Thread: Sieg SX2.7 CNC conversion
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08-02-2017 #1
Hmmm. Apparently my prior reply was sent to oblivion.
It went something like this:
Thanks for passing on the additional info. I'm reading the Hossmachine guide now. Can you share any part numbers on the screws that worked for you? Did you just match the length and diameter of the existing, and they fit without complication? I've read stories of conversions that required specific modifications to the screws itself, and it appears to be pain working with the hardened material, as well as a risk of warping the screw in the process. Any specific links you can share to point me to parts that worked for you would be welcome.
Below is a link to YouTube video by a gent in Australia. He made some slick kit for his x2.7 using his CNC router to cut fancy parts. Thanks again for your help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb_URlTUj8A
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08-02-2017 #2
The ballnut type is the same as the Australian.
Ballscrew, 16mm, bog standard chinese stuff.
300mm long for the Y
600mm long for the X
500mm long for the Z
But note that each length is a little longer than the above, for the bearings, thread, nut, etc.
Best to get the mill and then measure up. Bear in mind that if you get it in the US, the mill table and other specs may differ a little. I only had to cut the very end of the floating Y ballscrew, about 9mm off the end. I used an angle grinder and it cut in about a minute. You can also use the Dremel with a little cutting disk, but it will take longer and the cut won't be as clean, so you just use a file to flatten the finish. The ballscrew won't bend unless you force it. I just clamped it gently with some protection and only the very end of the ballscrew was exposed. I bought a cheap angle grinder for this, scary to use the first time, but actually it was a lot easier than I thought. I looked like an astronaut with all the protection, but better safe than sorry:)
Edward
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08-02-2017 #3
Again, that's very helpful & appreciated. The comments I read by people modifying their screws involved annealing the end they needed to modify -- not just cutting it short, but turning a precise shoulder on it after getting it to length. That heating process seemed to be where the warping risk was, and if this conversion required anything that sporting, I'd pass on the experience ;)
And I'm with you -- better safe than sorry, even if the big boys make fun of me.
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13-03-2017 #4
Quick release drawbar for Tormach style tools.
The drawbar is accessible and can easily be pulled out by swinging the levers, as shown in the video.
Edward
Last edited by Edward; 13-03-2017 at 04:58 PM.
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13-03-2017 #5
Hi Edward,
that is an amazingly clean conversion!https://emvioeng.com
Machine tools and 3D printing supplies. Expanding constantly.
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13-03-2017 #6
Thank you! So far everything is working well.
The only problem I had with this quick tool change was that on one occasion the tool holder started to slip out as I cut with an 8mm endmill. The Bellevilles had been tighten by two full turns of the drawbar (after finger tightening) and it seems that the tool wasn't getting enough grip by the collet. So I increased the Belleville tightening to just over 3 turns of the drawbar, and now it seems to be gripping properly. These things always need a little fine tuning...
Edward
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11-06-2019 #7
Hi Edward do you have a set of plans available as sx2.7 conversion kits are not available in UK mostly USA I have not seen any plans floating about on internet yet it would be wonderful if you could supply plans in pdf format or even better dfx if you can to help others
Thanks Andrew
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