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  1. #1
    To much heat at the workshop this time of year,so I am going to start the electronics wirring .
    Any diagram to follow?
    Last edited by Nickhofen; 15-06-2018 at 04:23 PM.

  2. #2
    I followed this schematic

    Its made by a forummember "euricain" I Think..

    Then there is this from jazz

    And I also found lots of inspiration from this. I think it was routercnc that made this one..


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  4. #3
    Thanks Robert.
    I had the number one and number three schematic,thanks for the second one.
    Can I ask why you follow the first schematic?

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    Thanks Robert.
    I had the number one and number three schematic,thanks for the second one.
    Can I ask why you follow the first schematic?
    Yes the last one is mine. Since then I’ve changed the Z drive to DQ860MA to match the others and run off the 68V supply. That allowed me to remove the 30V supply.

    As my new Mk4 machine uses 2 Z steppers I’ve added another DQ860MA drive off the same supply so there are 5 drives in total. Otherwise all the safety relays and interlocks are the same. Works well.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    Thanks Robert.
    I had the number one and number three schematic,thanks for the second one.
    Can I ask why you follow the first schematic?
    I was set on using the schematic from jazz since I started my build.
    Then I read the thread about the first I posted and thought it made sense..
    The one from routercnc has alot of extra benefits like bleed resistor and ability to change vfd speed manually.
    But I still went with the first :D

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  8. #6
    Just a casual observation for anyone looking to re-use these schematics.

    Some, probably not all, but certainly the cheap and nasty BoB that I have in front of me (and I've just re-tested) - which provide a 0-10V output to the spindle, and a 12-24V supply to provide this 10V reference on board... will use this same onboard 10V supply to drive the LED anodes on the opto-isolator inputs (so to switch the input, you connect the coupler's LED's cathodes to ground [via sensors, etc]).

    My point?, for these cheap BoBs, to use the inputs you still need to supply a 12-24V supply, as well as a 5V supply to the BoB.

    Like I said, probably won't apply to all BoBs.
    Last edited by Doddy; 16-06-2018 at 02:38 PM.

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  10. #7
    Thanks everyone for the help and the very helpful info, it is time to make my study now... :-)

  11. #8
    The last two days we had temperature drop and some rain so I went to workshop and lift the gantry and push the x axis rails in the y axis bearings.
    I weighted the gantry out of curiosity and the scale show 32.5 kg with out the spindle and the aluminium plates at the place of mdf,I wonder if the two 4nm motors will be able to move the gantry and cut at acceptable speeds.:-(
    To lift the gantry I made some kind of a crane with some scrap metal beams I had in the shop.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #9
    The 4Nm motors are STRONG! no need to worry :D


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  14. #10
    I hope or else I will have to rotate the ballscrews with my hands! Haha!!!

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