Anyone got any spare? PM me a price. Popped a driver this morning....everytime I fix a problem a new one comes around :)
Thanks, Phil
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Anyone got any spare? PM me a price. Popped a driver this morning....everytime I fix a problem a new one comes around :)
Thanks, Phil
Need 2-3, just killed another, think my X-axis stepper is faulty. It moved a bit then pop and wisp of smoke :(
Cheap as chips (pun intended) here 3PCS Original NEW TB6560AHQ TB6560 TOSHIBA IC IC's | eBay if you're not in a rush else TB6560HQ | eBay
Cheers, ordered some last night but wanted a couple to get going, need to know why that axis has killed 2 drivers :)
Thanks for the help!
What voltage were you running them on?
This may be a sign of things to come, i doubt this is a one off.:playful:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
They are running at 24.0v(exactly). I'll give you the whole story to see if you can pinpoint anything.
The control box is the one that comes with the 3040, never had a problem until it was in storage while I moved. I unpacked it one day, set it up, hit the switch and poof, blue smoke was escaping from the breakout board. One of the buffers had popped so I assumed the breakout was gone and bought a new one. After a lot of tracing I figured out which wire went where and hooked up the Y axis. Success! It moved both ways and much smoother than before so I hooked up the Z axis and again it worked better than ever. Then came the X axis, after hooking it up the motor moved briefly then stopped. I assumed it was the wiring so I ran new wiring between breakout and driver and it was the same. I then moved the Y axis driver and plugged it into the X axis wiring and poof, more smoke. The motor moved about 100mm before killing the driver.
Is this a motor fault, it sounded ok for the brief moment it moved, or is it more likely to be damaged wiring between motor and driver?
Thanks for any help, Phil
Is there a simple way to test the stepper motor?
It depends what's wrong with it, but there's a few things you can try with basic tools to get a limited amount of information:Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly
- If you've got a multimeter you can check that the resistance of each phase is close to the value specified in the datasheet.
- Check that there are no short circuits to the housing or between the phases.
- Try disconnecting it from the driver then short circuiting each phase individually and it should get significantly harder to turn.
- Try turning the motor not connected to anything and you should be able to just feel the steps, but still quite smooth. Probably best to compare it to one of the other motore assuming they're the same.
- If you've got a current limited power supply you could set it to the rated phase current and check that the motor draws that current at the right voltage and doesn't breakdown as it heats up or something.
When you try the new ICs, switch it on then monitor the temperature of them. If it gets hot switch off straight away and you'll probably save it...
Best option, as I'm sure you'll have heard by now, is to just get a few of these, or a higher voltage one depending on the motors:
CNC Micro-Stepping Stepper Motor Driver 2M542 Bi-polar 2phase 4.2A Switch | eBay
That's just the first I found, other sellers are available and there may be cheaper ones...
I will end up getting some soon, but been made redundant and money is low. But I have a couple of paying jobs lined up....bloody catch 22 :D
Another 3040 owner here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly
original breakout board on mine had E-Stop wired to something completely different, the box seems a bit thrown together.
The wiring on the frame seems to be have been made with some sort of super brittle wiring, really not up to getting flexed all the time, rewired Z &X on mine and replaced the TB`s , its easier to cut the chip out and mop the pins off , reassembly pretty straighforward then.
Cheers
Adam
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLaNZeR
To be honest, apart from this trouble with the drivers/breakout I've not really had any issues with the machine. I bought it mainly for PCBs and enclosures but have made all sorts with it :)
I have checked the motor and get around 2ohms per coil, checked this against a working one and its the same value. Turning it by hand feels fine, no dead or flat spots and each steps feels fine. I think it may be the wiring has a break somewhere and when the X axis is moving its temporarily going open. I read somewhere that this can kill the drivers so im going to create a new loom tonight :)
Hopefully the ICs will arrive soon so I can get back to work :)
Thanks for the help.
>You get what you pay for I am afraid :(
As a complete newcomer at CNC , first thing found out was what gives first if run an axis into its end stop at full speed, answer on 3040 anyway is the coupling, now keep a spare along with a spare TB driver chip. At least at this level not so scared to try things that might break things.
It was the loom fracturiing that killed the drivers on mine, has been fine since the re-wire.
I've kept a couple of couplers on standby from the beginning, not yet needed one yet :) Ordered 5 TB ICs so will have a few spares.
Update: I have replaced the chips, Y axis is fine now but the X has the same issue(I guess it wasn't the chip). The signal doesn't seem to get around the driver and I think the optocouplers are the problem. I have bridged pin 2 to pin 7 on the 6n137 Opto and now I have slight twitches. The red led flickers when the jog button is pressed now(it never did) but the motor only makes a slight twitching move and moves maybe 0.5mm :)
Do you think the opto just needs replacing?
Thanks
Quite possibly. You should measure the voltage before and after the opto-isolator to verify as it could be a problem with the parallel port.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly
Port seems fine. Im not sure if you are familiar with this IC but have I bypassed it correctly or do I need to disconnect the Cathode of the LED(Pin 3)?
Thanks, Phil
Data sheet looking at would make that 2. LED anode to 7. VEnableQuote:
Originally Posted by Philly
mebbe wanting 6. VOut
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/6N/6N137.pdf
Right, after changing it to pin 3 to pin 6 I have movement but its rough and noisy, but at least I know the driver works so will be ordering some optos to get it going. I found some el817s in some chinese PSP chargers I have knocking around. So need a 6n137 now. I wonder if i can scavange it out of an old stereo or kids toy.
Doubt it, but why mess around? Rapid have them in stock for next day @75p eaQuote:
Originally Posted by Philly
I'm impatient :) Cant find one so ordered, hopefully I can be up and running by tuesday :)