though for not a lot.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Wo...72.m2749.l2649
Axminster stock ready-made blades that would fit - e.g. these
Don't woodworking bandsaws run too fast for metal?... there was one model, that I completely forget, that had a 1/2 speed gearing that a number of metal workers did recommend. Mind you - if it works for you then go for it - the throat on a 6x4 is very limiting for sheet/plate work.
With care, it seems that you can use woodworking power tools for aluminium. Certainly folks on this forum have used handheld routers to work Al. I've used my workworking bandsaw for Al as well - was a bit worried at first but take it easy with a suitable blade and it works OK.
Axminsters best 10 tpi blade would not be great for aluminium.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Mine is 18 tpi , but would have preferred 24.
The old Sealey is intended for both and has speed change pulleys . Works superbly on 3,5, 6, and 8 mm plate . Havent tried on 10 yet but I would tend to buy that as slab and use the 6x4 for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Has anyone found it puzzling how to get the teeth to cut downward on some saws
I've got one of these primarily for wood but I have cut 12mm aluminium with it using the ordinary wood blade and was happy with the results. A dedicated metal blade would obviously be better and it does have pulleys for two speeds.
Obviously this particular machine would incur significant delivery costs for you but there must be a Pommie equivalent available.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W952
Mine has actually cut chinese glass scales down to size
(but that probably would not be covered by the instructions) :thumsup:
I have a Proxxon bandsaw that I use for model engineering. I do not use aluminium but I have used the Proxxon to cut 1/2" brass and mild steel flat bar. I have the blades made locally with 14TPI but the company would make them with any standard number of teeth. I use bimetal blades.
Brian
I bought an old 14" Startrite for £130, it has 5 pulley speeds and a two speed gearbox, so 10 in total. It's a heavy thing which pays when cutting aluminium and steel. I've re-sawn ash and oak up to 11" thick, very slowly.
Only downside is that it needs an inverter as it's 3 phase.