Project Beaver

[OMLCNC]

Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!

I see that from your build log.

Some I have, Metal lathe, Mig & Stick welder, chop saw, bandsaw, pillar drill. Plus all my woodworking machinery. (I wonder if I could put aluminium plate thru a speed sander?).
I haven’t budgeted anything for additional tools, but basically I am lucky and can justify it on the business. I like your ideas on machining aluminium with basic tools and will be having a go myself.

[JAZZCNC]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

[JoeHarris]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

Bugger.


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[JoeHarris]

Bugger.


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You way is better Dean but I have thought about this... the bolts which connect the end plates to the plates on the x rail bearings can be loosened and shimmed... not as easy but hopefully possible!?


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[JAZZCNC]

You way is better Dean but I have thought about this... the bolts which connect the end plates to the plates on the x rail bearings can be loosened and shimmed... not as easy but hopefully possible!?

In your case then yes Joe about the only thing you can do. But this just highlights another less than ideal situation with this approach.?
The gantry isn't bolted into the bearing plates and completely relying on the end plates to stop twist etc. Also not being securely bolted to the plates leaves gaps which can vibrate and introduce place for resonance.

Adjust is important but equaly so is being securely bolted and secured. Having one doesn't mean can't have the other just requires some careful thought and planning.

[JoeHarris]

In your case then yes Joe about the only thing you can do. But this just highlights another less than ideal situation with this approach.?
The gantry isn't bolted into the bearing plates and completely relying on the end plates to stop twist etc. Also not being securely bolted to the plates leaves gaps which can vibrate and introduce place for resonance.

Adjust is important but equaly so is being securely bolted and secured. Having one doesn't mean can't have the other just requires some careful thought and planning.

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[JAZZCNC]

Joe please don't stress too much over this. My comments where more to help others avoid similair issues and not to pull you down or have you start with major redesign etc.

Now you have it done this way then I'd suck it and see. If the gantry is long way from square then you may need to do some shimming. Anything you can do to make sure Y axis is 90Deg to X axis the better. Try to avoid using the screws to square the gantry as it will put binding on the bearings etc.

[OMLCNC]

Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . .

So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

[JAZZCNC]

So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

Yes make the plate just little longer than needed so can get some bolts on back side. This is Cad of machine just built using the same setup not got any pics of real thing but can take some tomorrow if you want to see it.
This is R&P machine and the Gantry needs to able to be removed for access to building but wanted to leave the Motors etc in place so minimal setup when replacing.



Edit: Found this on my phone if zoom in can see the plates.

[OMLCNC]

Some progress to report. I have ordered the Rails and carriages, ball screws and bearings for the XYZ Axis from BST Automation. They say 7 Days to deliver - that's a bit frightening!

I have ordered the steel for the frame, all cut to size. (I have trouble getting 7.5 meter lengths down my lane, it has a sharp bend on it and hostile neighbours).

I think I'm ready to order some 20mm aluminium tooling plate which I think I will have cut to size. (extra £20) I have large bandsaw and TCT saw and cut off saw but I think first time I'll get them to do it. (They say +/- 0.2mm accuracy).

The next thing I'm onto and have read lots but would like advice on is the Stepper motors, drivers, motion controller and all the electrical parts I require for my build.

I will start with my guesses and advice so far on what is required.

X Axis - Nema34 8.7Nm High torque Stepper Motor 1.8 Deg. (Driving 2 x RM2020 Ball screws by 2:1 pulley)
Y Axis - Nema23 4Nm Stepper Motor (Driving RM1605 Ballscrew by 2:1 pulley)
Z Axis - Nema23 4Nm Stepper Motor (Driving RM1605 Ballscrew by 1:1 pulley)

3 x Stepper Drives (Leadshine 2-phase High-precision stepper drive AM882 fit NEMA 23-34 mode motor work 36-80VDC out 1.0A-8.2A)

1 x Motion Controler (CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller (STEP/DIR) )http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...-step-dir.html

From this diagram I reckon I need some other things:

1 x 24V DC Power Supply?
1 x 80V DC Power Supply?
1 (or more) x Estops?
6? x Limit switches/Sensors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LJ12A3-4-Z...c=1&rmvSB=true
Some fuses?
Some relays?
2 x Fans?
1 x Enclosure to put it all in?

You can see I'm getting out of my depth on the old Electrical front (Black Magic)
So over to you chaps. Thanks