Tank3d printer build

[Boyan Silyavski]

Boyan,

there is only one extruder worth using. It is also worth going direct drive on such a large build.

The Bondtech extruders are E3D compatible so at least that is a good start.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...ndtech-qr-3-0/

Thanks for pointing me there! I will probably contact you as i need some quality components.


I will greatly appreciate your input if you are kind enough to share info.


But about the extruder:

-First of all its a proprietary extruder, not open source, so no place in my build. Why? Obviously to make my printer i will use open source electronics, hotend, etc. So roughly said- i am basing on other peoples work half of the printer. Isn't it a better thing to buy their products to sponsor them continue the investigation? I think so.

-Even if its the best extruder on the market and probably very nice to resale as a high end extruder with a good mark up value, i dont think thats the correct extruder for the build. Though for special order build or for a desired upgrade i could eventually use it.

-Third but not least- See, i will ask you a question. if i am to make a printer for resale, could you resale more easily that printer it it has 4 x Bondtech or a printer that has 4xextruders that do the same job 95% and are altogether combined cheaper than one of the Bondtech?

You will need to heat the bed to allow adhesion and reduce warping. Think about how you are going to acheive this on a 6mm surface.

400x200 bed. I was tempted to go 400x400 or even 500x500, but i decided that quality is better than quantity. First of all 2x 200x200 heating pads or elements will do the job cheaply. Then silicone heating pad may be . What i am contemplating is to use even 8-10mm plate, pocketed seriously from bottom and using heating wire directly or silicone pad there.

One thing is a must: the bed must not "breathe" and when pulling sth from bed machine must not need recalibration In fact- i will not accept to say that i did sth good if the machine will need any kind of later software adjustment and squaring of bed. Thats why i did not like the "raising Z design and shied away from it though people praise it. No way, its not my direction of design and thought. Even if i have to move the bed with 2 motors or a real servo motor to achieve the needed acceleration.

I have 3d printer from 3 days at home and have not seen or contemplated 3d printer design earlier. And the first thing that bugged me was pulling away the piece from the glass. I thought i will brake the bloody toy.

I could and possibly will use the way the Prusa does it with the touch probe, but better design everything so that is not actually needed.

PS:

bed heat insulation from below is a must also! and i will not shy from thermocontroller if need be. its just ~20 euros altogether with SSR relay.




Questions:

-If the printer is fully enclosed, do i need to cool the things down inside the enclosure somehow? I am not talking about the electronics. But do the electronics support that function? or just leave a hole so air circulates?



-Another question as i have 30x30 profile here and have never seen in real life 20x20 profile. Will it be ok for the gantry only one piece of 20x20 at high speeds? will it not vibrate? Thats my only doubt from structural point of view.


-haven't somebody come with super light direct drive helper combined with Bowden extruder solution? In real life i see the 4 spols in a dry box 1.5 meter away at least from printer. I dont see them hanging around and sucking humidity from air, and i live 200 meters from sea and this is a serious problem.

In fact from a couple of days i dont stop the air conditioner at all at home, because i still have not made myself a dry box for the filament

if not- too bad but anyway i dont care much about flexible filament, so Bowden drive will be