New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

[Neale]

I'm not sure about the AM882s, but with the software you can configure the EM806 so the fault output is active when ok (i.e. switched on), and goes inactive on fault (i.e. open circuit). That's how I configured my EM drives, which would allow you to loop through all the fault outputs and create a failsafe circuit.

You are probably right about the AM882 also being software-configurable, but it looks as if getting a cable to be able to reprogramme the 882 and making all the configuration software work is another can of worms (judging by the experience of other people). I know it shouldn't be, but I didn't need to use the fine-tune facilities available through software and could manage with just the DIP switch options, so I chose not to change the factory setting for the alarm. That way I avoided any need to play with the configuration software. My thinking in this case was that normally you would be a bit more paranoid about NC connections, but here all the connections are hard-wired inside the box and so rather more reliable than anything going via plugs and sockets and around the machine itself.

Your recommendation is the better one; I chose to use a very slightly inferior option, and one that would be easier for the OP to use. Connecting in the fault outputs at all is a big leap forwards!

[Clive S]

For the avoidance of doubt I use AM882's on the router, they are programmable with the RJ11 socket on the end.

You can make a lead up from an old phone then chop the end off and fit a D9 plug on using just 3 wires. Then use a USB to D9 adaptor to connect the RJ11 lead to the PC.

[Desertboy]

I need to work hardwoods with the machine, Predominately Oak, Walnut and Mahogany. I'm hoping it's strong enough.

I am planning to swap the gantry over to shortest span (Unless I have 0 issues with flex in which case I will keep it this way as it makes loading the router easier.). Originally I was going to have SBR25 on the bottom which is why I made the gantry the longest span with the hiwin's but since that has changed to Hiwin's all round I need to buy another ballscrew 1400mmm to swap it over.

I thought though it'd be best to use it for a bit to decide if when I do buy a new ballscrew if I should just change all 3 ballscrews to 1610's instead and upgrade the 2nm nema's to 3nm ones at the same time.

I've also been toying with when I swap the gantry over buying another set of 1500mm 15mm clone hiwins and having 2 rails per side on the bottom axis. Then making new plates all round and increasing the Z travel to 35cm! This would mean some serious rebuilding which I wonder if it's worth it at some point in makes more sense to build a new steel framed router then upgrade the old aluminium one.