Anyone know where I could get a >7" (190mm)x >1-3/8" (35mm) machinable steel disc at a sensible price?Either a slice from a large bar or a profiled disc.A piece of scrap would do fine.
Printable View
Anyone know where I could get a >7" (190mm)x >1-3/8" (35mm) machinable steel disc at a sensible price?Either a slice from a large bar or a profiled disc.A piece of scrap would do fine.
I buy 6" x 23mm blanks from parkers, not bought one, but I only buy half a dozen at a time. you can get a price off their website.
If you find anywhere cheaper let me know, I need some 7.25+inches by 24mm thick EN24 to make some flywheels for my bike engine.
Best place I have found for alloy steels is Mccreadys at Rugby
http://www.macreadys.co.uk/
Is this what you mean for flywheels :whistle:
http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk.../milltray3.jpg
.
.
That's the sort of thing.
They were only mild steel plate EN3B and nothing exotic as they were for an old vintage JAP engine and replaced two cast iron flywheels.
My take was that if the CI ones had lasted 60 years then the steel one stood an equal chance, in which case I wouldn't be around to have to fix them :heehee:
.
Yes it's an old motor. Needs which needs new pinions and new crankpin, I could repair the original flywheels[they are forgings] and recover the pinons. But it's not much more work to make new flywheels and pinions? It would be rude not to stroke it. I will be able to use cheaper bearings, which will probably pay for the material and heat treatment. Stroking it is going to mean paring the area around the pin down quite a bit to balance it, so the extra expense of an alloy steel over EN8 is probably worth it.
Oh well, I wanted the steel for to make a former for my brother's tube bender...
During the meanwhilest, Dick (the brother) has welded three 1/2" hot rolled plates together and ask me to turn a 7/8" radius into that :rolleyes:
I had to make the radius turning tool out of odds and sods (so don't take the P*** ). The fabricated plate turns quite well, except it has hard spot where it's been heated by the weld, making chatter over small random areas (very odd).
The pics were taken about 0.1" from complete.
Nothing wrong with that Bill, looks fine to me.
I'd do it exactly the same way, probably a slight variation on the tool but the end solution would be almost identical.
.
Bill, for the sake of the uninitiated (i.e. me, but a few others here i suspect) can you explain how the radius turning tool works and how you made it?Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTodd
Well, the bearing block is (I think) part of a motorcycle hub; I fitted a couple of 5/8" centred ball races and turned it down to fit the clamp (the right-angled bit) from my home-brew T&C grinder. The clamp is bolted to another steel plate drilled to fit the tool-post bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
The tool is a broken solid carbide PCB drill, re-shaped into a pointed lathe tool. It fits into a cross drilled hole in the main 5/8" vertical bar clamped in place by a grub screw. The radius (7/16" in this case) is pre-set by the tool over hang.
The 'design' is determined by the semi-circular profile required and the size (7" diameter) of the part. It has to hang off the compound 'cos the Hardinge cross-slide will not fit under the part.
It's simple to use; once the tool is centred on the part, the cross-slide if fed in by 10-15thou then the tool is turned with the handle AKA 4" allan bolt :) - Repeat 'til complete.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oR3QTDLpcI"]YouTube - radiusturning[/ame]
i liiikkeee !