New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

[Nr1madman]

I keep forgetting.. did you plan on using separate 5v psu or power it from usb?

If using psu then it looks tight to get that connected there as well...

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[Desertboy]

I keep forgetting.. did you plan on using separate 5v psu or power it from usb?

If using psu then it looks tight to get that connected there as well...

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The BOB is powered by usb, need to get 12v PSU in there yet ;) If I'm reading the BOB properly it can only be powered by USB unless you solder your own connections. If you have the same BOB get your male to male usb cable now ;) although you can hack something together at a push I originally powered it up with a hacked 4 pin molex (Hard disk power cable) to USB.

I hope the AM882 is a straight swap for the AM882h as I used the broken one as pattern for setting up whilst I'm waiting for the new one.

[Nr1madman]

The BOB is powered by usb, need to get 12v PSU in there yet ;) If I'm reading the BOB properly it can only be powered by USB unless you solder your own connections. If you have the same BOB get your male to male usb cable now ;) although you can hack something together at a push I originally powered it up with a hacked 4 pin molex (Hard disk power cable) to USB.

I hope the AM882 is a straight swap for the AM882h as I used the broken one as pattern for setting up whilst I'm waiting for the new one.

Omg what have I missed now!!
I thought you could supply it with 5v on the connections you connected to the drivers... have you tried that? :D

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[Clive S]

Omg what have I missed now!!
I thought you could supply it with 5v on the connections you connected to the drivers... have you tried that? :D

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You need 5v + 12-24v for this bob the 5v can be supplied by the usb or by the bottom right hand terminals marked 5v PC

[Nr1madman]

You need 5v + 12-24v for this bob the 5v can be supplied by the usb or by the bottom right hand terminals marked 5v PC

Yeah that's what I thought but Mr desert seems to say something else? :)

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[Desertboy]

You need 5v + 12-24v for this bob the 5v can be supplied by the usb or by the bottom right hand terminals marked 5v PC

I have them connected to the dir/pulse +'s for the AM882's is this correct? 5v coming in from usb.



All I need to do is supply the AM882's 5v+ to both these pins? It wouldn't matter where it came from.

[Nr1madman]

I have them connected to the dir/pulse +'s for the AM882's is this correct? 5v coming in from usb.

Looks exemplary ;)

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[m_c]

Short answer - no!

Longer answer - the AM882 use an open-collector output. Think of it as being a normally-open switch that closes when there is a fault (like a stall). What you can do is wire them all in parallel and then to the BOB input. I do this with the EM806 on my machine and it works fine.

I'm not sure about the AM882s, but with the software you can configure the EM806 so the fault output is active when ok (i.e. switched on), and goes inactive on fault (i.e. open circuit). That's how I configured my EM drives, which would allow you to loop through all the fault outputs and create a failsafe circuit.

[Clive S]

Yeah that's what I thought but Mr desert seems to say something else? :)

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Yes but Mr Desert has not got it working yet

[Neale]

I'm not sure about the AM882s, but with the software you can configure the EM806 so the fault output is active when ok (i.e. switched on), and goes inactive on fault (i.e. open circuit). That's how I configured my EM drives, which would allow you to loop through all the fault outputs and create a failsafe circuit.

You are probably right about the AM882 also being software-configurable, but it looks as if getting a cable to be able to reprogramme the 882 and making all the configuration software work is another can of worms (judging by the experience of other people). I know it shouldn't be, but I didn't need to use the fine-tune facilities available through software and could manage with just the DIP switch options, so I chose not to change the factory setting for the alarm. That way I avoided any need to play with the configuration software. My thinking in this case was that normally you would be a bit more paranoid about NC connections, but here all the connections are hard-wired inside the box and so rather more reliable than anything going via plugs and sockets and around the machine itself.

Your recommendation is the better one; I chose to use a very slightly inferior option, and one that would be easier for the OP to use. Connecting in the fault outputs at all is a big leap forwards!