looking for a good 3d printer

**cropwell** · 23-07-2017

Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

I see what you said about size but check this one out especially youtube review videos http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HICTOP-CR-...QAAOSwA29Y55JL
I have one and it's working just great. ( I didn't have the time or inclination to build one, for a change I just wanted to plug it in and use)

It does not have auto bed levelling but I don't find that an issue.

That's a damn clever printer to print the example they put on the print bed, with one extruder as well !

I have a Wanhao 4DS which is twin extruders, but a small print volume. If I bought one now, I wouldn't bother with two extruders, I hardly ever do two colour prints and when I do it is a PITA to get it right.

**Boyan Silyavski** · 23-07-2017

For the money i would buy the Steel Prusa. Its cheaper than the Original Prusa and build with quality elements/ the electronics/ . It has unsupported rails, whats typical for cheaper printers, but is not like some funny rollers, rolling on aluminum profile. I dont know of something really better, from an educated point of view. Yeah, many will say this and that, but from CNC point of view, i see that as the best cheap printer around

**EddyCurrent** · 23-07-2017

Boyan,
As you might expect, I spent days weighing up one printer against the other in the required price range. Thought about building one but didn't really want to, I looked at the links to sellers in Spain that you posted in another thread and was just about ready to order the black steel Prusa when I came across the Creality CR-10.
Now in cnc terms there are what we might describe as undesirable elements, single Z drive, rollers for bearings, etc. but in reality on a 3D Printer I'm finding it's not a problem provided repeatability is there.
Also with the steel prusa it was interesting to see the price rise as options were added on, so after many hours of reading and watching videos, my choice was the CR-10, it's size being another positive for me.

**Ger21** · 23-07-2017

These are supposed to be very good for the money.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QIDI-TECHNO...rds=3d+printer

I didn't think I'd have any use for a 3D printer, but may buy one of these.

**Desertboy** · 26-07-2017

This Prusa is crazy cheap I'd just buy this if I were you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-Upgra...3D272622069677

Add auto levelling for £2

**magicniner** · 26-07-2017

I like the look of the Wanahao.
I'd avoid plastic framed printers like the plague, Aluminium or Steel construction at least means you have a good base for a rebuild or upgrade project at some future point.
Nozzles and Throats which aren't commonly available as generic spares are a bad idea as are machines not running the most popular open-source firmware versions.
Printers with the hot end and nozzle very close to the extruder drive may well prove problematic should you wish to print one of the more flexible filaments,

- Nick

**Zeeflyboy** · 27-07-2017

24v better all round. My printer was originally 12v, they later changed newer models over to 24v and I upgraded - steppers happier, bed heats up much faster, hot end a bit faster.

**Ross77** · 28-07-2017

Ok so Im coming to the conclusion that I will have to build one as Id probably end up rebuilding whatever I can buy.

If i was going to buy one I think the Wanhao I3 plus looks the best as it is 24v and touch screen, that said people still upgrade the extruder and have to brace the gantry to improve stability.

Ive had a dig around and I have all the mechanical bits to make a 500x300x200 machine. x and y belt driven and z on 4mm pitch lead screws. seems a no brainer as then I can get the best electrics to make it work.

Probably go for a 24v system and 32bit controller to get the best resolution

E3d aero extruder and hot end looks good quality and light weight

Any recommendations for the contoller and heat bed?

**Desertboy** · 28-07-2017

I'd look at a rapsiberry pi solution, cheap as chips and can add 4" colour touch screen for a £10

As for 24v
The difference you will notice giving the nema's 24v is not like with nema 23's lol, you'll get 30% more torque but in the real world it will make almost no difference.

But the heated bed you will notice the difference I would just get a cheap mk3 aluminium heated bed, they work well at 24v and heat up in less than 2 mins, at 12v it can take over 10 mins! If you're only printing PLA I find at 12v the bed will heat to 60c in a couple of mins but to get to 110c at 12v takes forever! So 24v makes much more difference when printing ABS.

**A_Camera** · 28-07-2017

Originally Posted by Desertboy

I'd look at a rapsiberry pi solution, cheap as chips and can add 4" colour touch screen for a £10

As for 24v
The difference you will notice giving the nema's 24v is not like with nema 23's lol, you'll get 30% more torque but in the real world it will make almost no difference.

But the heated bed you will notice the difference I would just get a cheap mk3 aluminium heated bed, they work well at 24v and heat up in less than 2 mins, at 12v it can take over 10 mins! If you're only printing PLA I find at 12v the bed will heat to 60c in a couple of mins but to get to 110c at 12v takes forever! So 24v makes much more difference when printing ABS.

The higher voltage on the steppers is mainly for speed not the torque. I think it makes a difference there.