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CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
This is a continuation of this thread. My idea was to build and enclosure for my Chinese 3020 cnc machine, I purchased from Ebay. The top part of the enclosure will house all of the electronics and PC and simply sit over the actual cnc machine. The framework will be made from aluminium profile with perspex side panels and aluminium panels for the top box and back. I have an old 17" touch screen LCD monitor laying about, which will sit on top of the enclosure. For the time being I am going to reuse most of the control electronics, but I have built an opto-isolated addon board, to allow me to connect limit/home switches and a probe, as well as control the spindle from within Mach3. I also plan to have a custom HID controller to allow me to have basic control from the front panel. Lastly I will add some form of led lighting to light up the working area.
The Frame
I won’t go into too much detail about building the frame as it’s pretty easy, I'll just give a quick overview.
First off I made a sketchup model which helped me visualize things and calculate sizes.
After pricing everything up I decided to go with the cheapest 4 slot 30mm aluminium profile, as this was my first time of working with aluminium profile, I wasn't sure how easy it would be. To start with I drilled the 8mm clearance holes for the torx tool, this was bigger than the recommend size but it would give me a little extra room to move things to square them up if needed.
Although I bought the self-tapping screws, I ended up tapping them anyway and once everything was drilled and tapped, it was simply a case of bolting it all together. That's when I realized my first mistake. :shame: In my haste, I had already ordered the Perspex based off the size from the sketchup model. While this was, in a way correct, I had forgotten to allow for the 3.7mm thick end caps, which meant I was 6.4mm out in the height of the panels. I was hoping I would get away with them, but when they arrived I tested them and they were no good. Having learnt from that mistake I checked, checked gain and then checked once more the sizes for the top panels. I managed to find a local company to cut them from 3mm thick aluminium. The cover and reduction profile said it was for panels 4mm to 6mm but in reality a 3mm panel is a nice tight fit, and apart from the cost, thicker aluminium obviously becomes heavier and harder to work with. It would probably have cause problems for things like the front panel switches and buttons too.
Lastly I got some of the black plastic cover to fill in the slots, and some uniblocks to mount the top panels. Here's some pics of the enclosure assembled.
You may notice that I went for a single support for the bottom of the electronics enclosure, as apposed to the 2 in the sketchup model. The 3mm aluminium panel was stiffer than I though it would be and a single support is plenty. As you can see I have ended up with a nice size area, which is plenty big enough to house the electronics and PC, 440mm x 500mm x 100mm.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Why not consider a removable door to stop chips flying about and also to reduce the noise ? will it need a small vent at the back to let heat escape by convection ? I don't know how hot the stepper motors and spindle get.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
EddyCurrent
Why not consider a removable door to stop chips flying about and also to reduce the noise ? will it need a small vent at the back to let heat escape by convection ? I don't know how hot the stepper motors and spindle get.
I did think about a door but decided against it for the time being, but it's something I can look at afterwards. I doubt whether cooling would be needed for the small jobs I do but it would be easy to add a fan or too.
Regards,
Les
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3 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Electronics Layout
The next task is to lay everything out in the top enclosure. I have already played about in sketchup and given it lots of thought, so I have a good idea of where to put things. I want to keep the mains as far away from everything else as possible, so this is what I came up with...
The 24V PSU, PC PSU and spindle PSU/controller are all located in the bottom left. The mains input will be top left, and the mains switches will be located on the front panel in the bottom left corner of the above picture. The plan is to have an IEC C14 chassis socket for the mains input. This will run down to the main on/off switch and then feed the PSUs and run back to a IEC C13 chassis socket, which I will use to power the monitor. I will also have a separate switch to turn the spindle PSU on and off as an added safety feature. This means a single rocker switch will switch the whole unit on and off, including the PC and monitor. With the locations decided it's time to start fixing things in place.
I managed to find a PDF template for the motherboard, which is an Intel DG41AN in case you are interested, and then simply printed it off and taped it in place. I drilled some 3.175mm holes, which were perfect for screwing the standoffs in place. I used a 2.5" to 3.5" mounting plate to mount the 2.5" SSD drive using a couple of mb standoffs. I made more paper templates for the PSUs and simply drilled the holes and screwed them in place. Here's the finished layout...
The only thing missing is the addon board which you can see top middle in the first picture, I haven't decided where to put it yet, but it will probably go just below the motherboard or just to the left of the SSD.
Next up I need to work out where to run the wiring, the mains (cyan) and 24V (red) lines in the picture below are pretty much settled. I am not sure which route to take the spindle (yellow) output though, is it better with the 24v lines or running down the left with the mains? I could keep all the mains wires on the bottom and the spindle wires to the top, this would give about 100mm of clearance between them. I think I am going to use the 2nd option, unless anyone has a better suggestion.
The last job for today is to make some new connectors to run from the stepper motor driver boards, to the chassis connectors. As the stepper motor drivers are mounted right at the back, I only need about 100mm long wires to connect them. I first had to identify the connectors used so I could order some more. A quick google, proved them to be Molex 2139, which were not too hard to get hold of. While making up the new connectors I couldn't help but notice that all 3 stepper motor connectors are wired differently, with relation to the pinouts on the driver boards an the pin numbers on the 4 pin chassis connectors. I will redo these later, to make more sense, but need to wait until I rewire the connections back to the stepper motors. I also love the way the Chinese just wire things in random colours to match the random order. You need to pay very careful attention to what goes where before you take it all apart, taking pictures and making notes where necessary.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Good idea to keep the spindle wiring away from the rest, like you said put one cable at the top and the others at the bottom.
It looks like a good space to house the 'guts'
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I made some more progress today, I hacked out the back panel and ran the 24v wiring. I also redid the stepper driver connectors as I wasn't happy with them. Lastly I did some of the mains wiring but couldn't finish it because I don't have the right crimp tool for the piggy back spades. I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow.
I decided to run a quick systems check to test out the new wiring and power supply. All 3 axes worked without a hitch, so far so good. Next I hooked up my IO board to test out the spindle relay. As soon as I turned on the power, the spindle buzzer and relay went off. Everything worked fine once Mach3 was up and running, but we can't have the spindle turning on during start up can we. I was planning to add the charge pump circuit anyway, but now it's a must. I just need to decide the best way to implement it.
The easiest and most obvious way, is to simply have the charge pump turn on the 24v supply. It does have a remote control feature, which allows it to be turned on or off via 2 pins in the CN100 connector. Without its 24v supply, my IO board will switch off, de-energizing the relay which will turn off the spindle. The only niggle with this setup, is the 24v LED strips I have for lighting up the work area, wont come on until I fire up Mach3 and the charge pump.
I suppose the best option is to get the charge pump to switch a relay, which will power the motors and IO board, this would still have the same level of safety control, but would allow me to use the LED lights all the time.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
While I was waiting for more parts to arrive, I decided to design the charge pump circuit. base upon the 2nd circuit here, I came up with this...
Attachment 11679
It's using the 12v & 5v from the PC PSU to power the circuit and relay (4 pin 9090-4R connector, top left). I have included a fuse holder and LED indicator (JP1,2). The main 24v supply comes in on the left and will only be fed to the outputs (bottom) when the relay is energized, this should only happen when the PC is on and running Mach3.
There is a chance I might have the orientation of the 9090-4R connector wrong, so I need to double check this, once my part arrives, and before making the PCB. (This would swap the +12v & +5v lines)
I have also ordered some new CY cable as I plan to rewire the entire machine now. I will possibly need some new cable chains, so if anyone knows a good supplier, please let me know.
Regards,
Les
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
EddyCurrent
Thanks for the links Ed.
I must have had a real brain fart when I did the charge pump circuit above. Apart from getting the PC power connector the wrong way round, and a couple of other small errors, I made a major mistake with the relay. It's SPDT, so the above circuit makes a direct short across the 24v input, whoops! There's obviously a very good reason for bench testing circuits first, and fortunately I always have the current limiting control on my bench supply turned way down in the milliamp range, so no damage was done. Anyway after a quick couple of tweaks the circuit worked beautifully on the breadboard, I have only tested it connected straight to the BOB, so I just need to make sure it works, through the opto-isolators on the IO board
Here is the second version of the PCB...
Attachment 11680
Regards,
Les
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Hi Les,
Nice to see it all coming together nicely for you :)
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
KB Aluminium
Hi Les,
Nice to see it all coming together nicely for you :)
Thanks Kris, I am getting there, slowly!
Charge Pump continued...
I ran a quick test this morning and the charge pump circuit worked fine through the opto-isolator. While I was testing the circuit, it occurred to me that my Estop flip flop on the IO board was no longer needed. It also occurred to me that I could use the Estop switch with the charge pump, to make a true hardware emergency stop. All I needed to do was take the NC side of the Estop switch to +5v, the NO to Gnd and the Common to Pin 5 of the 4538N. I also added a bi-color LED indicator and a 2 pin connector to take a feed over to the IO board so that Mach3 knows when the Estop occurs.
Here's the 3rd version of the circuit...
Attachment 11683
As I now have a PC PSU inside with ample 5v & 12v lines, I can also loose the 5v regulator circuit from the IO board. Hopefully this extra space will allow me to use some proper connector blocks. I simply didn't have space to fit them before, within the free version of Eagle's size limit (100mm x 80mm).
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I managed to temporarily wire up the spindle over the weekend and isolation routed the above PCB, it wasn't until assembly that I realized that I had still managed to get the +5 and +12v wrong. DOH! I had a short male to female extension lead kicking about, so just flipped the red and yellow wires to test out the board. The design and manufacture were good, everything fitted nicely and the board worked as expected. I have however, since tweaked the design yet again, along with a redesign of the IO board. I now have a single 4 pin connector that will supply 5v & the Estop position to the IO board and it will also send the charge pump signal from the IO board to the power board. Hopefully I can get the 2 new PCBs routed and assembled this week and get them tested.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
It sounds like your boards would be of use to others, are you planning to make them available ready built ?
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
EddyCurrent
It sounds like your boards would be of use to others, are you planning to make them available ready built ?
To be honest Ed, I never gave it any thought, all my electronics projects are done for my own amusement. I had thought of just releasing the details for other people to use, once it has been tried and tested.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I think this machine will be the death of me! I am on my 5th or 6th version of the charge pump circuit now, and 4th or 5th version of the IO board. The charge pump part is working beautifully. A five pin connector takes the 5v, gnd, switched gnd, estop switch position to the IO board and also supplies the charge pump signal. (Previous version I had forgotten the IO board needed power to send the charge pump signal, and was switching the 5v. DOH!) Without the switched ground from the mosfet, the spindle relay transistor wont do anything, meaning the the spindle wont work until a valid charge pump signal is applied. The estop position is just fed back to parallel port pin 15 so that Mach3 also knows when an Estop has occurred. All of this this works great, I just have one niggle with the IO board.
In my previous version of the IO board I had forgot the Limit,Home inputs are NC, which meant the LED's were on all the time. I added a transistor, and now the LED works but the parallel port pin is held low. The strange thing is I tested this with my breadboard before I made the new board, but somehow had managed to test and make something completely different. Here's that part of the schematic...
Attachment 11722
This was my thinking...
When X6-1 & X6-2 are connected to the Home switches, pin 2 of OK1A is grounded, meaning PP 13 is held low. By grounding the base of Q3 LED 1 should be off.
When X6-1 & X6-2 are open, R14 will supply base current to Q3, lighting up LED 1, and also hold pin 2 of OK1A high, making PP13 go high.
It's the last part that doesn't work, the LED lights up but pin 2 stays low, thus Mach3 doesn't see the switch activate.
I am guessing it has to do with the base of Q3, but don't know to be honest, I am better with digital electronics.
Any help or suggestions much appreciated.
Regards,
Les
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pointy
I think this machine will be the death of me! I am on my 5th or 6th version of the charge pump circuit now, and 4th or 5th version of the IO board. The charge pump part is working beautifully. A five pin connector takes the 5v, gnd, switched gnd, estop switch position to the IO board and also supplies the charge pump signal. (Previous version I had forgotten the IO board needed power to send the charge pump signal, and was switching the 5v. DOH!) Without the switched ground from the mosfet, the spindle relay transistor wont do anything, meaning the the spindle wont work until a valid charge pump signal is applied. The estop position is just fed back to parallel port pin 15 so that Mach3 also knows when an Estop has occurred. All of this this works great, I just have one niggle with the IO board.
In my previous version of the IO board I had forgot the Limit,Home inputs are NC, which meant the LED's were on all the time. I added a transistor, and now the LED works but the parallel port pin is held low. The strange thing is I tested this with my breadboard before I made the new board, but somehow had managed to test and make something completely different. Here's that part of the schematic...
Attachment 11722
This was my thinking...
When X6-1 & X6-2 are connected to the Home switches, pin 2 of OK1A is grounded, meaning PP 13 is held low. By grounding the base of Q3 LED 1 should be off.
When X6-1 & X6-2 are open, R14 will supply base current to Q3, lighting up LED 1, and also hold pin 2 of OK1A high, making PP13 go high.
It's the last part that doesn't work, the LED lights up but pin 2 stays low, thus Mach3 doesn't see the switch activate.
I am guessing it has to do with the base of Q3, but don't know to be honest, I am better with digital electronics.
Any help or suggestions much appreciated.
Regards,
Les
Your diagram doesn't show, but I'm guessing from your description you've connected the input of the bob ok1a pin2 directly to the base of Q3. This can't work as the base will always be 0.7v above the emitter, which is grounded.
Assuming the ok1a pin2 input is a logic input and not an optoisolator, to make it work, either:
- connect ok1a pin 2 to the collector then reverse your logic, switch closed= high
or
- put another resistor between the pullup-ok1a junction and the base of Q3. I don't know what values you've used so I've shown my calcs and you can run them for yourself. Assuming your led needs 10mA and q3 has a gain of 50 then the current into the base needs to be10/50mA= 0.2mA so the total resistance on the base to 5v rail is (5-0.7)/0.2k=21.5k. If your pullup is say 4.7k then the new resistor needs to be 21.5-4.7=16.8k, the value isn't that critical so use next lowest standard value of 15k. As a check, the ok1a input will see a voltage of (5-0.7) * 15/(15+4.7)+0.7v =4v when the switch is open.
If ok1a pin2 is optoisolated then option 1 may not work and a different calc is needed for option 2.
Hope this helps.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Thank you so much for replying Irving, this all makes sense now. I also think that I inadvertently did your second option when I tested it., I was using a 4.7k pullup and a 4.7k current limiting resistor on the transistor base. I will test this out as soon as I get a chance, but it probably won't be for a few days.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
4k7 on the base is slightly too small, your logic 1 level will be 2.8v assuming 5v rail which is marginal for noise IMHO. I'd go to 10k at least.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
irving2008
4k7 on the base is slightly too small, your logic 1 level will be 2.8v assuming 5v rail which is marginal for noise IMHO. I'd go to 10k at least.
Many thanks Irving, a 10k resistor on the transistor base worked a treat, I was able to squeeze it in without remaking the PCB which was also good. Here's a couple of pics...
Today I did the mains wiring and started on rewiring the stepper motors, I think I have identified the connectors used as JST SM connectors, and just need to order some male/female crimp pins for them to be able to finish it off.
While I was away I thought about the front panel, it would be nice the engrave some text/lines for a nice professional finish. I just wondered if anyone else had done this and managed to fill the engraving with black paint to good effect?
I think I have also decided to fit some form of LCD display, which I could use to display various info from Mach3 instead of a bunch of LEDs. I could also look at building a speed sensor for the spindle and displaying the speed on the display as well.
Anyway I think tomorrows job will be to try and design the front panel, stay tuned.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I spent a bit of time on the front panel and this is what i have come up with...
The 3 rockers are mains (red), lights (grey) and spindle (green). To the left is the Estop switch with status LED underneath (bicolor). To the right of the rockers is the spindle speed control with yellow LED indicator. The top 3 LEDs are home switches (green), probe (blue) and limit switches (red). Underneath is the PC power button with green power LED and orange HD LED. (I may do away with the PC switch and just set it to auto power on in the BIOS)
The right hand side of the panel consists of the 2 joysticks, LCD display and 9 buttons which I will use to control some basic functions in Mach3.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
The LCD screen and crimp pins arrived yesterday, but it's going to have to wait until the weekend, as there are just 2 days left of the fishing season!
In the meantime I need to fathom out how to export from sketchup to DXF for Jazz. It gives me several options, polyface mesh, polylines, triangular mesh, lines and stl, but I am not sure of which to use. I need to download a DXF viewer to see what is being exported.
The other thing I need to do is the side panels, which both have cutouts for the 92mm cooling fans, but these are pretty straight forward. I think I could just go for a circle of 90mm rather than the rounded square they show in that PDF.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I actually just tried it with polylines and the resulting dxf is here. Is this what you need Jazz?
Almost forgot...
Anyone suggest a suitable adjustable hole cutter to cut the 90mm holes for the fans in 3mm thick aluminium? My bench drill is a Bosch PBD-40
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pointy
I actually just tried it with polylines and the resulting dxf is
here. Is this what you need Jazz?
Almost forgot...
Anyone suggest a suitable adjustable hole cutter to cut the 90mm holes for the fans in 3mm thick aluminium? My bench drill is a
Bosch PBD-40
Hi your link to the dxf file just opens as a text file for me. I think you might have to upload it as an attachment. ..Clive
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Clive S
Hi your link to the dxf file just opens as a text file for me. I think you might have to upload it as an attachment. ..Clive
That happened for me in Chrome but IE is fine. In Chrome once the page has opened as text, just right click and save as, then take the .txt extension off the end.
EDIT>
Didn't notice that we could add attachments, try this...
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pointy
That happened for me in Chrome but IE is fine. In Chrome once the page has opened as text, just right click and save as, then take the .txt extension off the end.
EDIT>
Didn't notice that we could add attachments, try this...
I was using IE Now you attachments open OK. ..Clive
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I did some of the rewiring yesterday, but today I decided to have a play with the LCD screen as I woke up with a pain in my shoulder and didn't fancy playing about in the cold workshop.
It was really satisfying to get it all working, the Mach3 plugin communicates with the custom HID device and this then displays the information on the LCD screen. Here's a sample picture...
I still might change what information is displayed on the screen, but that should be no problem now the basic hardware and code are working.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Just to finish off, I added the joystick and keyboard control code. The only problem is, there are limited built in keyboard shortcuts in Mach3, so I think I will have to add some of my own to the custom screenset I have designed.
All in all, I am pretty happy with this part of the project. However, I think I might design a PCB which will allow me to plug in the Teensy++ 2.0 module, and then solder all the connecting wires to the PCB, rather than solder direct to the actual module.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
It was pretty easy to make a PCB for the HID controller, and this is what I came up with...
I added extra pins for the unused Teensy pins and a few spare grounds, in case I want to add some features later on. I also tweaked the wiring from the default openGLCD to make the layout easier. I just need to get the motor rewiring finished before I can get on and make this PCB though.
Before I do that, I just want to finalize the front panel layout, so I can get the machining organized.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I added the mounting holes to the front panel and printed the whole thing out. I then cut out the holes with a scalpel to double check sizes and layout. I am please to report that everything fitted nicely. I know there are essentially just 4 rectangles + 33 holes to make, and I could do these myself but I really would like to make a proper job of the front panel, especially after all the time I have spent on this project. I also managed to make a right hash of the back panel when using a jigsaw and file. As Jazz made the generous offer of cutting the front panel FOC, I would be stupid not to take him up on the offer. I have suggested he just drill all holes at 3mm as I have a reasonable set of step drills. This should make it easier and quicker for Jazz (I know his machine time is limited) and it will also mean I have some work to do on the panel, which hopefully means it wont feel like cheating so much.
I have also located a suitable hole cutter which will allow me to cut the holes in the side panels for the cooling fans, and rather fortunately it's just a few miles down the road.
I need to get my finger out and finish the motor and limit switch rewiring so I can get the machine up and running again. It would be really nice if I could do that, get the side panels cut, fit the cooling fans and get the front panel in the post to Jazz, by the end of the week. This would then be a massive step towards finishing this project.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I had a productive day today and got pretty much everything done.
I finished the motor & limit switch rewiring. I cut the holes and mounted the cooling fans. They were incredibly noisy at 24v so I am running them off 12V from the PC. I also fitted the 24v LED strips and wired them up. I moved the charge pump board over a little to give me a nice space for the HID PCB when I make it. Lastly I fitted most of the top aluminium profile and tidied up the PC wiring.
I will try and take some more pictures tomorrow.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
One thing I didn't mention is that at some point, my X axis started making a weird high pitch whining noise as soon as power was applied. I thought it was the bad wiring, but after the rewire it was still doing it. After swapping things around it seems which ever axis is plugged into the X stepper driver makes the noise. I woke up this morning with an idea of what is causing it and sure enough I was right. (Isn't it weird that you can go to bed with a problem and wake up with a solution?)
Anyway if you look at the schematic for my bob, detailed in this thread, you will see that parallel port 14 is used for X and A enable. I was using this pin for my charge pump output, so it was being pulsed at 12.5khz, which explains the noise. A quick pin swap has sorted that out but....
I assumed the purpose of the enable output was so that the motor didn't move without this signal being high. There was never a mention of setting pin 14 as an output in the original manual, so why does the X axis work without this set up in Mach3?
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
I had another really productive day today.
First off here's a couple of pictures of yesterdays progress, one of the cooling fans and the slight rejig inside to make space for the HID PCB.
To start with today, I fixed a bad connection on the lead from the IO board to the BoB, which just happened to be my Estop input for Mach3. Although the switch was deactivating the 24v and spindle, it wasn't letting Mach3 know the switched had been thrown.
I really wasn't happy with my rewiring job on the connector ends, so I redid them today and they turned out much better. Here's a pic... (The top 3 are home switches, limit switches and probe)
After that I connected everything and ran a simulated PCB etch for 30 minutes. Everything worked great, and I had no false triggers on the switches even with 0 debounce in Mach3. (Before I had to have a very large debounce setting) I then etched the HID PCB, and in total the machine ran for a couple of hours without issue. :cool: I need to get some 20 way sockets to mount the Teensy module in, before I can fully assemble the PCB, other than that it's pretty much done.
Lastly here's a couple of pictures to show the LED strips in action... (you can see the freshly milled HID PCB as well)
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
OK, when I went to put the enclosure back in it's normal place, I found out the extra piece of heatshrink on the connectors is making them stick out too much, which means they are being pushed against the wall. What I need is some right angled variations on the plugs.
I found the 4 pin here but I can't seem to find the 2 pin in the UK. (I did find them here but would prefer to order from UK if possible) Has anyone come across these anywhere in the UK?
I suppose the other option is to replace them all with another type of plug/socket.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
More exciting drivel....
The sockets strips came for the HID PCB so I soldered them on last night, plugged in the module and the display worked straight away.(Not that I didn't expect it to, as it's not a complicated PCB, but it's still nice when stuff works first time)
And look at this little beauty.....
Big, big thanks to JazzCNC, he only got the panel yesterday and sent me this picture last night. I just hope I didn't screw up any of the dimensions, if not I can see a huge light at the end of the tunnel. :tears_of_joy:
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I couldn't do much yesterday, so I just did a couple of small jobs.
The cheapo WiFi card I am using doesn't have a detachable antenna, so I bought a cheap extension lead from Ebay, cut off the socket end and soldered it direct to the card. I then drilled a hole and mounted it on the back panel, fitted an old router aerial I had laying about and the WiFi signal has gone from 2 bars to 4.
The other small job I did was to mount the HID PCB and cut the LCD screen wires to the correct size.
I am not sure if the front panel is on it's way back to me yet, but if it doesn't arrive, tonight I will pre-wire the joysticks and buttons ready for it.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
It's going to be a smart looking unit when complete, good work.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pointy
I am not sure if the front panel is on it's way back to me yet, but if it doesn't arrive, tonight I will pre-wire the joysticks and buttons ready for it.
Yes on it's way sent yesterday morning recorded delivery so should be with you hopefully.!
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Yes on it's way sent yesterday morning recorded delivery so should be with you hopefully.!
It's here and after a small amount of filing and reaming.........
The more astute of you may have noticed the panel is the other way up, that is because there were a few scratches on the other side. I actually prefer it this way up anyway!
I just have to connect everything up inside now!
Thanks again Jazz, great job!
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
A very nice "swanky" looking panel. G.
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Re: CNC 3020 Enclosure/Upgrade
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pointy
The more astute of you may have noticed the panel is the other way up, that is because there were a few scratches on the other side. I actually prefer it this way up anyway!
Yes I Did my best to protect it from scratches by flooding it with coolant but because it's soft shity aluminium it comes off the cutter like curly chewing gum.!
I didn't have any tape other wise I'd have taped it up. There was no point using side with plastic on either because that stuff just goes mushy with coolant and gets ripped off then wraps around cutter which with small cutters easily breaks them.!
Looks Good thou..:applause:
