New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

[Desertboy]

I understand now, I think I'll use a molex extension cable to run one of power cables out the back of the new PC (Mini tower) then into the chassis with the steppers in it. Then run the 12v to a junction box and the 5v direct to the PC in and PC gnd. The 12v I can then split 3 ways 2 to pc fans to cool the stepper drivers and toroidal transformer and the other to the BOB.

The new PC doesn't have a parallel port (Doh! was watching a 3.4ghz it sold bought a 2.93ghz I7 assumed would be same motherboard and isn't!)

but does have 1 original PCI slot (And the rest PCI-E) so bought this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IEEE-1284-...72.m2749.l2649

Do I need a better adapter or will this be ok? The other adapters do seems to have more chips on them lol.

And the PC has a 8400GS 512 meg gfx card will this be enough to run fusion 360, looking around it should do but I'll have to turn shadows and some other effects off. This machine will only be used for CAM and controlling Betty (My name for the router) so don't want to spend any more than I have to on it. My home machine is my cad machine (Got a 760GTX in that, seems to power along fine).

Going to have to slum it with 4gb on the CAM machine for now but want to upgrade my machine to 16 or 32gb next month and then can rob the 8gb from that for the CAM machine.

[Chaz]

I understand now, I think I'll use a molex extension cable to run one of power cables out the back of the new PC (Mini tower) then into the chassis with the steppers in it. Then run the 12v to a junction box and the 5v direct to the PC in and PC gnd. The 12v I can then split 3 ways 2 to pc fans to cool the stepper drivers and toroidal transformer and the other to the BOB.

The new PC doesn't have a parallel port (Doh! was watching a 3.4ghz it sold bought a 2.93ghz I7 assumed would be same motherboard and isn't!)

but does have 1 original PCI slot (And the rest PCI-E) so bought this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IEEE-1284-...72.m2749.l2649

Do I need a better adapter or will this be ok? The other adapters do seems to have more chips on them lol.

And the PC has a 8400GS 512 meg gfx card will this be enough to run fusion 360, looking around it should do but I'll have to turn shadows and some other effects off. This machine will only be used for CAM and controlling Betty (My name for the router) so don't want to spend any more than I have to on it. My home machine is my cad machine (Got a 760GTX in that, seems to power along fine).

Going to have to slum it with 4gb on the CAM machine for now but want to upgrade my machine to 16 or 32gb next month and then can rob the 8gb from that for the CAM machine.

Add on cards are hit and miss. Some work first time, some are a struggle, some never work.

[Nr1madman]

If I understand you correctly it would work but you will only be able to home one axis at a time.. this is something I think about aswell for my build.
The way I think I'm gonna go is with one more bob to get inputs to use them separately :)

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[Desertboy]

Got the limit switches wired up and the Y axis limit switch cable fed through the energy chain which meant removing it, it's a very tight fit ;)

Spent ages on little bits like making sure the CY cable is well supported, cabling is fed nice and neatly back to the control box.

Also spent 2 hours stripping some copper radiator water cooling units from a massive control box going to keep one to cool my spindle and sell one they're chunky things.

Going to go back in an hour and see if I can get the CY cable and spindle cable on tonight and move the PC down and connect up the power, etc. So tomorrow morning I can start playing, need to think about where to mount my VFD and copper rad.

[Nr1madman]

Go-go desertboy! :D

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[Nr1madman]

Just tought of something..
I'd you have the limitswitch like that and get some overshoot you will crush the switch ;)
I.e if the machine is on a rampage and go full speed into the side.. If you have the switch in a way so the machine will only touch the trigger but pass the housing of the switch it should stop in a few mm :D

Make any sense?

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[Desertboy]

Just tought of something..
I'd you have the limitswitch like that and get some overshoot you will crush the switch ;)
I.e if the machine is on a rampage and go full speed into the side.. If you have the switch in a way so the machine will only touch the trigger but pass the housing of the switch it should stop in a few mm :D

Make any sense?

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Yes that's a good point but the microswitches are cheap and hopefully will reduce the damage when 4mm later the gantry mount crashes into the BK12 fitting lol, I'll see what happens when I start running it I guess.

Should order a selection of button and lever microswitches so I have spares to play with only got 1 left at moment unless I rob the tat off the printer but they're just shit.

[Nr1madman]

Yes that's a good point but the microswitches are cheap and hopefully will reduce the damage when 4mm later the gantry mount crashes into the BK12 fitting lol, I'll see what happens when I start running it I guess.

Should order a selection of button and lever microswitches so I have spares to play with only got 1 left at moment unless I rob the tat off the printer but they're just shit.

I'm wrestling with the pros and cons of different mountings of limits myself. Don't want to loose to much precious travel and don't want to cheap out so a crash will destroy something :)

Because a crash or eleven will happen :D

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[Desertboy]

Almost, almost there switches are wired to the BOB now, I've took power from the PSU case to a connector block then split it 4 ways to the AM882's.

Quick question my AM882's the power in is marked AC for both inputs which one is the + and which one the -?



I'm using DC obviously.

I have my water cooling feeds in/out installed, just got to connect the motors and the spindle and plug her in ;)

e2a Just realised the alarm is wired wrong on mine, manual makes it confusing, will swap them over

[Neale]

Quick question my AM882's the power in is marked AC for both inputs which one is the + and which one the -?

Doesn't matter in this case - because the power inputs can handle AC or DC, you can connect the DC either way round.