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  1. #1
    Again you are relying on software which isn't good or safe.

    Not sure why your resistant to using Master Latching relay system because this could handle all you need and more. When fault or E-stop occurs it's single Reset button when a fault is cleared. If you want the Software to be reset at the same time that could also be done but wouldn't advise it.

    Like Neale says any Fault or even software Reset which drops power to the drives or releases Motor hold will result in Re-homing so compromising your safety to save one button press just isn't sensible IMO.

  2. #2
    Ok, so by a master latching relay, how can I mechanize it? I assume your talking about the AC power that powers the motors, spindle, and coolant being physically cut by a relay, when e-stop or fault conditions are detected and staying latched, but how can I achieve this using fault signal - like you say without software?

    Neale - the relays on my PDMX perform all the functions of your latching safety relay, except they are not latched ( Unless activated by pressing the latching E-stop switch )

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dachopper View Post
    Ok, so by a master latching relay, how can I mechanize it? I assume your talking about the AC power that powers the motors, spindle, and coolant being physically cut by a relay, when e-stop or fault conditions are detected and staying latched, but how can I achieve this using fault signal - like you say without software?
    Creating latching relay is easy you just route the coil power thru one of the NO contacts before connecting to the coil. This breaks the circuit until the Momentary reset button is pressed. This Momentary button goes between power and the coil so when pressed powers the Relay coil which close the NO contact allowing power to flow to the coil, relay then remains latched until something breaks the latch. That could be E-stop, limits or fault signal.

    You then use any remaining Contacts on the relays to operate or send signals to things that need them. What you control or inform is upto to you but no where in this does software control anything. It just gets informed whats happened so can stop code or flash messages etc.

    Also don't confuse an E-stop which latches when pressed with a Latching Relay because they are not the same. The PMDX relays are just plain relays and soon as the E-stop is released they will become active again. Neils safety relay won't do that. Like wise if any of those contacts melt down closed they will Fail ON Neils Safety relay will sense this and won't allow restart.

  4. #4
    Thanks mate, that helps a lot.

    I'm thinking then, that the PDMX and motion controllers will be always powered, unless turned off at the on/off switch.

    I use the K2 relay on the PDMX, set to active if "outputs enabled", to open/close the DC power going through the latching relay setup.

    Meaning, I have to turn on the PDMX first, and have the motion controller and PC up and running, then I can momentary reset to power the motor drivers?

    I'll add an attachment, but my last 2 attachments have failed to post up for some reason.

    Would something like this be ok for the relay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Phase...YAAOSwdI9Y8ERd

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by dachopper; 24-04-2017 at 03:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got the new power supply, a few more wires and I can fire up the beast.

  6. #6
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,927. Received thanks 361 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    I would not power that up, as by the looks of things, the drivers will release lots of smoke!

    Do you have a link to the power supply?
    By the looks of it, you've wired the drives up to what should be the AC input to the toroid. The two pair of wires will get connected in either parallel or series, depending on if you want 110VAC or 240VAC.
    The main DC output I'd say is from the 4 terminal block at the bottom right, with the other two outputs to the left being for lower voltage/current outputs. 5 and 12VDC?
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  7. #7
    :) yes after a few beers, wiring not such a good idea.

  8. #8
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,927. Received thanks 361 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    You need to split the power into two distinct groups. One being control power, the other being motion power.

    Control power you generally want to remain permanently on, and powers things like the controller, input sensors, buttons, etc. Basically anything that being still active isn't going to cause motion.

    Motion power is anything that powers things that move i.e. stepper drives, spindles, solenoids. Motion power you want to kill as quickly as practical in the event of an E-stop.

    If you don't want to go to the expense of using a higher voltage for controls, use a 5V version of the relay I linked to previously, and do what Jazz said to create a latch. That way you can use the contact that's providing the latch, to also control the E-stop input on the BOB.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  9. #9
    ...and to get the fault signal to trip the latching relay, you can wire the fault outputs from the drivers in series with the estop switches, and any fault output or estop operation will trip the relay. I have three driver fault outputs and three estop switches all wired in series and it works a treat. It's that easy. The set of "switches" are wired into the supply to the relay and you just have to watch the polarities of the fault outputs when you wire them in.

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