pillar drill?

ok i'm getting somewhere with the design of my machine and as i start to think ahead to how i'm going to assemble everything, the thought of using my cordless drill as reliable as it is, fills me with doubt over the accuracy i'll obtain from this method.

this has lead me to think about buying a pillar drill, so... is the following suitable for drilling steel box section ready for taping so i can mount my rails? would i also benefit from some kind of centre punch? it's been about 12 years odd since i did any metal work at college and somewhere deep in my memory i'm sure a centre punch help get a more accurate hole? so could somone recommend one if i need it

ROTARY PILLAR DRILL DRILLING PRESS BENCH MACHINE TABLE - 3 YEAR WARRANTY | eBay

and while we are talking tools...

EVOLUTION FURY 3-b 210mm Mitre Saw 240v CHOP SAW CUTS METAL AND WOOD | eBay

for cutting the box section if it is i can't find anyone to cut my steel to size or they want too much??

I have a (relatively) cheap pillar drill, similar to that one, and it's acceptable.
Drilling and tapping all the holes in the box section before mounting the rails is not a good plan, especially if you're marking them out by hand. For supported rails it's easiest to put bolt in the end of one rail, slide the gantry back and fourth so that they align, put a bolt in the other rail and repeat that procedure until they are well enough attached to drill and tap the rest of the holes. Drilling them in situ like this makes it much easier to ensure the holes are accurately aligned.

aye that is the intention, but i still feel it'll be easier to do with a pillar drill instead of by hand with my cordless, and as christmas is coming it's a perfect excuse to get it bought for me as there aint nothing else i need/want that anyone else can afford.. i'm even tempted at the moment to get my siblings to buy me a nema 23 each haha

might be better with a band saw wilfy for your box section, but the accuracy of such might be lost a little.

I find an old tap is as good as any centre punch, so long as it has a pointy end. others may disagreee and say that they shatter but ive never had this happen.

The pillar drill should be fine so long as you take your time, perhaps double drill your holes, pilot then main size.

for marking out, try a cheap digital vernier caliper, an engineers square and some good old marking out blue dye.

The drill you have posted seems at a good price and at a budget would be ok for light work, up to and including what you want to use it for. So long as you have some cutting fluid to lubricate the drill, and PECK (go in 3mm come out, repeat, repeat, add fluid, repeat) drill you should be fine, remember to run the drills at an appropriate speed and feed too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wilfy

aye that is the intention, but i still feel it'll be easier to do with a pillar drill instead of by hand with my cordless, and as christmas is coming it's a perfect excuse to get it bought for me as there aint nothing else i need/want that anyone else can afford.. i'm even tempted at the moment to get my siblings to buy me a nema 23 each haha

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If you started as johnathan said, then gave a good mark through the other holes left to drill you could strip it down and drill said marked holes on your pillar drill.

If your looking at chop saws make sure they will cut to the width you require. Personally I prefer compound mitre saws, not that much more expensive if you shop about but far more versatile.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hobgoblin

If you started as jonathan said, then gave a good mark through the other holes left to drill you could strip it down and drill said marked holes on your pillar drill.

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+1 .......

cool seems like i'm thinking in the right direction then

although i'm looking at compund mitre saws and yes as u say there are some just as cheap as what i linked.. but i'm being stupid 2nite and cant see the difference between them and a chop saw

Thought about buying secondhand wilfy, might save you a bob or two and if it has been working fine for the last 30+ years it will probably do fine...

Clarke CDP151B 300W 5 Speed 13mm Professional Drill Press Pillar Workshop | eBay

Press Pillar Pedestal Drill | eBay

I am just lurking in the background and following these threads. I think that the difference is that a compoud saw the blade will tip over to an angle as wee as swivel around from sid to side. Good luck with your build.

Re the chop saw they are currently on sale at BnQ. Doesnt say 'sale' on the website but does in-store.

B&Q - Search

good find

but it says compound and it looks the same as the chop saw i linked before

Evolution 210mm Multipurpose Compound Mitre Saw, 0849713030290
EVOLUTION FURY 3-b 210mm Mitre Saw 240v CHOP SAW CUTS METAL AND WOOD | eBay

That's because it is the same Wilfy lol, my fault for trying to confuse you ( I'm getting old) what I had meant to post first time round was that you would be better off with a sliding compound mitre.
See the addition of the word sliding makes all the difference. That was the whole point of me saying to watch the width of the material you are cutting. Chop saws (or compound mitre saws) are quite limited in the width they will cut, especially as you are looking at a saw with quite a small blade (210mm)

fair enough, makes sense now.. but as my only intention is to cut max 60mm box section surely a 210mm blade will do this for now.. at £50 its a steal regardless and it has hopefully just been bought by the rents for a crimbo prezzie :D

Hi Wilfy I would sugest that you take a small piece of wood with you about 60mm to see if the blade will clear it as the further you cut from the back the less depth of cut you will get. I think you might be on the limit.

If the only thing you want it for is this build then it will probably be OK but as Clive says always best to check max it will cut. From the picture it looks like the head lifts quite high on that one but I wouldn't expect it to cut much more than 60 x 60 with a blade width of 210mm anyway.

the biggest i need is 60x40, but i see your point, i need to go bnq 2nite as it happens so will try and get a demo or atleast a measure up

hmm.. i've just been told it's already been bought for me and i didnt get chance to go bnq and look at it.. oops.

now all i gotta do is persuade someone to buy me the drill :D

Just been looking at the evolution rage 2 what a BEAST got to get me one of those!

Regarding your question on difference between chop saw and mitre. The chop saw is designed for steel and the like. Spins slower and has a clamp to hold the work piece in place. Most use a cutting disk but some use a blade like the aforementioned rage 2...

right for the record i have had a look at the box for the saw as thats all i needed to see and it tells u one the side that the blade will cut max 3mm steel, alu, wood and then it goes on to show you all sorts of combinations of sizes that it cuts and in straight cuts it will do 50 x 120 as the biggest piece i will use is likely to be 60 x 40 then thats perfect for me and at £50 is a bargain.. so thanks again for the nudge towards bnq i've really lucked out here by looks of it.. now i just need to find a pillar dril which tbh i'm seriously considering the one i posted about first

If you don't need something quite as hardcore as the evolution rage, tesco's are currently doing the lower end evolution fury saws for £37.
Buy Evolution TCT Fury 1 Multi Purpose Circular Saw from our Multi Purpose Saw range - Tesco.com

They also cut wood/alu/steel

Evolution FURY-B 185mm TCT Multipurpose Circular Saw - YouTube

too late it's already bought, soon as i saw the cheap price i told my mum to buy it me for xmas

and to be fair i'd rather have a table top one got the space for it :D