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  1. #1
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 19 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 3,342. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 82 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    For an experiment could you just use a standard lead acid car battery 3 sq/f would take 3 hours at 12A
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    For an experiment could you just use a standard lead acid car battery 3 sq/f would take 3 hours at 12A
    I used that while waiting for my PSU. The thing is that there are certain times where you have to take certain steps and there is nothing better watching at the display what's happening with the Amp draw. In fact you have to limit it at the beginning, hence the need for Volt Amp separate control. I guess with and digital amp meter you could do that monitoring. With the proper PSU and using the calculator above, i was able to reach desired anodizing thickness at first try.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 14-08-2017 at 06:08 PM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    I used that while waiting for my PSU. The thing is that there are certain times where you have to take certain steps and there is nothing better watching at the display what's happening with the Amp draw. In fact you have to limit it at the beginning, hence the need for Volt Amp separate control. I guess with and digital amp meter you could do that monitoring. With the proper PSU and using the calculator above, i was able to reach desired anodizing thickness at first try.
    I'm certainly no expert, but from my reading it seems the key to consistent results (especially when dying the parts after) is to use constant current from a proper power supply.

    Have you guys ever found a source for 6063 T6 aluminium for cathodes or do you just use lead and be done with it? I can't find 6063 T6 in any decent size.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy View Post
    I'm certainly no expert, but from my reading it seems the key to consistent results (especially when dying the parts after) is to use constant current from a proper power supply.
    The constant current is to limit as i said to a certain current the current draw. Then current starts to drop at a certain time, when certain thickness is achieved, hence you can judge the thickness by the current draw. You can not give more current than it could take when there is the anodizing layer already formed

    Quote Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy View Post
    Have you guys ever found a source for 6063 T6 aluminium for cathodes or do you just use lead and be done with it? I can't find 6063 T6 in any decent size.
    I don't know how big you are going to make your tank but here is some friendly advice:

    1. Dont be cheap on the container and if possible buy proper anodizing container. make sure it's from the right plastic. And keep the rest in dark place inside.

    I used a plastic one from chinese shop which i deemed good at the time and it worked well. In fact i bought 2 of them , transparent, and one was fit inside the other as extra security.

    That did not stop the original 20l plastic container to brake in my hands half full with acid when i was moving house next year and 10l of acid to fall and splash from 1 meter around me. Luckily my reaction was fast and as i always use full face protector , working trousers and protective boots around acids and when welding, so i got without a scratch. The plastic have deteriorated which is very strange, but i think that was result from me leaving it outside, though it was covered. The chinese transparent boxes were ok though

    2. Junkyard is your best place to go and find aluminum sheet. Any sheet will work. I used 1mm sheet with great results. If anodized, just use the other type of acid that you will use for cleaning your pieces to wash away the anodizing. Do the tank properly and use aeration, temp monitoring. If you do the tank big enough there will be no need for temp control, though if you are serious enough its not a big deal to DIY a way to cool the tank. No need to say that you must heat it using fish tank heater to the proper temperature.

    3. If there is a way to do all that outside open air beneath a shelter or sth, that's the best way. It stinks and is dangerous for health. I wear respirator with proper filter / which is different from normal painting filter/ . Maybe you know summer here in Spain, every time i was anodizing i was dressed like a nuclear response team, sweating like a pig, but health is quite more important. My tank was about 70x50x50cm and i dont see how sb will do that inside if there is not an extractor on top of it. Anyway, is best to use an extractor even outside so fumes go somewhere else , hopefully not your neighbours bedroom window


    4. Check all that works correctly with water before using actual acid in the tank. Do yourself a favor and buy a water osmosis sytem as you will need a lot of water, so buying distilled water will not do. Even for small projects.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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