Bit of a flood ! And a couple of questions.

Hello

I have not been on here much for a while ( largely because my machine has been working very well ).

However I discovered yesterday that i have had a burst pipe in my workshop upstairs which has of course made its way through to the downstairs...

Hence this !
Attachment 29332 Attachment 29333

Excuse the general disatrous shape of the workshop I had just abandonned ship and then started moving stuff when I discovered the flood.
Attachment 29331
Can`t seem to rotate images but you get the idea.

It could have been leaking for a few days, the guy in the next unit called to tell me because it was going into his side otherwise I wouldn`t have noticed till today.

So, of course, there is going to need to be a bit of a rebuild situation to say the least.
The top is bending like a banana, I have no idea if any of the electronics or the PC will work though some bits have escaped full monsoon (drying the PC out in front of the fire right now).

I am thinking now may be the time to sort out a few things I have not had the opportunity to do previously.

Firstly, I have two noisy bearings and so will replace the bk/bf blocks, the ballscrews are 25mm but turned down to 15mm at the fixed end and 15mm ( threaded part ) then 12m by the coupler. So it looks like I need BK15 and BF15 blocks, is this correct ?

While I was looking at it I thought maybe replace the ballnut as I have to take it apart quite a bit anyway but I can see no markings at all on the part and I wonder how to make sure to get the right ones regarding pitch etc.

This is it

Attachment 29328

I put a ruler on it but not sure exactly where to measure to and from.

Attachment 29329

Any ideas ?

Secondly, I plan to do drag chains and redo the wiring and add back in the limit switches I removed.
I would like to use some kind of connectors at either end, at the moment everything is chocolate blocks or just wired straight in.
I like the type of thing found in car connections like the deutsch connectors or that kind of thing. I know its not strictly needed but would make it easier for future maintanance is there a go to connector for this.

Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

http://shop.cncdrive.com/index.php?productID=1090

Does it represent good value, (assuming I can actually get one shipped here after the stupidity of brexit )?

I am not particularly good at electronics but think I could probably do a similar setup myself but it would take me ages and I would be worried about cocking it up, unless I had very thorough instructions to follow.
Any alternatives.?

Thanks

Ollie

I used these to connect my controller to the machine.

https://jh-electronics-sourcing.com/...pg.640x640.jpg

I understand they will handle up to 120 volts and can be had with quite a range of pins from 2 to 10.I didn't find them the easiest of things to solder cables to,but it can be done.Seek out GX16 aircraft plugs for more information.

Cheers routerdriver thats a great start.

Was hoping to avoid soldering, I guess I could have a crack at it.

Been using these around the house https://www.wago.com/gb/electrical-i...connectors/221
Very easy to attach.

Ollie

Quote:

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Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

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I believe that Dean Jazzcnc is stocking these now up in PG tips country

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

Firstly, I have two noisy bearings and so will replace the bk/bf blocks, the ballscrews are 25mm but turned down to 15mm at the fixed end and 15mm ( threaded part ) then 12m by the coupler. So it looks like I need BK15 and BF15 blocks, is this correct ?

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Yes that's correct, 15mm is the ID of the bearing and usually with M15 x 1 thread with coupler portion being 12mm OD.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

While I was looking at it I thought maybe replace the ballnut as I have to take it apart quite a bit anyway but I can see no markings at all on the part and I wonder how to make sure to get the right ones regarding pitch etc.

I put a ruler on it but not sure exactly where to measure to and from.

Any ideas ?

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First putting a ruler against alone won't always tell you the pitch because it could be a multistart thread. So for instance while the distance between threads is say 5mm which is what yours looks like, there could be 2 starts (threads) so this is double making it 10mm pitch. If you look at the end you'll see if there are two separate threads.

Now if you didn't have any backlash then I wouldn't go trying to swap the nut for a different one because if it's a Chinese ballscrew, which it looks like it is, then you might struggle to find one that matches and end up with more backlash.
If it's not worn then I would just strip it, clean and re-grease, if it's got a little backlash you could try fitting new balls or a couple of oversize balls to preload it a little.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

Secondly, I plan to do drag chains and redo the wiring and add back in the limit switches I removed.
I would like to use some kind of connectors at either end, at the moment everything is chocolate blocks or just wired straight in.
I like the type of thing found in car connections like the deutsch connectors or that kind of thing. I know its not strictly needed but would make it easier for future maintanance is there a go to connector for this.

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Aviation connectros are the most commonly used but they are fiddly things to solder and easily got wrong. I've seen many drives blown up because of poor connections shorting on the sides.
Like you say they are convinient for removing at later date or moving the machine around but they also open up a potential problem area as they get old and strained.
I fit them them on machines I build when required, for instance when access is poor and control box or machine as to be taken in separate pieces, but if I'm honest I'm not a fan and always try to avoid them if possible as it just introduces a potential problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

Does it represent good value, (assuming I can actually get one shipped here after the stupidity of brexit )?

I am not particularly good at electronics but think I could probably do a similar setup myself but it would take me ages and I would be worried about cocking it up, unless I had very thorough instructions to follow.
Any alternatives.?

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As it happens I can help you here if you want a box building and I'm just about to build the exact same thing for someone.
I now stock CNC Drive components and have both the AXBB-E and UC300 in stock along with wireless pendants and tool touch off plates.
I also stock energy chain and other components like Water cooled Spindles, Closed loop stepper sets, etc, that I fit to machines I build. I don't normally stock BK15 bearings but as it happens I do have a couple of sets that I ordered for a job but never used so can help you out there as well.

Drop me a PM if you decide you'd rather have a box built than DIY or if you need any components I stock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routerdriver

I used these to connect my controller to the machine.

https://jh-electronics-sourcing.com/...pg.640x640.jpg

I understand they will handle up to 120 volts and can be had with quite a range of pins from 2 to 10.I didn't find them the easiest of things to solder cables to,but it can be done.Seek out GX16 aircraft plugs for more information.

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I ended up using GX20 connectors - not quite so easy to find, but very similar and they have a bit bigger cable inlet size, which I found useful when using screened (CY) cable. And I've got to that point in life when I'm fed up with anything fiddly! Next time it might even be GX25's - or dip into my pocket and get some Amphenols.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

I believe that Dean Jazzcnc is stocking these now up in PG tips country

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Give up man, no self-respecting Yorkshireman would dunk is Hobknob in that pig piss, it's Yorkshire tea or nothing.

Thanks everyone.

Jazzcnc, first I must agree that Yorkshire tea is the only proper tea, and I am a southerner too.

Good to know that I measured the ends of the ballscrews right at least.

With the ballnuts, I don`t think I have actually been having any problems with backlash and I am pretty sure the clicky noise is coming from the BK blocks particularly on the Y axis. I am only butchering wood with it at the moment.
So perhaps I will leave them alone, I was just thinking of doing it because I will be doing the ends anyway. I have a vison of loosing many tiny ballbearings over the floor if I try to dismantle them.

I will send you a PM.

Thanks

Ollie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

With the ballnuts, I don`t think I have actually been having any problems with backlash and I am pretty sure the clicky noise is coming from the BK blocks particularly on the Y axis. I am only butchering wood with it at the moment.
So perhaps I will leave them alone, I was just thinking of doing it because I will be doing the ends anyway. I have a vison of loosing many tiny ballbearings over the floor if I try to dismantle them.

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In that case, then leave them alone and just grease the nut.

However, if you do decide to remove the ball-nut don't just unwind it from the screw otherwise you will dump the balls all over the floor. The correct way is to make a tube or mandrel the same size as the screw base thread and wind the nut onto this. Then you can take this to a large tray and remove the mandrel letting the balls fall into the tray. Then you do the same in reverse, re-build the nut onto the mandrel and re-fit the nut onto the screw by winding it off the mandrel.

You have my sympathy re the flood, that's quite a mess. The electronics might well survive if everything was switched off before it got wet. Just be very careful to ensure it's completely dry, including inside all the nooks and crannies before trying to power it up again. a hairdryer or (not too) hot air gun might help here along with a lot of patience.
I would say 'leave outside in the warm sunshine and gentle breeze to dry' but it isn't the middle of summer right now in Swindon.

Just a note on the Wago's - I tried them once (inside my current cabinet, PSU-side) - on 3d-printed retaining clips onto a DIN rail. In a completely static cabinet they're not too bad, but I keep looking longingly at DIN terminals. I wouldn't use them at all for interconnects to motors/sensors etc - they're not designed for an installation intended to be subject to movement. They offer little over DIN terminals other than perhaps cost, and can be fiddly little buggers.

GX25?, they come in 25s? I might need to investigate those!, but for stepper drivers, etc, I've always reverted to the 4-pin XLR connectors. They can still be a bit of a challenge with the limited space in the back-shell, persuading 15mm of stripped cores into the right sequence.

The Amphenols?, beautiful connectors (talking multiway circular connectors... in a nice olive-green) - cut my teeth on those on an early apprenticeship. Definitely the connector of choice if you've bottomless pockets.

I've been using XLRs for motor connections and have no problems with them. You can also get Ethernet connectors in an XLR shell which makes the connection a bit more workshop-suitable than a standard Ethernet connection (the XLR has one of these inside but provides mechanical stability). I always use heat-shrink sleeving on individual wires on these connections, including the GX16 signal connections. Makes wiring a bit more fiddly but worth it for reducing the risk of broken connections and shorting stands.

Looks like the xlr are very popular.

Doddy, don`t worry I wont use those wagos for the machine, I was just remarking on their ease of use really. I was hoping for some similar type of method but more suitable for movement. I had initially thought of those nice connectors found in cars with the rubber seals. I guess anything with a good solid connection but without soldering if possible.

Off to hire an enormous dehumidifier now.

Ollie

Good luck with the dehumidifier.I suspect you may be right about the bearings in the BK blocks clicking and clacking as I get a little of this myself.I don't think replacing them is a major job and I would have no qualms about tackling it myself.Dismantling ballscrews is a very different kettle of fish and I wouldn't go near that one without a really powerful reason.I read some while ago that the balls are intended to vary very slightly in size so that they don't jam together and the differences are tiny.Which means it may not be wise to just re-insert them at random if they ever fall out.I have seen them removed by service engineers on a couple of occasions and they had a cardboard tube to slide into the centre of the ball nut to keep things in place.

Hi all.

Routerdriver, I shall certainly leave the ballscrews alone apart from a good greasing, does it have to be a specific grease or can anyone recommend a favourite.

I have been contacted today by a loss adjuster on behalf of the insurance company. He asked me who made the machine ? I said it was custom made by the person who I bought it from and then I did some work to improve it etc.
I think they would have prefered if I had just said its a SCM or Mazak or whatever. This is the trouble with built not bought.
So I said that I paid under market value, which I certainly did and to buy a replacement machine with the same capacity and accuracy would be about £6,000 which is a bit of a guess.
It will do 1150mm by 900mm, cuts pretty fast and will do readable lettering down to 3mm.

Anyway, I said I don`t think it needs replacing neccessarily but is going to need checking everywhere because it has been effectively rained on. He suggested that I wouldn`t do that myself would I, to which I replied that I probably would.
I would have just gone through every connection to make sure it was dry etc then I guess re-configure UCCNC on a new pc ( old PC still drying and un-tested so far )

So my dilema is that he needs a quotation for the inspection and repair of my machine. I have no idea who I would get to do this really so I am asking if anyone here would do it or know how to find someone who would.

He is coming on Wednesday to have a look at the workshop.
I worry that to him the machine will appear a little "home made " and not a professional machine, even though it is great.

Cheers


Ollie

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Originally Posted by Ollie78

I worry that to him the machine will appear a little "home made " and not a professional machine, even though it is great.
Ollie

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Put a bit of Ali next to it engraved with "HAAS" :-)

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Originally Posted by Doddy

Put a bit of Ali next to it engraved with "HAAS" :-)

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Ha Ha, I could do if it was working !!