those £55 usb bob's and those £5 tb6560 drivers pic for scale of them = tiny!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psbee1910f.jpg

Hopefully they are the size they mentioned in the advert and that isnt a surprise to you. Are you still trying to fit them into that little box you posted a while back?

Mind how you go on the voltage and current settings on those drivers.

If I can make a comment on your posts - is everything ok with this project?

There are lots of helpful souls on here who will save you wasting hard earned cash. Posting something like I want to achieve xxx and I've already bought yyy. Can any of these bits help me or do I need to revise xxx or purchase alternative yyy bits. If I've got the wrong end of the stick and things are ticking alone then apologies - not easy to tell on a forum.

Good luck with it all.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Hopefully they are the size they mentioned in the advert and that isnt a surprise to you. Are you still trying to fit them into that little box you posted a while back?

Mind how you go on the voltage and current settings on those drivers.

If I can make a comment on your posts - is everything ok with this project?

There are lots of helpful souls on here who will save you wasting hard earned cash. Posting something like I want to achieve xxx and I've already bought yyy. Can any of these bits help me or do I need to revise xxx or purchase alternative yyy bits. If I've got the wrong end of the stick and things are ticking alone then apologies - not easy to tell on a forum.

Good luck with it all.

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Very tactfully put.:highly_amused: ..Clive

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

There are lots of helpful souls on here who will save you wasting hard earned cash. Posting something like I want to achieve xxx and I've already bought yyy. Can any of these bits help me or do I need to revise xxx or purchase alternative yyy bits.

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Ye and try asking the question in the Post instead of in the Thread Title.!! . . . . . . If folks are too lazy to type and ask in proper manner why would anyone bother replying.!!

I can't make the majic smoke yet as the motors havn't arrived.

i think I am safe with the 24v psu
2.8a nema 23's
3.0-3.5 drivers

if not i'll use the 17's

i think its great you can get a usb 5 axis bob for 55 quid
3 drivers for 15 pounds
3 nema 23's for 60 quid
and a 24 v psu for 20
total
£150 to your door.

need to buy some rail next.
i think I only need 15mm thk stuff - whats the hiwin stuff like.
does anyone in the uk grind rail in that size?

Yes it is great but this is going to be an expensive porridge stirrer. Hiwin is good stuff, but why stop at 15mm?

There's a voice in my head saying "don't feed the troll"...

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irving2008

There's a voice in my head saying "don't feed the troll"...

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Crossed my mind too.! . . . . But I won't answer or help people who Can't be arsed to ask properly anyway so no matter.:eagerness:

If I can make a comment on your posts - is everything ok with this project?

No, I simply cannot fathom how to change the standard cartesian x/y positioning into H-plot gantry co-ordinates

I have discovered that it is possible to drive a H-plot gantry system with MARLIN firmware and a RAMPS 1.4 controller on an ARDUINO MEGA 2564 with a wireless receiver lcd doofer, so I have ordered all of that, BUT and I retreat 'under the bridge' awaiting your barrage due to pressing the b.i.n button before realising that I simply cannot import a graphics based .dxf or a .hpgl into the marlin/slicer pronteface stuff, as it will only take an .STL file format.

bugger I say!!

I simply want a little plasma machine to put into my car and take to the compressor/workshop/plasma machine.

I do however like the idea of sending the g-code file to the controller LCD wireless, then pressing go on the LCD.

OH - yes the idea is to make a little H-plot table in one peice, 4 motors in each corner, nema 17's - 4 drivers - one for each motor, as I have been advised it is not good practise to simply affix two motors to one drive, then two drivers to x on the bob and two to y, closed loop belt so I can pluck and tune the tension on the belt.

ALSO having trouble ordering pulleys, I now know I want HTD 5m 9mm belted pulleys in 20 tooths - worked that one out after buying a fair few......... 360 divided by 200 steps = 1.8, simply times by 20 teeth = 36 again!!!

anyways the problems I am having is vendors list them for example '5mm pilot bore' so I simply assumed they were bored all the way through at 5mm - plus the pics show them to be already grub screwed, of which they are not, they are simply drilled a few mm deep at 5mm - - pilot bore.

so what I want now is four 20 toothen HTD pulleys 5mm pitched 9mm belt, bored for 5mm with grub screws.
also want the above in 6.35mm
Is there anyone who can help me bore them and drill and tap them for me? as I don't have a lathe

also want the above in 25mm but maybe 8mm bore, I don't know yet

t seems they simply do not make a 20 toothen 8m HTD pulley 20mm wide.

You clearly have a way to go before you understand any of the components that you are trying to string together. On the hardware side - why are you trying to use an H-bot at all? Do you have any sound reason to choose this layout? Have you thought that the reason that no motion control software apart from those designed to run 3D printers supports H-bot layouts is because H-bot motion is really not very well suited to any kind of heavy-duty work? The main advantage is to reduce the weight of the carriage by taking the motors off it - and then you're going to bolt on a plasma cutting head plus all its connections?

On the software side, if you don't understand yet all the stages from initial design, output in DXF, conversion to g-code, and g-code to mechanical motion, then there's a bit of reading you need to do there.

Is it possible that you haven't had any sensible answers on any of the other forums where you have been asking the same question because no-one can understand where you are coming from, and they don't want to talk to someone who goes out and buys a pile of kit that is entirely unsuitable for what we are guessing you want to do?

There are plenty of people on this forum who could help, but no-one's heard a sensible question yet.

Well, OK, I'm going to stick my neck out here and answer the question in the first line of your last post. No, absolutely nothing is OK with this project. You are buying the wrong kit to build the wrong design, and the chances of you getting it to work, given your current level of knowledge, are so small as to be non-existent. Take a look through the build logs, and in particular the recent one on building a plasma table. That will show you what a successful machine looks like. Start from there, and start thinking about how you might scale it up/down/sideways to do whatever it is you want to do. Unfortunately, what you've posted so far is about as likely to get you help as a request for a perpetual motion engine.

BTW, you haven't looked too hard for the pulleys you say you need. Try here, for example. But you probably don't need them...

A big part of any learning curve is to investigate how others have gone about achieving your aims.
If you have a fixed plan for all aspects of a project you have concieved and find that when you ask for help in getting it to work you universally get suggestions for alternate designs it's either that no-one understands or its that they do understand very well ;-)
The fact that no one has made a Chocolate Fire Guard doesn't necessarily mean it's a not good idea but it should give you pause for thought, lots of pause and lots of thought,
ATB,
Nick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by magicniner

A big part of any learning curve is to investigate how others have gone about achieving your aims.
If you have a fixed plan for all aspects of a project you have concieved and find that when you ask for help in getting it to work you universally get suggestions for alternate designs it's either that no-one understands or its that they do understand very well ;-)
The fact that no one has made a Chocolate Fire Guard doesn't necessarily mean it's a not good idea but it should give you pause for thought, lots of pause and lots of thought,
ATB,
Nick

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yes, its a pickler.....
I think I have fathomed the crux - I was under the impression that the post-processor 'sheet-cam' exchanged the cartisian 'standard x/y' co-ordinates and generated the g-code specifically for a h-plot gantry. It now appears to me that in fact it has nothing to do with post processing for g-code, PLUS then
has nothing to do with converting the G-code into step pulses - AND THAT its all to do with the
break out board interpolating the whatsnames for motion control. its the break -out bored firmware that
does the majic, I.E. with an arduino controller fitted with a ramps 1.4 break - out board, you simply load
the h-plot firmware onto the ramps controller, it still receives cartesian co-ordination but simply outputs the pulses differently to the standard gantry system.
right so IF that is correct, you are simply restricted to nema 17's as the max juice you can pull through a ramps 1.4 board is 3a so basicallly a 12 volt psu arduino and little nema 17's - fine, but alas no good for me
What the rub is - is that the break-out boards for cnc that can draw 5a, 24/36v, nema 23's and 5a drivers are made where they are made, and the firmware on them is the thing that need to be altered - I can't do that as I am stoopid.


SO to re-cap my blown cap
EVEN though someones writted a 3d printer wizard extrusion doo-dah.
no one can make a 4 foot square, nema 23, 5 amp ,36 volt, htd 8m belted,24 toothen, h - plot gantried, three dimensional goo squirter as the firmware for the usb break - out boards don't exist.

I simply want a h-plot .hpgl plasma plotter 2 foot square and 4 inches high, with a magnetically detatchable hinged plasma torch and small control box, so that I can pick it up and carry it.

I did try lifting my 500mm square tard gantry minus the z axis and motors and still split my trousering.

overview:
The market is too small to manufacture a 5 axis usb 5a break out board with specific h-plot firmware.
OR no one can be arsed to re-write the existing firmware for a 5a bob
OR its impossible to do.

thank you
p.s. by the time I have lashed together this thing and bent over the six inch nails tight enough hopefully someone will have done the business.

anyplops, the IDEAL is simply a 24volt brick psu.
a combined usb h-plot bob and drivers in a vented and cooled box with the motor output connectors on the board sticking through the box 4 pin and earth.

then the motor manufacturers to 'simply' supply the motors with sheilded cables straight from the motor cap/bearing housing, with the corresponding plug to the board.

I must admit I am an advocate of keeping the mains away from the control box, I don't know why though.

oh and to end on a good note... now I know its impossible I can refrain from asking again!!!

Still asking questions that no-one understands, and not listening to any of the answers...
Try a question like, "Could someone point me at a beginner's guide to the relationship between post-processors, gcode, motion control, BOB, and drivers?" Until you understand that, you won't understand why no-one is ever going to build a "5-axis USB 5A break-out board with H-bot firmware" - or indeed why a "5-axis USB 5A break-out board" doesn't exist, or indeed whether or not such a hypothetical device might or might not have firmware in it, or why talking about a ".hpgl h-plot" device is a non-starter from the very outset.