Rebuilding a Warwick 3.5 x 18" (Also known as Grayson, Granville, Randa) Help Wanted

Hi everyone, I've finally got my hands on a lathe after years of wanting one.

It's only a small one but has screw cutting capabilities.

The last time I used a lathe was about 16 years ago :joyous:

Can anyone help with telling me what I need to do to fix the cross slide? It has a gib? for the bottom slide with the slots in. How does the gib stay in position?

The oversized screw was made by the previous owner with intentions on making a handle for it. I also need the brass nut which the screw works with to move the tool holder base (sorry for the lack of proper terminology)

The tailstock isn't original but has been machined to fit, the previous owner did this and assures me it's all lined up correctly. I don't have a tailstock centre to check it.

Attachment 28598
Attachment 28599
Attachment 28600
Attachment 28601
Attachment 28602
Attachment 28603

You need to find where the grub screws in the cross slide would adjust the gib strip - I can see two likely suspects in the first image, but normally there's more. I'd look on the tail-stop side of the cross slide - many bits on that lathe look similar to a ML7, and that's where the gib screws are on the ML7.

On my ML7 I *think* (too wet to go check) there're 6 holes - three to locate the gib and three to tighten the gib, fairly evenly spaced along the length of the dovetail. There's generally dimples machined into the mating face of the gib strip that the locating grub screws screwed into the cross slide fit into to stop the gib sliding about, and then the main adjusting grub screws then apply pressure onto the gib strip to mate to the face on the dovetail. If you look on the top slide you can see 4 grub screws to adjust the (shorter) gib for the top-slide.

That same image - the gib strip just looks like there's no locating dimples in it - that might be a decision that you have to take whether to sanction adapting the gib strip to allow the locating holes for the gib screws.

Hi Scott
Have a little look at this
https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...a&action=click
what you need to determin is the diameter and pitch/form of the thread, this is a left hand hand thread. The jib strip for the Cross slide will probably be the same arrangement as the topslide the small screws adjust the clearance between the components and are then locked when you have the slide moving with minimum clearance. The Tailstock is almost identical to my Elliot Emcomat 7. you can buy leadscrews and matching nuts(do a web search to see if anything is suitable) also you can get lefthand taps on the bay of fleas. you will need to make a bearing holder for the handle end of the cross slide that will attach to the cross slide(There should be a couple of drilled and tapped holes already located on same)
Regards
Mike
Doddy beat me to it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by scott88

The oversized screw was made by the previous owner with intentions on making a handle for it. I also need the brass nut which the screw works with to move the tool holder base (sorry for the lack of proper terminology)

---

The analogy to the ML7 - the screw would fit into a bracket on the face of the cross slide - you can see two bolt holes on the front face of the cross-slide, which would then interface to a brass nut inserted into the saddle (the bit that straddles the ways... which the tailstock sits on)

Have a look at https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/info%5f686%2ehtml for an example

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mekanik

you can buy leadscrews and matching nuts(do a web search to see if anything is suitable) also you can get lefthand taps on the bay of fleas. you will need to make a bearing holder for the handle end of the cross slide that will attach to the saddle(There should be a couple of drilled and tapped holes already located on same)
Regards
Mike

---

Agreed - almost certainly easier to source a pre-made leadscrew and matching nut, than to retrospectively match a home-made screw. Your lathe looks almost as though it shares parts - through design or by accident with the Myford... easy source, though stupidly priced.

Thanks fellas.

I did wonder if the gib should have dimples to keep it from moving, I could add some with a rotary tool I suppose. I'll need a shorter gib for the top slide.

Good to know it's so similar to a Myford, although as you say, their parts are pricey :D

I'll do some googling and see what I come up with.

If only I had a working lathe I could make my own parts....

Thanks again

Comparing mine to the Myford, it seems like mine doesn't have the brass nut. It seems like the screw id threaded directly into the slide (the circled part of the picture)

Attachment 28608

I've found this part on the Myford site, do you like it would fit, if not I'm sure it could be adapted.
https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/ML7-1545454455.html

Does anyone have a chart for the gearing? Maybe that too is the same as a Myford, I'll google it.

Re. will it fit?, that all depends on the measurements on the saddle/cross slide. If you look at the CNC conversion of an ML7... http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/ml7-c...fordcncpt1.htm you might be able to derive the Myford sizes. Or might offer an alternative making your own to sourcing from Myford.

Well found, the hole spacing is 2.65" :)

I'll check if it'll fit tomorrow.

my only concern is the sensibility of a threaded component in the cast iron of the saddle, from a wear and friction perspective. If it wears, you can always rebore it and insert a brass nut.

Also, check the spindle - you look to be missing two oilers - run it short-term with a squirt of oil into the bores for the oilers but you need to think of a long term solution.

re Jib strip, mine has slots about 1mm deep aligning with the screws, i drilled and reamed an 1/8" hole and fit a silver steel dowel

Good news, the mounting holes are the same width. I'll order that part and the ones that go with it. I think I'll drill out the hole and mount the brass nut, it's strange how the warwick didn't use the same setup.

I actually have 2 new oilers, just not in the pic.

Today looks like a nice day to strip the whole thing down and give it a good clean, I'm going to film it so I'll be able to put it back together :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mekanik

The Tailstock is almost identical to my Elliot Emcomat 7

---

Hi Mike, is your tailstock MT2? That's what the bloke said it was when I bought it, I'm going to order a chuck so thought I'd double check.

Yes MT2
You will probably want a rotating centre also, plus some micrometers if you don't already have them,and a set of imperial and metric thread gauges and a Zeus book.
REgards
Mike

Random thought.

Where's the screw for the top slide?, and do you have to consider this when cutting the long screw (i.e. is it intended for both top and cross slides?) You also don't appear to have the nut for the top slide.

If you're sensitive to such things, you're at a point where you are pretty uncommitted to the end-game here, you could decide now whether to make the top/cross slides imperial or metric.

... and yes, warm sunday afternoons are perfect for stripping down a lathe :-)

EDIT: Ah. think I spot your top slide screw on the bottom of pic 4?

BTW, the more I look at this, and the pictures of Warwicks, the more I'm absolutely convinced you have a ML7 Cross/Top slide assembly.

EDIT 2: Musing.... I wonder if the previous owner started making the cross slide screw as the interface between the Warwick saddle and the Myford cross-slide... and the length of the screw on the bottom of image 4 looks more like the original myford cross-slide screw.... Up to the OP of course but I'd be looking at the possibility of retro-fitting a Myford nut into the hole in the Warwick saddle and re-instating the myford screw for the cross slide.

Doddy, yes the top slide screw is present. I think you maybe right about it being a myford cross slide too.

I'm going to order some parts for the Myford and see how I get on.

I didn't manage to strip anything today, I'm half way through decorating the bedroom and I didn't think I'd get away with 'non'essential tinkering' :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mekanik

re Jib strip, mine has slots about 1mm deep aligning with the screws, i drilled and reamed an 1/8" hole and fit a silver steel dowel

---

Best way to fit a gib strip. Otherwise you get a "wedging" action between the end of the adjusting screw and the dimple it fits in which makes it a bit more difficult to adjust to that "silky with no slop" fit. The dowel stops sideways movement. At least it's an easy thing to do!