Thread: V Cutting Tape
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10-07-2017 #1
Boyan - Yes but your Z0 surface is plain. I have to paint my whole Z0 surface first and then cut in. I could then hand paint in the v cavity. But I generally like to airbrush.
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06-12-2017 #2
Would it be possible to deliberately carve slightly too deep (say 0.2mm for talking sake), paint the cuts, then mill the 0.2mm off the whole surface with a clearing bit?
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06-12-2017 #3
Yes but, this assumes that you require a natural colour surface. As my conversation with Boyan above. I need a painted surface, which is another ballgame. Currently my method is to paint or spray my base surface (Z,0 surface) then use industrial strength iron-on film over that. A good initial surface is required and a well dried polymer based paint is imperative for good film adhesion. I cut through for my lowest contour first. Iron back the edges to ensure a seal against the painted edge. Then paint or airbrush in the cut. If going for three or more colours, then I repeat the iron on film process as required. (Find a small triangular model film covering iron is very useful.)
I have tried cutting the surface back, as you suggest, and rubber rollering the topcoat. Results where not good.
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06-12-2017 #4
You could use laminations.
Layer1 would be your top colour
Layer2 would be your cut layer, revealed by the cutting tool.
Layer3 would be the unseen backing layer.
Pieces of different colour could be positioned in layer2 so that many colours would be revealed after cutting.
Of course that would take planning but the machine could cut those out to fit like a mosaic.
Some type of plastic would be ideal for Layer2 or possibly thin wood that had been fully saturated right through with colour.Last edited by EddyCurrent; 06-12-2017 at 12:50 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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06-12-2017 #5
Problem with solid wood or MDF is that the edge of that laminate has to be painted. Also it would seem to assume that the colour differentiation was on a common x,y (lamination) level. 3D colour changes would be inefficient at best I think. Unless you have a way please?
Last edited by Leadhead; 06-12-2017 at 01:26 PM.
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07-12-2017 #6
This is about paint!
You need to paint the top surface with a paint which is resistant to the solvent in the paint for the fill.
If you cannot do this then the solution (no pun intended) is not what you would like it to be.You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D
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07-12-2017 #7
The polymer base paint I currently use is achieving this. The pita is keeping the film attached to the edges after the shearing action of the cutters. I have it sussed it 95% with the iron on film but my original search request was for a better film to give 100% adhesion and still be removable. I do have that workable compromise currently and with due diligence it is giving me a result. Simply seeking either a better film or method.
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07-12-2017 #8
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