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  1. #1
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    It would depend what controller is fitted. I'd hazard a guess that it will be the later USB NextMove controller, but I've got no idea if it'll use the all in one daughter board like the smaller mills used, or if they'll of used separate drivers.
    Either way, it would be a case of working out what the step/dir pins are, and patching into them, while also making sure power and enables have been connected correctly.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  2. #2
    Making a bit more progress.

    Eyebolt didn't work out, it fouls the casting and cant be screwed in. Resorted to using a crowbar on the legs of the stand and got it moved enough to get the backplate off.
    Managed to get some photos of the main components. I'm guessing this is the main motion controller board.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Power distribution (????)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Stepper drivers

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The stepper drivers appear to be labelled XLT50-S which should help me identify the wiring diagram to use.

    My plan is to replace the motion controller with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EU-Stock-4...MAAOSwjDZYde-j

    According to some documentation I have found online (http://www.parker.com/parkerimages/e...ive_manual.pdf ) the driver design is at least 14 years old, on the basis of this i'm going to investigate the options for replacing the drivers with something more up to date, any recommendations?

  3. #3
    After spending hours on google I decided to go for Leadshine EM806 drivers from Zapp.... just placed the order.

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  5. #4
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    EM806s are good drives. Did you order a programming lead, as it makes setting them up easier?


    You'll need to study the wiring diagrams to work out what the power board does. I think some of the later Triacs used something similar, and some of the relays are used as interlocks, to ensure critical things weren't solely controlled by the controlled.
    The top board is the later controller. Smaller machines used the in built stepper drivers in the lower board. If everything was still connected, you could possibly try powering it up and see what shows up on the 7 segment display. It would give an indication of if there was anything major wrong with the original controller.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  6. #5
    Well only two years later and my mill has become my primary project and I have made some progress.

    I have the RMHV controller hooked up to the EM806 drives connected to the original steppers. I have also connected the home switches. I have used the original power supply and relay board for this.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This gives me the following good things.

    1) Movement on all three axis
    2) Control of all three axis using either the buttons on the controller or a MPG pendant
    3) Homing set up.

    What isn't so good is
    1) the z axis brake is errrr .... broken (I managed to loose the spring that applies the brake)
    2) More of an issue is I let the smoke out of the spindle dc driver. The good news is they are still available off the shelf the bad news is they cost about 200 quid....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a replacement (https://www.transdrive.co.uk/shop/pr...q-non-isolated) and I'm in the process of wiring it up.

    To start with I have copied the settings (potentiometers and dip switches) from the old board but I'm now beginning to doubt the wisdom of this as the old board died on me and at some point previous to me finding it on a scrap heap someone has written the word BAD on the heatsink.

    I'll need to find some info on the motor as the old board is set for max voltage of 50V which seems a bit low (ISTR Triacs go up to 180V). I'm also trying to figure out how to use the 0-10v output from the RMHV controller to set the speed as I'm not sure if I need some form of isolation between the two.

    Hopefully I'm not too far from being able to cut some chips although I'm starting to think that I might be better off using MACH3/4 or Linux CNC rather than the rather limited RMHV controller.

  7. #6
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 3,345. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 83 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    I'll need to find some info on the motor as the old board is set for max voltage of 50V which seems a bit low (ISTR Triacs go up to 180V). I'm also trying to figure out how to use the 0-10v output from the RMHV controller to set the speed as I'm not sure if I need some form of isolation between the two.
    I have just converted a Novamill that seems to have had the same control board. I used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111654184682 and a small 230V ac to 15V V DC power supply https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/26304063959...r=562044038463 so to keep the isolation from the motor control board.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  8. #7
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    I have just converted a Novamill that seems to have had the same control board. I used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111654184682 and a small 230V ac to 15V V DC power supply https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/26304063959...r=562044038463 so to keep the isolation from the motor control board.
    I think the RMHV is essentially the same as the DDCSV, and I don't think there is an option to use step/dir for spindle control. And I don't think the 0-10V is isolated. The only way you could get it to work with a non-isolated drive would be with a 0-10V to 0-10V isolator, but they aren't common or cheap (IIRC the last time I looked they were upwards of £150).
    The easier option would of been to get an isolated Sprint drive, however experience has taught me the motors on these are far more likely to fail and cause the speed controller to fail, rather than the controller to fail.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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