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05-07-2017 #1
The reason I asked, is lead free is a bit harder to work with, and easily results in joins like your photos.
Ideally you should be aiming for having the soldering iron in contact for less than 10 seconds. For heat sensitive components, even shorter than that.
Process should be - clean tip to remove old solder(that's what the wet sponge is for - the flux burns of, so you want any remnants of solder wiped off), apply blob of fresh solder on the tip, hold tip against what you're soldering, as soon as the solder starts to flow onto the leg/PCB, feed in enough to get a good join aiming for the contact point between tip and component, pull solder pulled away, pull soldering iron away.
Having a decent sized soldering helps. Too small and you have to hold it on for too long to get solder to flow, too big and you risk overheating things if you hold it on too long.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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05-07-2017 #2
thats very helpful and exactly what I was aiming for as you have echoed what I watched in a tutorial, but remember this is my first time so even though the theory is there putting it into practice is another matter lol. Hopefully ive not cooked anything, just waiting on further instructions on the advanced addons for this box from planet then I should be able to fire the thing up.
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05-07-2017 #3
Managed to get a bit more done tonight. I have decided to install limit switches to help prevent damage and to aid homing. I have decided to put 2 each of the x and y axis and one on the z axis. I have soldered 2 small tails to the switches in NC configuration and crimped a small 2 pin plug for future maintenance/removal
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06-07-2017 #4
Enjoying your thread Ravi, thanks.
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The Following User Says Thank You to AndyGuid For This Useful Post:
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First job was to solder the pins to the board for the motor connections and other plugs which in not sure of lol
All you need to do is put the iron back on them and when the solder starts to flow with the iron still on apply a bit more solder and the flux will do the rest. I know this may be controversial but full lead solder is a lot easier to use...Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:
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06-07-2017 #6
ffs!
No problem clive, will take that board out tonight and do as you say to make sure as the last thing I want is parts burning out, will be doing it around 7pm tonight so will do one re solder and post a pic up to see if its satisfactory before I crack on with the rest mate, be handy if you can keep an eye out pal.
I appreciate everyone's input :-)
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06-07-2017 #7
Cheers Andy mate
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06-07-2017 #8
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Ravi They are better but some are not good. It does take practise I think you said you have leaded solder.
You will have to power it up and see. Remember always apply the solder to the joint (its ok to wet the iron first with solder) It should run and not ball up. What is the wattage of your iron?..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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06-07-2017 #10
i have balled it up deliberately, once I had allowed plenty to go into the terminal i then gently moved the iron in a circular motion to ensure the solder didnt interfere with the next one. Iron is 30watt matey
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