7' X 4' Combi

This will be a Router/Mill with Plasma,

Ok i should have started this thread sometime ago but i wanted to collect as many bits as i could to get a good start. So I used sketchup to give me the initial concept...
Attachment 7507Attachment 7510

The first thing that was pointed out to me was that the Gantry may be a little too high and so thaat has been altered now.

the machine will eventually have an ATC and has 2 stations at the right side of the gantry for the most commonly used tools, and the rest on the front of the bed, there is also a Secondary 7" Touch screen with a custom mach layput to suit its size.
Here is also a picture of some of the goodies that will go to building it.

Attachment 7508

There was a few more additions to this but they wouldnt fit on the table...

Today i started work on the electrics box...

Attachment 7509

I will start the internals Next Weekend...

Rick

Ok started work on the Z back plate, So i have a few questions.

Firstly i have 150mm between the centers of the guide rail blocks along the Y axis, to put the Z axis blocks on the plate i was wondering,
what would be the best configuration.
IE Above the upper rail and below the lower rail.
Inbetween both
or
1 above the lower block and 1 below.

Attachment 7640

Attachment 7641

Here are some Draft drawings that show Z above Y, But as i said im not sure of the best configuration.

So Ideas would be Welcome.


Rick

You want the lower two bearing blocks on Z as close to the bed as you can get them, to reduce the overhang. This is because the Z-axis can be modelled as a cantilevered beam, since it's only supported at one end. This means that the deflection at the end is proportional to the distance from the tool to the support (lower Z bearings) to the power 3, so even a small reduction in this distance can help a lot to increase the stiffness.

I'd put them above the top rail and below the lower rail for the above reason, and also because this increases the spacing of the blocks which is important to get maximum stiffness and it probably makes assembly easier. If However you can't afford the loss in travel thin entails, it's OK to have one between and the lower one below.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

You want the lower two bearing blocks on Z as close to the bed as you can get them, to reduce the overhang. This is because the Z-axis can be modelled as a cantilevered beam, since it's only supported at one end. This means that the deflection at the end is proportional to the distance from the tool to the support (lower Z bearings) to the power 3, so even a small reduction in this distance can help a lot to increase the stiffness.

I'd put them above the top rail and below the lower rail for the above reason, and also because this increases the spacing of the blocks which is important to get maximum stiffness and it probably makes assembly easier. If However you can't afford the loss in travel thin entails, it's OK to have one between and the lower one below.

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Well the Z rails i have were going to be 400mm, but since i got hold of some 520mm rails :friendly_wink: i can afford to loose a little more travel than expected, i will take that advice, and thank you very much for it.

I will be completing the design before the end of the week i suspect, i am going for 30mm alu plate if i can get hold of it.

Regards Rick

Having Lowered the gantry already i didnt want to lose any more Z travel so ive opted for this configuration of bearings..

Attachment 7760Attachment 7759Attachment 7762Attachment 7761


540x300x30mm Ali Plate, Should Give an Assembled measurement of less than 95mm from gantry to front of plate..

Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

Having Lowered the gantry already i didnt want to lose any more Z travel so ive opted for this configuration of bearings..

Attachment 7760Attachment 7759Attachment 7762Attachment 7761


540x300x30mm Ali Plate, Should Give an Assembled measurement of less than 95mm from gantry to front of plate..

Rick

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Don't like the fact the Z axis bearings are so far up the back plate, your creating probably 70mm more leverage. Reducing this flexy leverage is more important than having a slim Z axis any day.
The 300mm for Z axis front plate is a bit of waste has well and will make more work for the stepper and reduce feeds/accel at 30mm thick. 200mm width is fine so thats effectively 540x100x30mm and £23 of wasted plate and if 6 series ali 4.3KG of weight thats not required.!!

If you must have narrow Z axis then I'd go with some thing like the pics below.
It's wider on the Y axis by 60-70mm were bearings are located but slimmer on the rest and Z axis front plate but more importantly the bearings are lower down.
Also it's actually slimmer at approx 70mm from gantry, will be much lighter and estimate approx 10-12KG lighter over all and will probably use less material depending if you can use the same shortened back plate.?

Obviously I've had to guess and used 20mm linear bearing models and dimensions here so depending what your actually using things could workout slightly different.

Cheers Jazz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Don't like the fact the Z axis bearings are so far up the back plate, your creating probably 70mm more leverage. Reducing this flexy leverage is more important than having a slim Z axis any day. .

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Jonathan had pointed this out to me as well, so putting them either side is a good bet as in your drawings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

The 300mm for Z axis front plate is a bit of waste has well and will make more work for the stepper and reduce feeds/accel at 30mm thick. 200mm width is fine so thats effectively 540x100x30mm and £23 of wasted plate and if 6 series ali 4.3KG of weight thats not required.!!.

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The 300mm will be needed so i cannot odds that, and the weight will be offset buy putting Holes/Pockets where i can removing excess material in the back plate and on the rear of the front plate, i was going to draw that but it crowded the drawing and made the concept difficult to see, I know its a waste but i can live with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

If you must have narrow Z axis then I'd go with some thing like the pics below.
It's wider on the Y axis by 60-70mm were bearings are located but slimmer on the rest and Z axis front plate but more importantly the bearings are lower down. .

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I will have to look at the extra 60-70mm to see if i will lose work space as the spindle is going to be mounted on the right side of the front z plate. Im not thinking it will be a problem..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Also it's actually slimmer at approx 70mm from gantry, will be much lighter and estimate approx 10-12KG lighter over all and will probably use less material depending if you can use the same shortened back plate.

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Ive no problems making it slimmer but i would like to mount the stepper with spindle pointing upwards and running a belt to the Screw, the motor is 100mm long (nema 24 (4nm Claimed) ) so would need at least that much to clear the top of the gantry, effectively front plate and back plate level at the top of its travel. the rails i have are 520 or 540mm long cant remember of the top of my head, but that should give enough travel, the Y axis bearings will be 150mm from center of bottom bearing to Center of top bearing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Obviously I've had to guess and used 20mm linear bearing models and dimensions here so depending what your actually using things could workout slightly different.

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Well they are 15mm rails for the Z as thats what i have, the Y well they could be 15 or 20 mm depending what i buy/procure..

Im not going to be doing any heavy Machining Of metals other than the odd bit of ali sheet, so i suspect 15mm will be ok if i can reduce the final weight of the Z axis assembly by pocketing as much out of it as i can without compromising on the strength to any great degree.

Rick

Jazz, Looking again at your design, if the Z/Y backplate was higher (to accommodate the stepper arrangement I mentioned) and the front plate wider then that's the job done I rekon.. What software do you use to do your drawings?? Cheers Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

.. What software do you use to do your drawings?? Cheers Rick

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Rhino for cad.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Rhino for cad.

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I will have to take a look at that... Cheers

Ok using some of Jazz's Suggestions, Ive reworked the Z axis and included all machined parts im hoping to end up with.

Attachment 7810Attachment 7811 Attachment 7808Attachment 7809Attachment 7812Attachment 7813Attachment 7814

Im Hoping Thats better than my first attempt, i've put pockets in to remove weight, whilst trying to maintain structural integrity..

Rick

if this works, you know you are making me one of these when i expand my empire. :D

btw why did you go for a weird size like 7' x 4' instead of 8' x 4' which would let you fit a full size sheet of anything?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wilfy

if this works, you know you are making me one of these when i expand my empire. :D

btw why did you go for a weird size like 7' x 4' instead of 8' x 4' which would let you fit a full size sheet of anything?

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LOL I will have to get one made for myself first hopefully ill get a few comments first, Then i will RFQ and see Who wants to make the parts for me..

The size? Hmmmm, i only needed 6' X 4' but you lose about 8" or more from the tool to the back of the gantry, so 7' covers what i need but is still considerably cheaper than going to the 8'. To actually have an 8' X 4' usable area can mean a machine of upto 9'..

Maybe iI will do a Full 8' X 4' usable area when ive comleted this One.. He He He..

Rick

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m.marino

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

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OMG!! thanks mate (Dont know your name) i left space to put ports in for the rail blocks but not the ballnut, and never incorperated them into the design.. Thats magic thanks for noticing that.. I will sort it now.

Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m.marino

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

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There You Go, Ive put a pocket in , it will be behind the stepper when the Z is fully up. Im woring on the placement of the limts at the moment so its not quite finished but I suspect I will post it for quotes in the next week or so, the trouble is eveyone is a little busy at this time of year.

Attachment 7834Attachment 7837

Attachment 7835Attachment 7836

Rick

Hi Rick,

See Little things but important and worth the little extra effort.!

First the linear rails and bearing pockets. Ideally you want registers to aid alignment/re-assembly and because your pocketing the bearings you can use the walls of these pockets has the registers by making sure the bearings on one side of each set of bearings aliagn with the walls (See Red circles in pics).

Also I'm sure this you know but I'll point out any way just in case.? The pockets have square corners and we can't easily machine sq corners. So the pockets will need additional length to allow for the radius of the cutter. (circled Blue)

Can I just ask what's the rectangular piece with 2 holes.? (circled green)

The top stepper bracket.? Is it a 2 piece part or single.? Doesn't really need to be 2 piece and could be single and still do the job. Also the little bits that lock into the pockets won't be needed and make the machining and fit harder than needs to be Again due to radius corners clashing with square edges.
To be honest all the pockets and step down on top piece could also be done away with and reduce machine time without adding a massive amount of weight. Lot of work in that one piece that doesn't need or had much to the machine.

The I'd also leave a small skin 1-2mm on the lightening pockets on rear plate so it doesn't leave access for flying chips.

I know it's just probably to save drawing but remember all internal corners will have radius so take care this doesn't catch you out if anything is close on dimensions or catching.?

Edit: Oh Before those observing think I'm being negative or putting someones work down which to be honest I'm getting sick being accused off then Ric asked me to have a look and comment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

OMG!! thanks mate (Dont know your name)

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A BIG clue is the last word . . . . . " Micheal ". . . . Lol

One other thing I don't see any reference to a ballscrew or bearing mountings for one.?

The slot up the centre looks rather narrow for Ballnut and it's mount has well.?

Firstly Jazz and i must say this at the begining and not the end, I dont want replies that are skirting round what im after, for fear of offending me, Im a grown man and i dont have time to waste, I like the direct responces and if i factor in a bit of northern sence of humour, i get a free grin to boot!!!

I also respect all those people who know better than me and dont see the comments as a personal dig, If i cannot do something because i lack Knowlege, experience, or indeed a little common sence, then its nice to know that there are those that will give replies i wont forget in a hurry LOL and i get their wisdom for FREE.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Hi Rick,

See Little things but important and worth the little extra effort.!

First the linear rails and bearing pockets. Ideally you want registers to aid alignment/re-assembly and because your pocketing the bearings you can use the walls of these pockets has the registers by making sure the bearings on one side of each set of bearings aliagn with the walls (See Red circles in pics)Also I'm sure this you know but I'll point out any way just in case.? The pockets have square corners and we can't easily machine sq corners. So the pockets will need additional length to allow for the radius of the cutter. (circled Blue)

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I have made the pockets for the bearings 70 X 48 with a bearing size of 65 X 46, the rails are 15 x 15 and the pockets for them are 16mm where applicable. if you think that needs changing let me know, its easy to change, and i have allowed enough space in the design for this

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Can I just ask what's the rectangular piece with 2 holes.? (circled green)

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LOL i did wonder if anyone would ask and i didnt factor in the radiused corners in the back plate for it, I was going to tig that in to the back plate as a mount for the lower bearings for the back plate and the Y ballnut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

The top stepper bracket.? Is it a 2 piece part or single.? Doesn't really need to be 2 piece and could be single and still do the job. Also the little bits that lock into the pockets won't be needed and make the machining and fit harder than needs to be Again due to radius corners clashing with square edges.)

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I had wanted it to be a single part, pocket locks gone!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

To be honest all the pockets and step down on top piece could also be done away with and reduce machine time without adding a massive amount of weight. Lot of work in that one piece that doesn't need or had much to the machine..)

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Gone!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

The I'd also leave a small skin 1-2mm on the lightening pockets on rear plate so it doesn't leave access for flying chips...)

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Done!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

I know it's just probably to save drawing but remember all internal corners will have radius so take care this doesn't catch you out if anything is close on dimensions or catching.?

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Yes it was to save drawing but i'm glad you have mentioned it, I will go over the design as i dont want any surprises as just the material will cost a mint so i dont want any surprises, Im determined to get this right.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Edit: Oh Before those observing think I'm being negative or putting someones work down which to be honest I'm getting sick being accused off then Ric asked me to have a look and comment.

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How much more negative would it be not to mention things, and watch me struggle when you could clearly have helped.

This is a free forum and if i get a bit of banter, well thats a small price to pay!! (and im free to give it back)

So many people read emotion into text that isnt there, I dont want you to stop being critical of any designs i submit, it will save me finding out the hard way..

Cheers Jazz

Updated designs will be submitted shortly..

Rick

if only everyone could read jazz's comments in the same way!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

snip...

i dont have time to waste, I like the direct responces and if i factor in a bit of northern sence of humour, i get a free grin to boot!!!

I also respect all those people who know better than me and dont see the comments as a personal dig, If i cannot do something because i lack Knowlege, experience, or indeed a little common sence, then its nice to know that there are those that will give replies i wont forget in a hurry LOL and i get their wisdom for FREE.


snip...

How much more negative would it be not to mention things, and watch me struggle when you could clearly have helped.

This is a free forum and if i get a bit of banter, well thats a small price to pay!! (and im free to give it back)

So many people read emotion into text that isnt there, I dont want you to stop being critical of any designs i submit, it will save me finding out the hard way..

Rick

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+1 to that Rick. To me that is the best thing about all the people here who take the time and trouble to contribute. I'm not interested in fluffy platitudes, I'm interested in getting it right.

:toot: Nothing wrong with being load and proud. With the input you are getting Ric will turn out a very nice build. Rome was built together and not by one man (plus a huge amount of slaves)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

One other thing I don't see any reference to a ballscrew or bearing mountings for one.?

The slot up the centre looks rather narrow for Ballnut and it's mount has well.?

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I have two AC Bearings for the top mount and the Top plate has pockets accordingly 32x10 ID12 and a floating beatring for the bottom. (to suit a 1605 ballscrew) each half of the channel is 40x20mm so that should be enough... I think..

Attachment 7843

This is the ballnut i will be using although im open to suggestions, If you think a better one could be used.

Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

I have made the pockets for the bearings 70 X 48 with a bearing size of 65 X 46, the rails are 15 x 15 and the pockets for them are 16mm where applicable. if you think that needs changing let me know, its easy to change, and i have allowed enough space in the design for this

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All it needs is at one side of each set of bearings to have the side of the pocket line up with the edge of the bearing, so the bearing or rail Butt's upto it.
So IE: On the Z axis have say the left bearings align with the pocket edges, same with rails on Left side. With the Y axis have the upper Bearings align with upper pocket edges, the rails you'll have to deal with on the Gantry but same applies a straight and true Register helps.
The rest of the pockets can be any size so long has the bearings and rails fit inside and infact a bit of wiggle room helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

LOL i did wonder if anyone would ask and i didnt factor in the radiused corners in the back plate for it, I was going to tig that in to the back plate as a mount for the lower bearings for the back plate and the Y ballnut.

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Ye thats what I feared.!! Don't do that it's too inflexible.! "Adjustment" "Adjustment" "Adjustment" is the secret to the whole machine and Esp the setting up of the Z axis and ball-screw alignments.
Ask anyone who's done it the difference between working and locking up is silly small and if you haven't got easy or multiple ways to adjust then life will be frustrating.!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Ye thats what I feared.!! Don't do that it's too inflexible.! "Adjustment" "Adjustment" "Adjustment" is the secret to the whole machine and Esp the setting up of the Z axis and ball-screw alignments.
Ask anyone who's done it the difference between working and locking up is silly small and if you haven't got easy or multiple ways to adjust then life will be frustrating.!!

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Ok Will look at that, any ideas jump out at you looking at it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardoco

Ok Will look at that, any ideas jump out at you looking at it?

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Just make each mount individual and bolt on so that if needed they can be adjusted or shimmed has needed.! Nothing fancy needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Just make each mount individual and bolt on so that if needed they can be adjusted or shimmed has needed.! Nothing fancy needed.

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Yep that makes sence, off to work now so speak when i get there, will have a look when i get to site.


Rick

Rick,

With that ballnut a good bit of the issue with lubrication is mute BUT still make sure you have access. I also see why you want to keep in near completely enclosed as that nut does not have protective flanges for the ball races. Therefore the less chance for swarf to get in the better.

Speaking from experience of a a design done with Jazz and he built for me and I have worked on a good bit and have had to lube and put shims back and all the fun that goes with it, listen to Jazz. Now hear is where I get to make a point a bit clearer. Lubrication is not just the ball nut. Those linear rail carriages are going to want a greasing once a quarter if you are using that machine with a daily use level (that is even with the protective scrapers).

Personally for myself I am setting up a bit of over kill as I am designing a lube system for my current machine that will be a lube block for X, one for Y and most of Z and a single lube point out the front of the Z plate with a cap for the ball nut.

Registers made setting up my machine take two days instead of a week ( even though it came up here in two heavy large sections it still needed squaring, truing and tramming. A side note to folks, tramming is something you should check once a fortnight to once a month (depending on how heavy your use is and what your cutting). My source for this information is a few friends back in the states that are having fun laughing at me stumbling along and learning (They are both 20 yr plus machinists and High School "friends" :beaten: ).

You have a really nice design and with just a bit of adjustment it will not only do you proud as a finished build (ha, a machine is never finished), but the quality you put in and care to detail in the build has a direct result on the out come you get. I mean heck with the power supply I finally built and installed for my machine I am running acceleration level in scary land with rather nice rapids. When I get the feeds and speeds right (which is getting more often) I am getting wonderful finishes. Keep it up, doing good.

Michael

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m.marino

Rick,

With that ballnut a good bit of the issue with lubrication is mute BUT still make sure you have access. I also see why you want to keep in near completely enclosed as that nut does not have protective flanges for the ball races. Therefore the less chance for swarf to get in the better.

Speaking from experience of a a design done with Jazz and he built for me and I have worked on a good bit and have had to lube and put shims back and all the fun that goes with it, listen to Jazz. Now hear is where I get to make a point a bit clearer. Lubrication is not just the ball nut. Those linear rail carriages are going to want a greasing once a quarter if you are using that machine with a daily use level (that is even with the protective scrapers).

Personally for myself I am setting up a bit of over kill as I am designing a lube system for my current machine that will be a lube block for X, one for Y and most of Z and a single lube point out the front of the Z plate with a cap for the ball nut.

Registers made setting up my machine take two days instead of a week ( even though it came up here in two heavy large sections it still needed squaring, truing and tramming. A side note to folks, tramming is something you should check once a fortnight to once a month (depending on how heavy your use is and what your cutting). My source for this information is a few friends back in the states that are having fun laughing at me stumbling along and learning (They are both 20 yr plus machinists and High School "friends" :beaten: ).

You have a really nice design and with just a bit of adjustment it will not only do you proud as a finished build (ha, a machine is never finished), but the quality you put in and care to detail in the build has a direct result on the out come you get. I mean heck with the power supply I finally built and installed for my machine I am running acceleration level in scary land with rather nice rapids. When I get the feeds and speeds right (which is getting more often) I am getting wonderful finishes. Keep it up, doing good.

Michael

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Cheers Michael, that ballnut as you say has no flanges, but that too is being worked on he (wink), worst case is I have to open up the channel by 6mm each side and fit a conventional or threaded ballnut, and I may go that way in the end purely for simplicity of duplication and security of the balls!!. I too am toying with the lube question, My Boxford has a lube system that looks after things and I'm thinking of fitting tubing directly to the bearing blocks, although for the moment I will be drilling lube ports in the plate and have left enough room to access the nipples that are fitted to the bearing blocks, the orientation of the blocks when fitted will allow them to be lubed without too much fuss, the bottom ones from underneath when the z is fully up and top when the Z is fully down. The Y axis will be accessible by lining up with holes that will be in the gantry itself, they will be covered when not in use. From Friday I will be tinkering with the design to take account of the Registers. Out comes the Vernier again!! LOL but its so worth getting it right.. Rick

Ok this does have a bearing on the design so please be patient with me, If you were machining these Z parts what would your Cutter preferences be and why, this will help me when i finalise the design, so please everybody pipe in, Remember What type and Why please, if you prefer then PM me as i know some of you wizards like to keep your advantage secret, but please let me know. Right off to bed now 4 hrs should do LOL speak after 1..

Depends on what you want and if your lazy.?

Could get away with doing the whole lot with 6mm and no tool changes but would take longer due having to keep shallower depth of cut for 6mm cutter with 30mm plus flute length.?

Or could use 10mm that would allow to hog the whole lot away quickly with deeper DOC and just have larger radius in the corners.

Or if really need tight corners use combination of both 6 & 10mm. Use large cutter to Hog the 98% material away then run round twice with 6mm. One profile pass to fettle corners then another full depth to clean up.

If the radius doesn't matter, which in your case don't think it does then I'd use 8 or 10mm has they will allow more DOC and speed up the Job with no tool changes. . . 8mm would be my preference.!

I'd use 8mm 2fl to cut the pockets, do finishing passes on the pockets with 6mm 1fl if required and cut the part out with 6mm. So basically the same as Jazz.

OK gents I will run that through a V-carve simulation with an 8mm cutter (two flute) and see what i get and if any alterations will be required to take into consideration the radiuses, although i Know i wont be doing the job myself it will give me an idea of what the finished part will look like..


Rick

Ok Ive altered the design to put in some registers (In Red) and opened the channel to allow for a standard 1605 ballnut bearing seats are all now standard as well Im going to transfer this lot to V0Carve and run the simulation to see if i get any surprises. All the bearing and ballnut mounts are now seperate and adjustable, there is ample access for Lubrication as well

Attachment 7865Attachment 7866

You can only see one side of the registers but take my word for it they are there..

Rick

Rick simple thing but worth doing is putting the register on the first pic at the top not bottom it makes setup easier has the register sits on the bearings machined edge while bolting up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Rick simple thing but worth doing is putting the register on the first pic at the top not bottom it makes setup easier has the register sits on the bearings machined edge while bolting up.

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Ahhhh cheers Jazz, I had to read that twice LOL yeh makes sence now, Thats wont take two ticks as the bearings are 46 wide and the pockets were 48 so ive just moved 1 wall in 1 mm so ill move that back out and the other one in, that will still give me 1 mm free play in the pocket.

Rick

Rotating nut assemblies for your X axis ballscrews are ready:

Attachment 7867Attachment 7868Attachment 7869

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Rotating nut assemblies for your X axis ballscrews are ready:

Attachment 7867Attachment 7868Attachment 7869

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Blimey Now the pressure is on, i was working on the Z whilst i was waiting for these, Looks like i better get my arse in gear!! Thankyou Jonathan, I know you worked over Christmas to get these out for me, I look forward to seeing the posty when he delivers these..

Rick

Just a quick snap to add to the collection!! X axis bits.

Attachment 7871


Rick