Thread: Crap chinese router problems
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13-03-2017 #1
It wouldn't surprise me if it is twisted as like some one said it is mostly cast, Its defiantly not something I would purchase and shows the need to have good reliable electronics. If it was mine it would be in bits already and replace a lot of it or start again but its not and I'm just trying to help as much as I can.
we have been in contact with the supplier however the only manual we can get for the inverter in in Chinese, were that English scanned copy came from I have no idea and I have spend a good few hours searching and emailing around.
We have had anouther problem come up also now with the z axis going straight up to the top and hitting the home/limit switch as soon as you start any file, even ones that we have run before and this problem happened over night between turning it off and restarting it the next day so think the vfd may be the least of our worries.Last edited by charlieuk; 13-03-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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13-03-2017 #2
This is the down side to taking the Chinese route.. . . It's lottery, one with lot more losers than winners.!!! . . . . The mechanicals can be tweaked and sorted to some degree but the electronics are junk in which case best starting again if want complete peace of mind/reliabilty.
Like the Old saying "can't make silk purse out of sows Ear" so advise friend not to try. Bite the bullet and re-fit with decent electronics.
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14-03-2017 #3
If I were you (or the owner) I would take my losses and go elsewhere. Buy a Hitachi or Bosch, Allen Bradley, Schneider Electric or some other REAL brand. You have wasted so much time on this that it is unbelievable. If I were the buyer of that crap I would have complained, and claimed my money back or some serious compensation. Sending a manual in Chinese is totally unacceptable and a very arrogant gesture, it means that the supplier/manufacturer is totally unreliable and is an idiot. A new VFD is not the end of the world, I paid less than £200 including delivery from UK to Sweden and after reading all the horror stories about cheap VFDs I certainly don't regret that decision and would do that again.
I am sorry that I can't help you out with Chinese, perhaps there are some forum members who can, though I think that the likelihood of finding one is higher on CNC Zone. Did you try Google translate? It may take time to produce something readable, but it may not be impossible.
This sounds like a problem with the setup or the code. Did you try Mach3? There is a free version which runs 200 (or something like that) lines of code and is fully usable for such tests.
Does the problem only happens when you run code, or also when jogging? Can you jog up and down without problems? Is it just one particular code or any code? Is the machine set to use inches and maybe the code is for millimetres?
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14-03-2017 #4
We were back at the machine last night, for some reasons as fast as the z axis problem came it has for now atleast gone away again. Still no real progress on the spindle but have managed to get in contact with a China man who is trying to find some info.
The grey cable in the vfd is just the cable to the second screen on the outside of the metal box.
The bed level thing still doesn't make sense to me, if it was twisted you would expect it to be out diagonally not even down the axis right? Not sure how well the pic shows it but it goes from smooth on the right to bumpy on the left but the bumps are even all the way down. Something is out but what.
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14-03-2017 #5
Ok. The spindle and the VFD.
So you have GDZ or similar 230V Spindle 3 phase?? right capable of 24k rpm????? + 230V 2 phase VFD
You have just a couple of buttons connected. I can not see from here which is which so you have to trace them and program them again, after you finish programming the spindle.
Ok, step by step:
-PR133 1 restore factory settings
-PR000 4
-PR001 4 / dont forget later to check buttons if connected properly
-PR003 1 / you will never need reverse run
-PR008 1
-PR027 220
-PR29 400
-PR033 400 / that possibly is not set right at the moment
-PR038 400
-PR039 0 / so motor works from 0 to 24k rpm, obviously no much torque when less than 3k rpm/
-PR040 10 / 3-5 is also ok for that motor, but 10sec to be on the safe side/
-PR104 to PR111 - check if you buttons are properly programmed, / start stop etc. You don tneed reverse, so use it for sth else/
So thats it. It should work ok now.
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15-03-2017 #6
cheers many thanks will try that next time I am up there!. the only things buttons on the box are a power switch, kill button and a second vfd panel.
many thanks
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15-03-2017 #7
I may be slowly convincing him to replace some of the electronic components at some point. however I'm not to sure what is actually needed as I didn't do much on my own cnc. From what I gather the stuff that is in there wont run on mach 3 at the moment and will only work with nc studio that it came with, would that be correct?
I found this video on you tube but not sure exactly how correct it is?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aW0E-0B5SB4
What would be the best plan of action to try and make the machine a little more reliable without spending too much and barring in mind we are in Australia so getting stuff here is a lot harder/more expensive than it is in the uk.
many thanks
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15-03-2017 #8
In reality ordered money wise :
A cheap chinese controller/ dont do that/
offline DDCSV1 controller, i use that and am pretty happy. No mach3, no crap. Not good for specific purposes like touch probing and similar, that could be done with mach3. But for normal machine is more than enough. I mean probing an object, not touch probe for finding 0 which is fine.
PMDX controller or CNC4PC or Pokeys57CNC / had problems with that one and my servos, many people are happy/
UCCNC may be better solution from what i hear in forums , at least the controller. The thing is then it need breakout board
Then CSMIO-M
Then over 600$...
In fact on your part in the globe your best bet will be to obtain the above said from CNC4PC maybe.Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 15-03-2017 at 04:23 PM.
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15-03-2017 #9
Charlie NC studio is load of rubbish and the Video is spot on best place for it is the bin.!!
The Man you want to speak to in OZ for parts is Peter Homann. Probably the best (easy) solution for that machine given your friends lack of knowledge would be G540 because it'all-in one board with speed control built in and peter is very helpful with advise etc. However that would depend on the Motors to some degree.
https://www.homanndesigns.com/
If want better then I'd look at Separate motion controller and decent drives. Can't stress enough that cutting corners on electrics is the worst thing can do so advise your friend to dig little deeper and do it correctly.
I know Boyan is in love with the cheap Offline controller but IMO they are hardwork and inflexible, certainly not something new comer to CNC is likely to get grips with easily. There's Zero after sales support or Info and very little is known about them compared to other controllers like Mach3, UCCNC, Linux Cnc etc.Last edited by JAZZCNC; 15-03-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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