Quote Originally Posted by Voicecoil View Post
Under some circumstances you (or more correctly your PSU if you've set it to constant current mode) will only be able to push the current to what the 720 rule suggests if you have some reserve voltage available, which may not be much on a 15V supply - I've found that in my bath I need 2 or 3V extra to get the recommended current, so I'd always recommend a 20 or 24V supply now. As for what you'll get on your 7in2 workpiece I'd reckon only 0.2A with 15V, which might be below the bottom end of the meter on your PSU - I doubt if it's amazingly accurate down there. Now then, can you see any fizzing/fine bubbles coming off the workpiece/cathode? if so, then you'll be doing some anodising. If you want to check your PSU, get a couple of 10 ohm power resistors and connect one across the terminals - with the supply set to constant voltage it should draw 1A at 10V, 1.5A at 15V. If you set the supply to constant current then you should be able to set it to 1A (voltage turned right up) with one resistor - if you now add the second resistor in parallel the current should stay the same. If you want to monitor the current on you car charger you could simply add something like this in series with the bath:

https://cpc.farnell.com/hobut/f3pam6...548?st=ammeter
That amp meter suggestions brilliant will solve my issue for the end caps.
I'm hoping I get time to have a play today and see what I can do. I did test placing a bolt as the anode ( work piece ) to check see if that got a reading which it immediately did v and A were both controllable

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