Project Beaver

[OMLCNC]

On the subject of detail and having just been working on this bit - I would change your gantry end plates a bit. I had almost that exact design at one stage but changed it to an end plate and a separate plate connecting the ballnut to the end plate (see my last post on my thread if your not sure what I mean). Lining everything up can seem easy in sketchup but as Dean says the DIY factor certainly strikes when your in the real world and you will want to be able to adjust things easily when you are trying to align the screw to the rail.

I will be doing that then Joe, As all my sketchup learning and practice was done by copying your drawings from your build log on page 15, hence why you recognise the design!
I now realise why you have changed the design, I was begining to ponder the frame building / gantry fitting together problems but see you have the answer.

Many thanks again for the advice.

[JoeHarris]

Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!


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[OMLCNC]

Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!

I see that from your build log.

Some I have, Metal lathe, Mig & Stick welder, chop saw, bandsaw, pillar drill. Plus all my woodworking machinery. (I wonder if I could put aluminium plate thru a speed sander?).
I haven’t budgeted anything for additional tools, but basically I am lucky and can justify it on the business. I like your ideas on machining aluminium with basic tools and will be having a go myself.

[JAZZCNC]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

[JoeHarris]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

Bugger.


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[JoeHarris]

Bugger.


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You way is better Dean but I have thought about this... the bolts which connect the end plates to the plates on the x rail bearings can be loosened and shimmed... not as easy but hopefully possible!?


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[OMLCNC]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

[JAZZCNC]

So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

Yes make the plate just little longer than needed so can get some bolts on back side. This is Cad of machine just built using the same setup not got any pics of real thing but can take some tomorrow if you want to see it.
This is R&P machine and the Gantry needs to able to be removed for access to building but wanted to leave the Motors etc in place so minimal setup when replacing.



Edit: Found this on my phone if zoom in can see the plates.

[MikeyC38]

Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!


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So true! JoeHarris I dread to think what I've spent on tools. I have kept the receipts for everything so one day I will total the costs. For example, just bought one of the Pro-Tram units to tram the spindle on my machine. 90 quids worth but it does make it easy!

Top tip for tapping threads in Ali extrusion - use a spiral tap in an electric hand drill. Saves a LOT of time!

Regards
Mike

[JAZZCNC]

Clive is correct that you want toroidal transformer around 70Vdc but don't go buying one as they are expensive and often don't have the required current so need two.
We or I can talk you thru specing and building one easy enough. They are simple things to build and don't require degree in electronics.

Re: HOMES/LIMITS. The IP-M will happily work with either NPN or PNP. However if sharing Home and Limit each axis must be on it's own INPUT. This doesn't matter if one SW Traveling or one fixed at each end.
Whether to use traveling SW or FIxed is matter or preference. My preference is traveling because it's simpler requires less SW Less Wires with Less chance of interference from noise etc.

To add to your list is 24Vdc Contactor. This is for switching the Toroidal transformer on. Contactors handle the Inrush current much better than Relay.
You will however still need relay for Reset/E-stop Latching safety system. This relay will do several things one of which is turning on the 24Vdc Contactor.

You will also require Momentery Push button for the latching Reset system. Also suggest Green LED to show Control is Reset and drives ON.
Also 240V Mains ON/OFF Switch and again RED Led. Optional is EMI filter but for sake of £8-10 worth fitting one. Also put separate one on the VFD if using Spindle with VFD.