My Cheapo Chineese 3020t mini CNC Build (more like improvements) leanring all the way

[ravihotwok]

Cheers Lee mate.

Well a bit of a small but positive update, managed to sort the work area out for the cnc machine and the control pc, included a few essential tools and measuring equipment. Extraction system next.

[ravihotwok]

As this machine doesnt come with any limit switches as standard I have purchased some very small and discrete switches, I have also sourced some nice and small 2 pin connectors so they can be unplugged at any time with ease.

[ravihotwok]

As the control box which came with the machine had a faulty x axis driver I didn't want to exchange it for another cheap one, so I asked a few question on here and got some very good responses, all of which were pretty much above my head. As I have already purchased the Planet CNC software I thought it would make sense to purchase their own control box as I think the support they can provide would be very beneficial to myself being a complete novice. The box arrived on Monday, only ordered it on the Friday so I was very impressed with the delivery time. Once arrived I unpacked it, looked at it a bit confused then managed to find a spare half hour to start assembling it. Work was halted though when I realised my soldering iron was at home.

[ravihotwok]

Well I managed to have a good session on the control box tonight and my first ever stab at soldering, its a lot harder than it looks.
First job was to solder the pins to the board for the motor connections and other plugs which in not sure of lol

[A_Camera]

Well I managed to have a good session on the control box tonight and my first ever stab at soldering, its a lot harder than it looks.
First job was to solder the pins to the board for the motor connections and other plugs which in not sure of lol

Sorry, but all the soldering joints you made looks like really bad work. I would redo this. Get a solder sucker like this...



...remove every large clump, make sure your soldering iron is not too large but is designed for the purpose and that the solder wire is thin enough, quickly melting and floating well on the surface. The surface must be clean and the tip of the soldering iron must be kept clean using the wet sponge. I clean it after each and every soldering point.

Here are a few do:s and don't:s:



You need to practice on something which is not going to be used, not something which you need later on for reliable operations. Get a magnifier and check/fix every point. You will get a lot of headache later on if you box this and start using. Even if it works now, it may fail at any time.

[ravihotwok]

Thanks mate, why are they bad? in the link you sent me it stated when the older balls at the top of the connection and doesnt make contact with the metal ring on the board it is bad, but the ones I have done which are balls but they are making perfect contact with the board rings? I will revist this though just want it clarifying so I fully understand mate

[A_Camera]

Thanks mate, why are they bad? in the link you sent me it stated when the older balls at the top of the connection and doesnt make contact with the metal ring on the board it is bad, but the ones I have done which are balls but they are making perfect contact with the board rings? I will revist this though just want it clarifying so I fully understand mate

I can't spend time marking every point, but like I said, get a good magnifying glass and have a look at each one of them. Unless they are not looking like the one marked A in that picture I posted above, you have to redo it. Most of the ones I have seen in your pictures (not only in the one I linked to) are bad. If you have a ball it means the solder wire did not melt and floated out, or there was dirt on the surface or the iron or you did not heat up the wire you solder AND the surface you solder it to and so on... Just google "how to solder" and you will find millions of answers regarding soldering with pictures and Youtube video, so I will not go into more details.

[KeithElcomb]

Thanks mate, why are they bad? in the link you sent me it stated when the older balls at the top of the connection and doesnt make contact with the metal ring on the board it is bad, but the ones I have done which are balls but they are making perfect contact with the board rings? I will revist this though just want it clarifying so I fully understand mate

If I may just put a comment in here about your soldered joints. I speak from the position of running an electronics manufacturing company for 30 years.

The pads on the PCB are not ideal. Large tph (I assume through plated) holes and very small pad areas. Be careful not to overheat and pull a pad clean off the circuit board. Can be repaired but messy.

Make sure you get heat both into the component and the pad simultaneously. It would help to use a flux pen on those pads first. Here we use temperature controlled and adjustable soldering iron. Not cheap if you go for a Weller solder station, but some of the Chinese offerings are quite good.

Try to remember, you are not just 'sticking' the solder to the components or pads. You are trying to achieve a metal to metal bond. Sort of low temperature welding if you like. Cleanliness and enough heat are the key requirements, with flux and a lead based solder. Naughty, but nice.

[ravihotwok]

Cheers Kieth,

which pads are you referring too

[ravihotwok]

solder sucker bought and arriving monday