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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by dachopper View Post
    Ok, so by a master latching relay, how can I mechanize it? I assume your talking about the AC power that powers the motors, spindle, and coolant being physically cut by a relay, when e-stop or fault conditions are detected and staying latched, but how can I achieve this using fault signal - like you say without software?
    Creating latching relay is easy you just route the coil power thru one of the NO contacts before connecting to the coil. This breaks the circuit until the Momentary reset button is pressed. This Momentary button goes between power and the coil so when pressed powers the Relay coil which close the NO contact allowing power to flow to the coil, relay then remains latched until something breaks the latch. That could be E-stop, limits or fault signal.

    You then use any remaining Contacts on the relays to operate or send signals to things that need them. What you control or inform is upto to you but no where in this does software control anything. It just gets informed whats happened so can stop code or flash messages etc.

    Also don't confuse an E-stop which latches when pressed with a Latching Relay because they are not the same. The PMDX relays are just plain relays and soon as the E-stop is released they will become active again. Neils safety relay won't do that. Like wise if any of those contacts melt down closed they will Fail ON Neils Safety relay will sense this and won't allow restart.

  2. #2
    Thanks mate, that helps a lot.

    I'm thinking then, that the PDMX and motion controllers will be always powered, unless turned off at the on/off switch.

    I use the K2 relay on the PDMX, set to active if "outputs enabled", to open/close the DC power going through the latching relay setup.

    Meaning, I have to turn on the PDMX first, and have the motion controller and PC up and running, then I can momentary reset to power the motor drivers?

    I'll add an attachment, but my last 2 attachments have failed to post up for some reason.

    Would something like this be ok for the relay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Phase...YAAOSwdI9Y8ERd

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by dachopper; 24-04-2017 at 03:44 PM.

  3. #3
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got the new power supply, a few more wires and I can fire up the beast.

  4. #4
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 14 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,970. Received thanks 369 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    I would not power that up, as by the looks of things, the drivers will release lots of smoke!

    Do you have a link to the power supply?
    By the looks of it, you've wired the drives up to what should be the AC input to the toroid. The two pair of wires will get connected in either parallel or series, depending on if you want 110VAC or 240VAC.
    The main DC output I'd say is from the 4 terminal block at the bottom right, with the other two outputs to the left being for lower voltage/current outputs. 5 and 12VDC?
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  5. #5
    :) yes after a few beers, wiring not such a good idea.

  6. #6
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Take 2.

    Still awaiting the AC power relay, and the 882 USB to Rj cord. Does anyone know if this is an easy DIY to make up the USB to rJ connection ?

    Was thinking of getting the 2 cords, splicing in the middle and connecting.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    You need both a USB to serial converter, which is more than just a cable, and requires a driver, and the serial to RJ-11 cable. Here's the pinout for the RJ-11 cable.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just ordered one from the US Leadshine distributor.
    Gerry
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