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I bought a Boxford vmc260 last year, used it with the Boxford software but found it very slow and limited so I'm going to upgrade to mach3 control.
My machine has Parker stepper drivers and a get Gemini speed controller, does anyone have any information on converting this machine using these original parts and preferably a smoothstepper board?
Can anyone help?
Well it's unlikely anyone has converted that exact machine, but there are usually lots of generic similarities. It would be hard to comment without knowing the exact type of drives and controller, can you give part numbers? Since it sounds like the machine already works, are you sure there isn't a config problem with the existing software? And why would you need a Smoothstepper if the machine already works, could you just upgrade the controller to Mach 3? More information would help.
He'll be wanting an external motion controller to get away from the Parallel port I'd guess.? It's common for folks to think external motion controllers are called smooth steppers when it's actually a brand name.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHaine
If this machine does have Separate Parker stepper drives then it should be an easy upgrade. You'll most likely just need a breakout board and analog speed controller to provide 0-10V to Gemini.
If you do want or need an external motion controller to get away from parallel port then I'd suggest a better product than Smooth stepper which is from company called CSlabs and model number is CSMIO-IP-M.
This will be more suited to this type of upgrade due to using 24V I/O which this machine will probably use. It also provides analog speed output which could be used for the Gemini.
Another BIG plus is that it doesn't use or need a separate breakout board so very reliable. It's a very high quality product designed just for this type of retrofit.
If you post some details of the machine and if possible some high quality pics of inside the control cabinet we can see what you have or don't.
Hi thanks for the replies. You are correct jazz, I am upgrading the control electronics so I don't have to use the parallel port anymore, I was machining some 3d moulds and the parallel port could not transfer the data quick enough resulting in missed steps.
I was originally going to use the smoothstepper board, but I bought the csmio on someone's recommendation.
Seems like it will be a fairly easy conversion, I'm just looking for some moral support!
I will post some pictures of the electronics and the progress I have made so far. Shall I put it here or is it better to start a project thread in the retrofit section of the forum?
Im in the process of converting (well towards the latter part now) of converting my 260 VMC machine. i went down the new BOB and stepper driver route and am using the original spindle controller.
Its working well, except i have just dismantled mine to replace balls in the Y axis as its a bit slack.
I have the version with the auto tool changer (now not used) and air mist coolant and auto lube pump.
Pics are available here: https://flic.kr/p/rf37eX
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14917&stc=1
If you have any issues with wiring or need to trace it, and it is the same as mine in the images on my flickr album, ask me as i have been tracing the wiring and can help wire it up.
If it is the same, i may however ask if you could trace a wire for me! :) The door interlock and how it wires up the the spindle controller/emerg stop? and also the output from the 3 large resistors.
Thanks
Nat
......................
I tidied up the wiring in the back of the cabinet, I removed the Yasaka contactors as I don't need the CCW spindle functionality.
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14918&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14919&stc=1
Here are some close ups of the Power supply and Spindle Controller
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14920&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14921&stc=1
I am guessing that I can remove this relay as it would have been for the lights switch on the main front panel.
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14922&stc=1
Not sure what these resistors(?) are connected to...
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14923&stc=1
Hi Nat, I found the original Boxford control/boards and wiring very confusing so have stripped down the machine to just the bits I will be keeping,
I have found some information on the door interlock...
http://blog.ckdevices.com/?p=12
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...70.5/wap2.html
https://www.machsupport.com/forum/in...;topic=11590.0
It seems most people wire a connection across pins 3 and 9 on the speed controller to bypass the killswitch, I would guess that you could wire your E-Stop and door microswitch in series between these two pins depending on if they are NO or NC.
Sorry cant help with the resistors, does your machine work without them wired up to anything?
Hiya, yes the wiring is confusing.
most of mine is in a pile along with original electronics.i have used some of the cables to retire up my machine.
i am using a BOB board as I said earlier in post. The one I used has a 10v speed out for the spindle so I didn't need the spindlev4 board I bouht in the end. I blew a BOB board prior so went and bought some new ones.
the dspindle lead 3 to 9 is for the door lock, but as I have wired it currently, it only stops the spindle and the machine still currently runs in axis so sure way to break tool bits! I have it going 3 to front control panel chocblock where it is wired into the door interlocks, then returns to pin 9. I'm sure there is some link to emergency stop I should put in but I need to investigate this.
the 3 resistors I believe reduced the current going into the power into the relays to stop them burning out when in operation.
the mains filter feeds supply to the spindle controller and the lights so your correct there.
2 big blue caps are wired together and provide 18v dc, the other is 28v dc, you can get rid of one of the 18v dc caps and just use 1.
the relay is for the lights. handy to keep hold of it to fit later on, as provides good lighting to the unit. However prob easier to fit lights on when machine is on and bypass relay, or to fit 24v Led lights and run off 18v? Again to run continuously.
the spindle sensor is an optical unit, and unless you have some custom electronics to display spindle speed, or wire it into your controller, it's not necessary.
on the spindle controller, the are 2 rotary dials which adjust the lowest speed, and highest speed. I set mine up when it was running, but be careful, as its mains! Looks like your cover isn't with the machine, the orange plastic cover.
ground from the mains is earthed to machine the big aluminium plate. Live goes from the input, to the key switch, then back to the reset fuse the green and red button thing on the side, then back down to filter and spindle. I have my complete wiring diagrams at work, so will add them to my Flickr pool for you to see.
will post this as I can then see what else you have said and I can reply again
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesgates1000
My resistors I have removed. They are connected to 28v and fed into the chocblock I believe they then went into the tool rotation circuit board and the boards in the electronics, but I didn't write these cables down post the chocblock, I forgot to do that one...
It is really good to have your emergency stop switch in, forgot to say that in the mains in, the emergancy stop has 3 connections switches. 2Nc and 1 no. The nc ones are red, no is green. One of the red switches are wired into the spindle mains supply to break mains power to the spindle controller. The other nc I have wired to the motor power so that the 28v to motors are killed so machine stops moving, but electronics are still powerd not the stepper drives. The no I have wired into my BOb so when it's pressed mach3 sees this as an emergancy stop.
the end stop electronic switches the small orange switches bolted onto x y and z, are important as the axis can ram into the metal frame of the axis, and potentially on the x it could let the ballnut off from the screw, although it would hit the chassis edge before, so... Yeah. They have 3 wires, black brown and blue, they are powered 10-36v so I power mine from 28v or was it 18.. The signal wire is connected to the switch input in your controller, and ground is put onto common ground.
Hi, thanks for the replies. I'll remove the resistors as I have taken the tool carousel off to make room for the monitor.
I have a homing switch fitted to each axis, forgot to label them in the pictures. Do you have hard limits set at the end of each axis or do you just use the homing position to set up software limits?
I have a pilz safety relay for my E-Stop chain, the CSMIO controller comes with a circuit diagram for setting it up. Ill post a picture when I have a chance.
I also have the same stepper drivers as you, the Parker SD3's, have you identified what colour cables are the step and Dir from the motors?
morning,
Im using new motor drivers MA860H ones and have completly removed the electronics.
I do know the pinouts for the older drivers but i have placed them somewhere. I do believe there is an image with pinouts taped to the connector, but i cant locate it unless i search this forum. will take a look.
With regards to the stepper motor step and direction cables from the motor, do you mean what are the col pairs from the motors? or mean the step and dir signal to the stepper drivers?
I have now finished converting my VMC 260 and its working!
I have many pictures upa t my flickr site:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/236095...57650478167880
I think that link works... just search Flickr for 'Roboteernat' if not.
I used the spindle controller already in the unit and have it wired so its only one direction, but have left in the reverse option should I use my spindle controller board.
I will write a bit more details, but take a look at my flickr stream to get an idea.
Feel free to PM me and say hi
Nat
Nat
I have recently acquired one of these drives. Does anyone know what power output they have? I could also do with inputs and outputs.
Thanks
Luc
Hiya, What drive do you have? If it is stock from boxford, then you will want to look at getting a new breakout board and wiring that in with some new stepper drivers.Quote:
Originally Posted by LucD
If that i sthe case, these are the stepper drivers i use: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DM860I-Di...YAAOSw1QpZ5ZIL
after upgrading from MA860H as i was able to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durable-M...wAAOSwVVlcxsbL
Both work fine.
The breakout board, i used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-5-Axi...IAAOSwgvVdOIPz This worked well but i had to change to:
I then changed to this one to have a charge pump on the board to stop any problems with our H&S board. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engraving...-/162783086981
If you have something else, please advise.
Im running Mach3 with these and have just installed an Ethernet smoothstepper.
Hi thanks for the info. My machine has the GEC spindle controller. I'm trying to get some info on that. The spindle has burnt out and I can't get that power that the board it supposed to to replace it. Or the spindle power.
Thanks again
Something like this then? http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7037-...oxford-260-VMCQuote:
Originally Posted by LucD
If your spindle has gone, then it may be best to replace it with a new spindle. the GEC spindle can only do 3000k rpm max - mine is gec and i can only get to 2000!
so if you look to replace it with a new spindle you can get 17k rpm and faster machineing times. You can get these on ebay cheap second hand. Although it will be a bit costly if you go for a 3 phase one, with VFD
Same controller exactly. Its works machine, I have a motor lined up but need to know the max current output of the controller. The motor itself is a higher speed one so ought to do 5000 rpm
Im not too sure on the specs of the controller, i would just google it to help you find that out. Can i ask what spindle you have? incase i want to upgrade mine later?Quote:
Originally Posted by LucD
You can, its a bit of a frankenmotor,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboteernat
I had an old dc treadmill motor, machined a new front plate for it and bearing housing and assembled the lowest resistance motor i could out of the armatures with the most powerful magnets. I have tested the motor and can get 1.2kW out of it. But could do with finding what the drive can provide.
The bigger improvement i have done was to change the pulleys and belt to have a higher speed on the spindle. if i was to do it again though i would butcher one of the 400Hz Chinese 3 phased spindle motors and fit one of them. Then get higher speed and higher torque.