looking for a good 3d printer

[m_c]

Now that makes perfect sense to me, thanks for explaining it i have learnt from your post, you obviously have a much higher understanding than me in general about the technology involved. I think the TMC2100 can take a 1/16 input, and re-pulse (is that even a word?) it to 1/256, but in a way that you still get the 1/16 resolution.

I believe the "Silent Mode" the TMC2100's provide is only really suitable for smaller printers / Delta Printers, and don't handle higher accelerations well, but just for context this is a good video.

I've got to admit, people who claim microstepping increases accuracy, are one of my pet hates.

The term you're probably looking for is gearing or scaling. With modern drives, there's a lot of internal scaling going on. The input simply tells the drive the distance you want the motor to move, be that a 256th microstep, or a full step. The drive then takes that, and runs it through however many switching phases it takes to move to that position, which in itself will depend on the speed things are moving at, as once you increase speed, the benefits of microstepping diminish, so the number of switching phases is usually reduced to ensure maximum motor performance (often called morphing).

[Ross77]

Thanks for all the good input. I was all set to build one and then a Wanhao D5 mini came along at the right price so Im now the proud owner of this little beast.

also has the heated glass bed and some PLA+ to play with. Should be up and running soon.

Thanks Again.

[spikey47]

Hi I have a Cubex trio 3d printer, triple extruder ideal if you want to use dissolvable filament for support material when printing complex parts. Very easy to use comes with some material & and tools to get you started. Good condition. £400

[A_Camera]

Thanks for all the good input. I was all set to build one and then a Wanhao D5 mini came along at the right price so Im now the proud owner of this little beast.

also has the heated glass bed and some PLA+ to play with. Should be up and running soon.

Thanks Again.

Cool. Have you printed anything? Are you happy with it? What's your impressions so far?

[magicniner]

I've been printing some Nylon parts with my Factory 3D Prusa i3 clone kit ;-)
This is my PLA part cooling duct with a 40mm fan.


- Nick

[Ross77]

Cool. Have you printed anything? Are you happy with it? What's your impressions so far?

Yes lots of failures but I guess its a learning curve. I had bed leveling issues and poor prints with layer shift, since found out that the 2 or the 3 screws holding the main x-y carriage where missing and the 3rd was loose.

tightening them has solved the layer shift but Im still getting 1mm variation on the bed calibration. guys on the forum think it is the micro switch but it seems to work fine when I tested it with a meter.

I think it will be a good machine but needs a few tweeks and lots of wear, the previous owners must have used it a lot.

biggest issues that i missed when researching are the bowden extruder and being stuck with the wanhao maker slicer program. (firm ware upgrades to 3d partry but not brave enough to try)

[A_Camera]

Yes lots of failures but I guess its a learning curve. I had bed leveling issues and poor prints with layer shift, since found out that the 2 or the 3 screws holding the main x-y carriage where missing and the 3rd was loose.

Too bad... never the less, at that price I'd expect that something needs to be fixed. Glad you managed to fix those small and simple things. Levelling issues are not difficult to fix but depending on the results you expect and the instruments you have to help you, can take time. Anyway, regardless if it is a CNC or a 3D printer, I think that spending time on levelling is beneficial in the long terms.

tightening them has solved the layer shift but Im still getting 1mm variation on the bed calibration. guys on the forum think it is the micro switch but it seems to work fine when I tested it with a meter.

Not good. On the other hand, 1mm variation should be easy to reduce considerably. If you have an instrument to measure than you could see if the problem is mechanical or electrical. The mechanical variation takes some time to remove or reduce, but normally should not be too difficult.

I think it will be a good machine but needs a few tweeks and lots of wear, the previous owners must have used it a lot.

biggest issues that i missed when researching are the bowden extruder and being stuck with the wanhao maker slicer program. (firm ware upgrades to 3d partry but not brave enough to try)

What do you mean is the issue with the bowden extruder? The printer I am planning to build is planned to have bowden type of extruder, so I'd be interested if there is an issue I did not think about.

[magicniner]

How long did it take to print it? Which temperatures did you have on the table and the extruder?

I think the print was about an hour and 40 minutes, 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer, 60C bed 170C hot end.
It's in Taulman Bridge which is lovely to work with compared to standard Nylon 6 filaments.

[A_Camera]

I've been printing some Nylon parts with my Factory 3D Prusa i3 clone kit ;-)
This is my PLA part cooling duct with a 40mm fan.


- Nick

How long did it take to print it? Which temperatures did you have on the table and the extruder?