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Time to dump good old chemicals, no more classic etching way !!! DIY CNC mill can do it faster and more precise. Small PCB for LM350 adjustable voltage regulator as a power supply for watering system (standard battery power supply with 2xAA doesn't last long, so this time I hope no wife complaining her flowers have died:smile: ). Maybe a bit too deep(0.5mm), but it exceed my expectations anyway
http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/images/misc/pencil.png
looks sweet that mate.
A bit deep?
Looks like you've carved a few grand canyons in that pic!
Looks very tidy though.
That's what I thought too - doesn't really matter though, just more cutter wear if anything, however it looks like FR2 so the wear isn't so bad anyway. What cutter did you use? The edges look very nice and clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Thanks for your kind words.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I used 1/8" Carbide engraving bits
Looks nice but ... "Your only supposed to blow the B***y dorrs off" so to speak.
Pictures nice anyway!
peter
Not Bad, been doing pcbs on a cnc router for a while now. Would advise a depth of 0.14mm using the 60 degree Zrn Coated 2 flute bits from precisebits.com. Works perfectly for my stuff. The standard v carve bits only last a little while where as these bits last me for around 40 boards if cared for.
Oh and a good tip if some tracks are connected is get a 12v power supply, connect the positive to the board and tap the negitive on each track, it will either spark where the connection is or melt the connection completly, saves loads of time compared to going around the tracks with a stanley knife believe me!
I've done that before, sometimes accidentally - it's very effective! Could even get the router to do it for you if you connect the power supply to the cutter ... probably taking it too far.Quote:
Originally Posted by CHudson
I think you're best off with as small an angle on the bit as you can get, that compensates for any slight inaccuracies in how flat the PCB is mounted getting the isolation closer to a constant width. Assuming you've surfaced the bed before making the PCB it's not too big an issue, but still worth considering especially on big PCBs or arrays of boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by CHudson
Even better in my opinion is to use a very small endmill, say 0.5mm or less instead of a V-cutter, then the height is not an issue. Also I think it would leave less burrs than a V-cutter, although I've found that using the 25mm/min per 1000rpm spindle speed rule you don't get many burrs.
Hi
I was just browsing for relevant posts for my project and I happened to stumble upon yours. That is a very cool idea ! I am also thinking to throw away chemicals and that odd stuff !!
How much does this CNC machine costs ? I am planning to get one for my hobby circuits. because through prior way it takes too much time to make one !!
dave
Quite deep, but for 1st cut can not complain.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiatroda
May I ask what kind of software was used for circuit design?
Eagle pcb takes me ages and is inaccurate with leg component distance.
Thanks
Tom
You'll find Eagle is very precise, provided that you select the correct library components.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J
*EDIT* provided you're not referring to axial-lead components, where obviously it's down to the designer as to the intended pitch to form the leads.
Just realised this was a 4 year old post
I tried Eagle and did not find it easy, after trying some of the other usual suspects I settled on dipTrace to produce the designs and the FlatCAM to do the isolation routing. Within the last few days I came across copperCAM which looks useful. Here is a link, I have not tried it yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J
http://www.galaad.net/coppercam-eng.html
I think that this was my first attempt using that software around 2018/2019 on a Bridgeport mill.
Attachment 30367
I made a vacuum chuck to hold it down flat. Measurements showed that it was almost perfectly flat and there was no need for level mapping software to correct the G-code for level.