MK1 Steel router build log 1500x800x200

[driftspin]

If you are making general hobby parts then all sorts of setups are required including vice work, plates clamped to the bed, set against dowel pins etc.

Also are you planning on using epoxy to level the bed? You can skim this with the router to get a surface which is parallel / matches your rails.

Hi Routercnc,

Ok so a lot of pins and clamp options then :-)

Yes i was thinking of pouring on a surface i can cut parallel to X/Y with the router.

This should become the reference surface.

Maybe gluing on some hpl like trespa is also an option, looks like it is easy to cut as well and equally pressure resistant.


Of course as thin as possible, and then put some strategicly placed 8040 alu pieces in between the crossmembers in the x and y directions for easy adjusting / sliding T nuts.


My crossmembers are spaced about 40 cm appart i have a box filled with 8040 cut of pieces i can do tetris with for this purpose.

It looks like i can still put a sump under the bed then or a part of the bed to stop fluids from raining down to the floor. if i decide to play with spray or flood cooling later.


Also i need to think about the add in vertical bed i have on my wish list.




I did run in to problem yesterday, getting 0-10volt working on the chinese HY02D223B vfd..



P001 = 1
p002 = 2

This did not do the trick yet.
VFD does not start.

M3 S5000,

This clicks my relays and puts 10volt out at the bob.
But no action at the vfd yet.

Manual control does not work now any more.


FOR ; DCM to bob relay,

VI to bob 0-10volt output.
ACM to bob Analog common.


I think ill check the vfd stand alone first.

direct connect vfd 10 volt to VI
and a short
FOR to DCM terminals

I read something on the webs about a J terminal... no such thing...


Also ill read the manual more carefully so to see what i missed. (more then 2 min)

After reading more carefully:

I have to check the values for pd044 through pd049
Maybe some extra functions are enabled.


Grtz Bert.




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[driftspin]

Ok so i solved the FOR DCM problem.
A wiring issue. 8)

Now i need to find out how to control the 5 axis bob 0-10v output.

m3 s1000 turns on relais
m5 off.

S1000 should set a voltage to output pin 1.. in pwm..

Im not sure what pwm speed / frequency works with the bob

1 khz?

Also it looks like it is proportional but reversed.

Anyone got a 5 axis 0-10volt working on uccnc?

Or should i skip hardware I/O and go straight for modbus?


Grtz Bert.



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[driftspin]

Ok so i solved the FOR DCM problem.
A wiring issue. 8)

Now i need to find out how to control the 5 axis bob 0-10v output.

m3 s1000 turns on relais
m5 off.

S1000 should set a voltage to output pin 1.. in pwm..

Im not sure what pwm speed / frequency works with the bob

1 khz?

Also it looks like it is proportional but reversed.

Anyone got a 5 axis 0-10volt working on uccnc?

Or should i skip hardware I/O and go straight for modbus?


Grtz Bert.



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Ok solved the uccnc vs 5axis bob pwm/0-10volt programming.


My UCCNC settings are:


Pin 1 port 3. (im using port 3 for now)
base frequency 800hz
Looks frequency fixes linearity issues for me

minimum dutycycle 100%.
maximum dutycycle 0%.
This fixed the reversed 0-10volt.


Maybe Ill will adjust settings to make it work from 2-10volts later.
so probebly 80 to 0 duty cycle
I dont like the 0 volt level.

It is almost linear now.

Next is to get HY vfd to react to external 0-10v.


Somehow the dial on the vfd is still active instead of external signal.


Must have still missed something.


Grtz Bert.

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[driftspin]

So i finally solved my 0-10 volt to VFD problem.

Some things in the manual are not completely like the vfd in real life.

The terminal vr does not exist.
Missing that one made me search for what i was missing earlier, terminal 1,2,3 J.

After staring puzzled to the vfd for a while i finally saw it, on the right side of the screwterminals

A jumper style selector. After moving the jumper from pin 2-3 to pin 1-2 the frontpanel potmeter did not work but the 0-10volt started working.

Just 1 problem left... only 9.62volt...
So not 24000 rpm but 23200 orso.

After filling up the cooling circuit i gonna try first cut tomorrow i hope.


Grtz Bert.

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[driftspin]

Today i did some rigidity testing.

My findings are Y and Z direction are much stiffer than the X direction.

Because of a design decision to have the x ballscrews near the top of the bed there is a quitte long linkage bar to the ballnut.

In the design is a linkage bar of a 70x5 mm strip 200mm long.

I under estimated the forces a bit.
The strip twists under x direction forces.
One can see the ballscrew flex a little too as a result of the week linkage.

Result is about .4mm of flex at 200n of force when the z is almost fully extended.

About 0.04mm ish at 20n of force.

So the first upgrade is identified before the first part is produced :-)


Grtz Bert.

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[driftspin]

Hi guys!


I am confused and have a few quick questions about uccnc vs fusion360.

Do i need to put my router bits in the tools library in both f 360 and uccnc equally? Like in numbering of the tools and dimensions?

And i am really trying to understand and start using a Z touch probe not sure what default probing routine does... does it change something in relation to G54 position?

My Ztouch probe cycle basically works touching off a plate connected to an input now.

Also am not sure where to entre the Z touchplate thickness offset . Somewhere in the m31 macro maybe?


Grtz. Bert

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[driftspin]

Ok so i figured some stuff out.

Made some (very slow) progress and produced the first parts for my diy dust shoe.


I need to get familliar with F360 modelling and manufacture options contour pocket 2d 3d
Was struggling with some differences between solid works and F360.. Youtube was a great resource.

I am really impressed on accuracy of the machine.
A 120mm circle was off by only -0.02 mm in both directions i actually suspect my cutter dimensions being not accurate.. Not important for now.

For now it is far better then my current operating skills.

I bought an acculock ( kurt style ) vise 140 mm and put grid of m6 nuts in a multiplex spoilboard.


The vise needs a solid support structure i still need to fabricate.


Grtz Bert.

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[Davek0974]

For F360 on YouTube, Lars Christensen is the best i think ;)

[Clive S]

For F360 on YouTube, Lars Christensen is the best i think ;)

Plus one

[driftspin]

Plus one

Yes he has been of great help so far.
Youtube has lots of good instruction videos Lars makes it look easy.

I was struggeling with loft cuts through multiple bodies.
Solid works can cut through parts in an assembly. F360 doesn't like that and cuts through bodies.

Need to find out how to do nesting.
And use g54 and up.

Can nesting be done in F360?
I am very in efficient atm with the stock.

But i am having fun more than anticipated :-)



There is a question.

Should a low end shopvac (i have a nilfisk buddy 12) do for a dust shoe?

Want to try +/- 50mm id hose icw a cyclone with that vac.....
It has a 25 mm id hose now.. it is kinda okay. Dust doesn't fly everywhere now...

Nilfisk Buddy 12 is very noisy...
Much more than the cnc is, most of the time.

Tried to read up on vacuum cleaners air watts and all.

Looks like a cheap shop vac is a dead end for multiple reasons.
Ill name a few typical issues on cheap models.

-Shorter life span.
-Bad hepa reputation on most.
-Not the highest volume.
-Noisy.


I am not clear on an economic and effective (hepa) solution.


Can a diy solution compete with commercial dust removal systems?


I was thinking a shop vac for cnc dust removal at the spindle

ICW a diy high volume (recirculation) hepa air cleaner for the whole shop. based on a standard fan and maybe 3 or 4 standard 300x300x35mm filters to improve flow on a low pressure type fan i have lying arround.
So high flow low power low noise.


So what do you guys use?


Grtz. Bert.

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