Build Log - Herbert

[nairepooc]

Well I have spent the last week reviewing many members builds on here and I have to say I have a lot more knowledge than when I started this build.
The cabinet builds of @EddyCurrent, @RouterCNC, @m_c and the various comments made by @JazzCNC along with the main person responding to my thread @Neale.
I am away for a few weeks R&R so plan to create my schematics during this time.
Viso will be my software of choice so once I have something that people and comment/advise me on then it will be posted.
Once again reading others post has given me great information and thank you for sharing your builds.

Ian

[A_Camera]

This is my planned layout for the panel of my CNC control.

This is a proposed wiring layout which I would like comments from people please?


Many thanks for taking the time to look.

ATB,
Ian

Perhaps it is too late now, but here are some things I'd do differently...

I would move that VFD out of the cabinet. You will likely experience some problems with the UC300 in the middle and so near the VFD. The other alternative to moving out the VFD is to move out the UC300 into it's own shielded box.

The other modification I'd do is to install the PSUs in an orientation which would allow the fans to cool and would allow easier wiring. As it is now, you can't stick a screw driver inside the cabinet to attach/detach wires, you have to remove each PSU, screw in all the wires and install the PSU in the cabinet again. That is going to create some practical problems and may result in a not so nice wiring in the end.

A question... are you planning to feed the UC300 with an external +5V? I think that's better than using the PC USB power. Make sure your +5V is very clean otherwise you may experience problems with the UC300. The other thing is that if you want to control the VFD spindle speed with 0-10V you can do that from the UC300 directly, but if you will use Mach3, or some other software with Modbus capabilities than a neater solution is to use the RS485. Considerably better than digital outputs and 0-10V, also demands less and easier wiring.

[nairepooc]

Perhaps it is too late now, but here are some things I'd do differently...

I would move that VFD out of the cabinet. You will likely experience some problems with the UC300 in the middle and so near the VFD. The other alternative to moving out the VFD is to move out the UC300 into it's own shielded box.

The other modification I'd do is to install the PSUs in an orientation which would allow the fans to cool and would allow easier wiring. As it is now, you can't stick a screw driver inside the cabinet to attach/detach wires, you have to remove each PSU, screw in all the wires and install the PSU in the cabinet again. That is going to create some practical problems and may result in a not so nice wiring in the end.

A question... are you planning to feed the UC300 with an external +5V? I think that's better than using the PC USB power. Make sure your +5V is very clean otherwise you may experience problems with the UC300. The other thing is that if you want to control the VFD spindle speed with 0-10V you can do that from the UC300 directly, but if you will use Mach3, or some other software with Modbus capabilities than a neater solution is to use the RS485. Considerably better than digital outputs and 0-10V, also demands less and easier wiring.

Nothing is ever written in stone, the one is a porposed idea and the second which looks like its fixed was laying out the components to see what it looked like.
Things have moved on since then, I now am using din rail with 5vdc and 24vdc psu's the two 36vdc psu's are going to be mounted flat one above the other, loads of room to do that.
The VFD will be in the enclosure, with double screened cables and fed via an emi 10A filter.
The UC300 & BOB have been relocated at the bottom of the case well away from the VFD.
All screens and earths to a star earth point.
I will upload photos of all the component laters.

[nairepooc]

Well back of the olde Jolly Holidays, and its back to working through things.
I have found out that I cannot control the VFD via Mach with the current BOB, so need to swap for the CPO-10V from CNC4YOU.
I have in my minds eye how the control cabinet layout is going to be, but just to be on the safeside I have drawn some shapes in Viso and moving them around to see what's best. (I know no CAD, but me thinks I must learn one).
The pencil drawings of the main machine do not allow me much way of checking things plus it takes ages to drawin with pencil and paper so I guess I must bite the bullet and decide on a CAD package to start to learn and work my scribbed designs through.

That will give you guys something to comment on and advise me on what I am trying to build.
TTFN

[A_Camera]

Well back of the olde Jolly Holidays, and its back to working through things.
I have found out that I cannot control the VFD via Mach with the current BOB, so need to swap for the CPO-10V from CNC4YOU.
I have in my minds eye how the control cabinet layout is going to be, but just to be on the safeside I have drawn some shapes in Viso and moving them around to see what's best. (I know no CAD, but me thinks I must learn one).
The pencil drawings of the main machine do not allow me much way of checking things plus it takes ages to drawin with pencil and paper so I guess I must bite the bullet and decide on a CAD package to start to learn and work my scribbed designs through.

That will give you guys something to comment on and advise me on what I am trying to build.
TTFN

But the UC300 has a 0-10V output also. Why do you need the BoB for that? Use the analog output of the UC300.

[nairepooc]

But the UC300 has a 0-10V output also. Why do you need the BoB for that? Use the analog output of the UC300.

Hi,
If you read the UC300 manual in the Safety Notes it advises the connection through and Optically Isolated Breakout Board (BOB) to motor drives and external sensors!

Thats whay I am buying the CPO-10V as recommended by CNC4YOU.
Unless anyone else can offer something?

[njhussey]

My earth terminals look like this. I'm assuming that most use the same principle in that they earth to the DIN rail, in which case your top DIN rail is earthed through the allthread to your panels back plate. If your's don't earth to the DIN rail then you're OK

[nairepooc]

Hi Neil,

Ah there lies in the issue.
I ordered Yellow standard DIN rail connectors and coloured them with a Green sharpie.
Therefore I have a plastic bottom and on contact to the DIN rail.
Sorry for the confussion guys