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  1. #1
    I have a problem with the HY-DIV268N-5A, the 2 Led's turn red with nothing but the power cables connected to it. I have a 48v 10A power supply. My other DQ860 MA driver work great from this power supply. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Well documented write up, well done!! any news on reliability I assume you have done more testing?


    edit: Ok I have purchased one of these as they are cheap as chips!!!!

    fully expecting that I have to mod it to make it into something more reliable!! but I have just opened it up after delivery and it has 6N137's fitted already (no caps across the supply pins though) - time for some testing.....

    earle


    Earle
    Last edited by Earle; 31-07-2017 at 02:02 PM.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Earle View Post
    Well documented write up, well done!! any news on reliability I assume you have done more testing?


    edit: Ok I have purchased one of these as they are cheap as chips!!!!

    fully expecting that I have to mod it to make it into something more reliable!! but I have just opened it up after delivery and it has 6N137's fitted already (no caps across the supply pins though) - time for some testing.....

    earle


    Earle
    Sorry, I missed this, probably too late now. But, to answer your question re. reliability - yes, totally reliable now, although only just started using the machine again last night but managed to machine a face-plate for a project box without any problems.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by darius12 View Post
    I have a problem with the HY-DIV268N-5A, the 2 Led's turn red with nothing but the power cables connected to it. I have a 48v 10A power supply. My other DQ860 MA driver work great from this power supply. Any suggestions?
    Hello Darius, I have exactly the same problem with the same driver that I bought 2 days ago. Did you find a solution ? Where you able to solve that problem ? Thx.

  5. #5
    Hi,

    I'm also using TB6600 based controllers... these super-cheap ones:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and they're fine apart from after about 10 minutes any of X/Y axes will die, all indicator lights off on driver, until I power cycle it. They don't seem very warm and they don't auto-recover as you might expect if it were overheating. It's perhaps too different from your circuit but maybe someone here recognises the problem.

    Over current? Totally dodgy circuit / waste of money?

    Any suggestions appreciated!

    (36v 15A power. driving fine using GRBLv1.1. Failed on highest power and the one down from that)

    Phil
    Last edited by davies46; 23-01-2018 at 01:38 AM.

  6. #6
    Phil,

    If you could remove the cover and take/post a photo of the circuit board I'd be interested in comparing. Only advice is - when reassembling only tighten the case screws lightly (the plastic mould form for the screw hole tends to float inside the case - so if you tighten the screws too much it will snap the plastic.

  7. #7
    Happily! Here it is:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    the back showing the tiny chip:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and the block that sits on it (connected by some purple mat to the actual heatsink):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I expected it to be like the 6560 in size! It's labelled S109AFTG - I've been sold a totally different board

    Click image for larger version. 

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    OK looking into datasheet, the TSD and ISD modes on this chip require more than just disable/enable to recover, so it's probably one of those, and since it's happening towards the end of a job it's maybe pointing more towards TSD error. Will reset heatsinking and try again.

    OK, opened all the boxes, reduced clearance to heatsink and replaced foam pads with silicon grease. Heat sinks now getter hotter and no fail yet...

    -Phil
    Last edited by davies46; 23-01-2018 at 12:37 PM.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to davies46 For This Useful Post:


  9. #8
    Phil,

    Useful info there and it sounds like you're making headway into solving this - if so it would be invaluable to add your findings to this thread as you go, for the next poor soul who buys these (I also have 5 of these lying around... definitely not TB6600s, despite the eBay ad claiming them to be so - I think there's a hint as to the max voltage printed on the enclosure - I think (I'm at work at the moment) that the TB6600-based ones advertise themselves at upto 48V operating, whereas your's (and mine) at 40V are the little SMD devices. I'll also caution that the opto-isolators on that board are (according to datasheet) pretty sluggish devices - but chase one problem at a time and see if your thermal solution resolves your problems.

  10. #9
    Well, I did the thermal treatment on Y and it didn't overheat and the heatsink got a lot hotter, which is great. I then did the same job on the other axes and put them all back (in different order, probably), this time the Z failed. Now I've heat-treated a spare and swapped that in, so trying again.

    Ultimately I'd like to actually buy a real TB6600 controller and try that, anyone know of a good supplier for those? Not seen one in the UK yet that looks pucker, but Far East will do!

    Thanks,
    Phil

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