Hi guys does anyone have any designs for a nice looking and simple to move and adjust dust shoe, i need to make one as things are getting very messy.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi guys does anyone have any designs for a nice looking and simple to move and adjust dust shoe, i need to make one as things are getting very messy.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Tom,
Did you manage to find anything or come up with a solution you can share?
.Me
No nothing yet i have see a few designs but i think i will do something similar and will post the design when im done.
Cheers
Hi Tom,
Sounds like a plan, after I posted I did go away and give it some more thought, with an intension of just designing something I could post up and offer you and anyone else that wanted to use it.
However I didn’t get passed the thought of, actually it’s the same scenario we often see here, that one design wouldn’t really be suitable for everyone, as we often see different types of Z Axis and gantry design, meaning what may work great for your machine, may hinder and get in the way for another man’s machine.
So I have the feeling this is one of those parts that, actually, needs to be designed on a per machine/application basis.
.Me
Aye I think you are right as on my machins the dust shoes will have to sit to the left of the spindle.
Still i will post what i come up with.
Cheers..
I'm in the process of upgrading my machine (MK3) which will include a new dust shoe. I cut mostly wood so need to keep the dust down.
I wanted to improve upon on MK2 in a number of ways, including extraction. I'm nearing completion of the machine so will post all the photos/renders soon. But in brief they are:
1. Upgrade to 100mm pipe (so it is 100mm pipe all the way from the extractor to the cutter, not throttled down to about 30mm pipe as it runs down the Z axis)
2. Floating dust shoe - the support brackets are attached to the Y axis, not the Z axis. This featured is carried over from my old machine which allowed me to set the dust shoe at just the right height, independantly of the Z axis movement. I found Z axis shoes a bit crude and can end up crushing the skirt on plunge cuts. The floating height setting is made by adjusting the collar/thumb wheel on the front guide rod. Initially the shoe drops with the Z axis but when this collar bottoms out the shoe drops no further, although the cutter can continue downward into the work.
As machining progresses the Z axis can rise and fall but the shoe stays at the same height, skimming over fixtures and creating the 'best' seal to the workpiece.
3. Automatic raising shoe - there is also an adjustable tab on the rearmost rod which catches on the Z axis if it raises past a certain height. This would be set to happen to move the shoe up and out of the way once the job is complete.
4. Magnetic main plate. The lower plate containing the skirt will be magnetically attached to the smaller plate above it on the end of the hose using recessed magnets so it can be snapped in and out to change tools, leaving lots of space for access. There are youtube links etc on these sorts of designs, and I think also some for sale (in the US?). I will make my own again. The skirt will be plastic strips which has worked well before, although you have to have enough stiffness to stop the skirt being sucked into the extractor airflow. The magnetic main plate, and smaller plate above it will both be clear plastic to give a better view of the cutting. Using snap-in skirt plates will also allow me to fit other types of skirt such as broom hair type etc. if required.
5. I'm sure I've seen commercial machines somewhere using ballscrews and steppers to raise the shoe in software as and when required (but I searched for this recently and couldn't find it so might have imagined it!). I pondered this idea but settled on the passive solution described above.
Hope this gives you some ideas. I would post a render showing some of this but having a few problems attaching images . . .
Sounds like a good design, look forward to seeing images
Some commercial machines use a an air cylinder to set the dust shoe to the correct height. I look forward to seeing your post with your solution which sounds very interesting. G.
Only got a few minutes, here is an early render which happens to show some of the dust shoe features.
Attachment 11221
@routercnc, any update on your dust shoe build ?
Also I can't find a good source of the brush strips with decent length bristles, i.e. 50mm+
There are some places but postage doubles the price.
Edit: just found these
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Iron.../sd2802/p84655 ( looks like the aluminium will pull off making it useable)
http://www.kronosrobotics.com/dust-shrouds/
http://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-...boot/?ALLSTEPS
Eddy look for industrial Garage door brush strips and you'll find them at 100mm +.
Thanks, I think I tried that a while back and found they were quite expensive as you were also paying for the aluminium part that will probably be discarded, I read somewhere that just the brush can be bought on a roll that you just cut to length and it's flexible but might have been in USAQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Edit: This was the best place I found a few weeks ago but postage on long lengths killed it, if local pick up it would be ideal.
http://www.formseal.co.uk/camstrips.html
Hi Eddy,
Sorry, been busy making new bed, cutting replacement aluminium parts, buying new drivers and PSU, designing new control box, straightening and setting up ballscrews. Not cut any wood for a while so dropped down the list for now . . .
I've made a few dust shoes over the years and tried both bristles and clear plastic cut into strips. I tend to favour the plastic strips as you can see through and make sure all is well. Still intend to make the floating design above and will post when I've finally made it.
Do you have a source for these plastic strips ?Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
Hi Eddy
i have a couple of shoes, 1 with the strip you linked to from toolstation (it does pull out of carrier strip), and one shorter which I used drawer liner roll from ikea that you can see through
Sorry Eddy, it was just some plastic sheet I had lying around. You can see the floating shoe and plastic skirt on my old machine . . .
Attachment 12147
So what I did for my shoe was cut a channel and then got a wall paper brush and cut all the bristles off it and epoxied them into the channel. It took a little while but it works great so far.
Here is the design for the shoe I made: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7e...it?usp=sharing
its all made of 12mm acrylic and has press fit magnets which go into each part of the shoe so i can snap the brush part off for tool changes etc.
Sounds intersting but it's a link to a Vectric file and I can't open it.
Will this help Attachment 12148 ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
Hi everyone, what trim length of brush do you need ? I'm asking because if you get to long a trim length then the brush filaments can soon get wrapped around the cutter on a direction change. Ripped brushes flying about the workshop and a damaged spindle come to mind. Something none of us want.
Mike
This works very well, it's this bottle trap, Toolstation > Plumbing > Traps & Waste > Shallow Bottle Trap with the guts, top and bottom cut off.
Attachment 12203
The pipe is 40mm. Because the bottom part of the trap screws on, plus the fact it was only £2.24, I was thinking that a few could be bought so that skirts of different lengths could be attached to the removable part thus enabling quick changing of skirts. In reality the depth of the trap as shown in the photo is ideal for a 75mm long cutter but for a shorter 12mm long cutter my collet length is too short and the body of the spindle motor crashes into the top of the bottle trap.
The plan was to manually set the height of it to just above the workpiece, independent of the Z axis.
I tried it with a 12.7mm dia. cutter 5mm DOC and it picked up every particle, the suction was high using one of these http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-345940/d...FTHItAodYxUAwQ, no need for a 100mm pipe whatsoever.
Looks very nice. Very informative to know that 40 mm pipe can deal with the dust.
You raise the pipe and lower it when needed via bracket or similar?
I started to design a 'proper job' based upon the experiment but computer problems have delayed that.Quote:
Originally Posted by silyavski
At first I thought it would be best to set the height just above the work surface and that would be great if you were cutting flat stuff like mdf, ply, etc. but with 3D shapes on thick material it might not be ideal.
The skirt needs to be kept short otherwise it reduces efficiency and get's caught in the cutter so at the moment I'm thinking that for my requirement it's best to have it go up and down with the spindle but also have it manually adjustable so the skirt matches the cutter. Something like this; the 40mm pipe goes in the hole on top.
Attachment 12689