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  1. #1

  2. #2
    Yes that's the kiddy!

    Probably not the right place to ask but...

    1. is that the same link?

    2. how did you post it?

    3. how do I add attachments and photos?

  3. #3
    Warco WM14 you can usually get away without having to machine the underside of the table.

    Warco WM16 is borderline some clear, some don't.

    Warco WM18 you always have to machine the table.

    The problem comes about from droop when casting as they are cast top up.
    The longer the table, the slower it cools and gives rise to the middle dropping down under the weight of the metal.

    There are ways when casting to prevent this but seeing as it's not their remit to make sure they can convert to CNC then they don't bother.
    There is enough standard clearance for the manual ACME screws.
    John S -

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  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
    Warco WM14 you can usually get away without having to machine the underside of the table.

    Warco WM16 is borderline some clear, some don't.
    So maybe no machining needed...

    ....wouldn't it be simpler/safer if necessary to mill the groove in the saddle and drop the x axis screw supports by slotting the mounting holes to get upwards/ downwards clearance? Or is this not possible for some reason I can't see. (I'm working off a plan at the moment my mill should be here next week according to Warco.)

    Perhaps simpler to remake the x axis ballscrew supports with lowered bearing housings and at the same time incorporate motor mounts or standoffs...
    Last edited by noyloj; 09-01-2017 at 11:17 PM.

  6. #5
    And thinking about the metal de stressing it is probably quite as likely to give rise to deformation as cutting unless some way could be figured to hold the casting in shape whilst heating/cooling... beyond my home scope I think...

  7. #6
    In my case, a Sieg2.7 probably about the same size as yours I think, I machined the top of the ballnut flange a little , about 2.5mm, so I could still use the two top side holes of the flange, and this allowed the ballnut to fit under the table, so the table didn't need any machining at all. Then I had to machine the end side of the saddle (that's where the ballnut housing goes in my machine, I think yours may be in a different place) I just ground a little crescent concavity for the bottom of the ballnut to sit on.

    After doing that, the ballscrew had a clearance of about 2mm from the saddle, but unfortunatelly at the other end of the saddle, the clearance gradually diminished as the casting was irregular, not level. So I just had to groove that end a little to allow the ballscrew to clear by about 1 mm.

    When fitting the end plates, I found that the existing threads at both ends of the table were not tapped perpendicular, they were clearly askew, you do find surprises here and there, but you somehow work around them:)

    Although I feel your excitement, I think there is no point in planning anything too seriously until you actually get the mill, then you will be confronted by the real problems.

    For cutting the top end of the ballnut flange I used a little dremel cutting disc, ( took 5 minutes) but I think if I had had a proper grinder, it would've been done in no time.

    I too worried about the metal stress, but hopefully I didn't grind too much metal to cause any trouble.

    Edward
    Last edited by Edward; 09-01-2017 at 11:50 PM.

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  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post

    Although I feel your excitement, I think there is no point in planning anything too seriously until you actually get the mill, then you will be confronted by the real problems.

    For cutting the top end of the ballnut flange I used a little dremel cutting disc, ( took 5 minutes) but I think if I had had a proper grinder, it would've been done in no time.

    I too worried about the metal stress, but hopefully I didn't grind too much metal to cause any trouble.

    Edward
    Yes Edward, you are of course correct! My excitement is clearly palpable!

    I am of course nervous that I can convert this machine, having little hands on experience except with a tiny Proxxon some years ago. I guess I'm trying to figure out potential hurdles before I meet them, a little, so that I am not too overwhelmed when the machine finally arrives.

    I shall duly 'wind it in a bit' until the kit starts arriving and try to be less... well... just less!

    That said, my motion controller setup should be arriving any day now so prepare for the worst!

    Thanks for the info... it's what I had thought for mine, more or less. The yanks all seem to entirely cut out a section of the saddle to take the ballnut... perhaps it's won't be necessary your way.

    Ta Jo :)

  10. #8
    Just went to the web page copied the address and pasted it,not put many attachments into posts but think it's in the tools menu .
    Mike

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