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  1. #1
    Having issues getting PC to talk to machine, first I tried linuxcnc but doesn't see my pci parallel port card, then I tried mach 3 doesn't work on 64 bits windows, the I dug out a spar pc didn't work so went to swap motherboard and discovered new one doesn't have parallel port.

    Had enough for now came home to see if I can find my windows Vista cd sure that's 32 bit never thought I'd use that again lol.

    Otherwise anyone got a pc with parallel port going to a good home near Leicester ;)

    I tested the spindle for the first time today got to work out where to mount the VFD.

    Last edited by Desertboy; 08-11-2017 at 11:30 AM.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  2. #2
    A lot of frustrating hours later still no movement but we have discovered that my parallel port pci card only works in serial mode!

    After much research I've bought a 2nd hand 2 port PCI parallel port card with a compatible chipset for both mach 3 and linuxcnc, 2 male to male cables and a 2nd BOB. (It's a Netmos)

    After Xmas I'm going to get a usb BOB, are these any good?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EU-Stock-...c=1&rmvSB=true

    Or should I plump for a better controller.

    I'm going to strip everything out and rebuild it better in another case lol and add in CY cable 2 core for the microswitches.
    Last edited by Desertboy; 08-11-2017 at 01:14 PM.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Desertboy View Post
    A lot of frustrating hours later still no movement but we have discovered that my parallel port pci card only works in serial mode!

    We shall see what I can sort today.
    I feel for you!!

    This is why I didn't want to even try the PP-way.
    I wanted to find a semi old pc with 32bit OS and PP and make it work on the cheap.
    Rejected that idea and bought a motion controller from the start. Hope it was a smart move :D

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  4. #4
    This is why I didn't want to even try the PP-way.
    There are thousands of machines using the pp its just as hard to set up a motion controller the principles are the same
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:


  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    There are thousands of machines using the pp its just as hard to set up a motion controller the principles are the same
    Yes, I know.
    But with modern pc and add on hardware it's becoming harder and harder.
    Just buying a card won't always work.
    I only look at this from the Microsoft perspective and that's a bit narrow but that's the only way I feel inclined to go.
    And when thinking that way you realise that soon there will even be problems getting your hands on 32bit OS supporting PP...

    Of course if you have an older pc/system that works and works standalone without Internet and such it's awsome and don't justify an upgrade. But what happens when something breaks?

    I do belive that an motion controller is as/maybe more difficult to set up but much easier to get a electrical connection between pc and cnc hardware.

    Since I haven't actually tried both options I could be extremely wrong :D

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  7. #6
    Problems my PSU stopped working (Possibly unrelated but one of my AM882 had a solid red light the other 3 flashing green, I wonder if this had something to do with it or if I have a bad AM882).

    99% certain it can be traced to a short I caused at weekend when electrician set my ameter up wrong and I shorted across my PSU output never realised it'd done this damage.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF0080.JPG 
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ID:	23164 They were plugged into the left connectors I just cut the wiring put new terminals and tried it in the terminals next door to see if I had gotten lucky but I hadn;t.

    There was a pop/bang and spark from roughly where the capacitors are.

    I've ordered 3 new capacitors and a new rectifier (Sure this is fine but £1 so just did it) and replacement barrier terminals.

    What's the best way to test the transformers to make sure it's ok? I was thinking unplug the capacitors and then test the voltage going into the rectifier in AC mode to see what I'm getting and then test the output of the rectifier in DC mode to see if that's working does this sound like a plan?

    Do you think I might have damaged my AM882's (I really hope not can't afford to replace this side of xmas)? And if I have a bad AM882 will be fun trying to sort with the Chinese (Bought 2nd hand) and will have to put a temp cheap driver to get going whilst I source a replacement.

    I can afford to replace one Am882 but not 4.

    How do I discharge the capacitors before I unsolder them to replace them and also how do I test which one(s) blown?

    I just realised I have a picture of my AM882 that was always red and it was green last week!

    Since I have AM882h could I not ditch the rectifier and capacitors altogether and just connect the output of the transformer (50v) to the drivers?
    Last edited by Desertboy; 08-11-2017 at 05:36 PM.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  8. #7
    Ah man bad luck! Not sure about a Solid Red LED...... This is from the manual:

    12. Protection Functions

    To improve reliability, the drive incorporates some built-in protection functions. The AM882 uses
    one RED LED to indicate what protection has been activated. The periodic time of RED is 5 s
    (seconds), and how many times the RED turns on indicates what protection has been activated.
    Because only one protection can be displayed by RED LED, so the drive will decide what error to
    display according to their priorities. See the following Protection Indications table for displaying
    priorities.

    Over-current Protection

    Over-current protection will be activated when continuous current exceeds the limit or in case of
    short circuit between motor coils or between motor coil and ground, and RED LED will turn on once
    within each periodic time (5 s).

    Over-voltage Protection

    When power supply voltage exceeds 90±1 VDC, protection will be activated and RED LED will
    turn on twice within each periodic time (5 s).

    Phase Error Protection

    Motor power lines wrong & not connected will activate this protection. RED LED will turn on four
    times within each periodic time (5 s).

    Sensorless Stall Protection

    The AM882 can detect the motor stall status using if motor shaft speed is above 300RPM. When the
    detection is active, RED LED will blink five times within each periodic time (5s).
    Attention: When above protections are active, the motor shaft will be free or the LED will blink.

    Hope you dont have to replace it

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexDoran View Post
    Ah man bad luck! Not sure about a Solid Red LED...... This is from the manual:

    12. Protection Functions

    To improve reliability, the drive incorporates some built-in protection functions. The AM882 uses
    one RED LED to indicate what protection has been activated. The periodic time of RED is 5 s
    (seconds), and how many times the RED turns on indicates what protection has been activated.
    Because only one protection can be displayed by RED LED, so the drive will decide what error to
    display according to their priorities. See the following Protection Indications table for displaying
    priorities.

    Over-current Protection

    Over-current protection will be activated when continuous current exceeds the limit or in case of
    short circuit between motor coils or between motor coil and ground, and RED LED will turn on once
    within each periodic time (5 s).

    Over-voltage Protection

    When power supply voltage exceeds 90±1 VDC, protection will be activated and RED LED will
    turn on twice within each periodic time (5 s).

    Phase Error Protection

    Motor power lines wrong & not connected will activate this protection. RED LED will turn on four
    times within each periodic time (5 s).

    Sensorless Stall Protection

    The AM882 can detect the motor stall status using if motor shaft speed is above 300RPM. When the
    detection is active, RED LED will blink five times within each periodic time (5s).
    Attention: When above protections are active, the motor shaft will be free or the LED will blink.

    Hope you dont have to replace it
    Yeah my flashing red lights were the nema phases wired wrong which was nice it told me, going to go back to test the drivers in a minute one by one, forgot I've got a 24v PSU which will power the AM882's up.
    Last edited by Desertboy; 08-11-2017 at 05:42 PM.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Desertboy View Post
    Yeah my flashing red lights were the nema phases wired wrong which was nice it told me, going to go back to test the drivers in a minute one by one, forgot I've got a 24v PSU which will power the AM882's up.
    Why don't you just fault find your main PS after all you will need it.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  11. #10
    One easy way to discharge a capacitor is to cross the two cap legs with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle, prior to do that you must remove the plug from the wall. Another way is to connect a consumption at the capacitor leads, like a resistance or even a light bulb, prefer the light bulbs with the wire inside no the neon light or led.
    If you want to measure a capacitor and you do not have a capacitance meter, but you have a voltmeter,first disconnect at least one of the cap legs,then put the multi meter at resistance measurement place the leads of the meter on the leads of the capacitor and see the resistance measurement at the meter screen rise until it shows infinity , this gives you an idea that the cap is ok if ohms start to rise and then stop at a low indication the capacitor is grounded. Other way is to place a 9volt battery at the cap leads and then measure the voltage with your voltmeter, if the voltage drops rapidly this shows a bad cap.For
    Last edited by Nickhofen; 08-11-2017 at 05:48 PM.

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