Best anodizing guide?

[JOGARA]

Thanks for all the info guys!

Don't know if I replied to the email or not, but thanks for the PDF!

Finally get to start reading it tonight.



As for power supply. I already had the DPS5015 though never go around to building the whole thing with PSU. So grabbed a 48V 10A 480W cheapo from eBay and that should arrive next week.
I have had pretty good luck with these supplies so far. Have about five 12-24v ones but no 32-48v ones.

[JOGARA]

What are you guys using for heating the baths?
And what material should the containers be? PP should be alright?

Thanks

[edit]
https://imgur.com/a/1kwXy
This guy does not use heat for the dye, I am guessing the heat helps?

[m_c]

I've never got as far as setting up an anodising line, as I'm struggling for space, and never did find out the legalities of disposing of the waste.

When I looked into it, I was going to just buy one of the Caswell kits so I knew everything would work, however I see they only offer the one kit now, and is quite a bit more expensive than what I remember.

[Zeeflyboy]

You don't need to heat the acid bath really, in fact in general the colder it is the better the result.

I often see other stages using an aquarium heater or other similar submersible heating element. This would certainly get things warmed up quickly enough!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/26138...6331929&crdt=0

[JOGARA]

You don't need to heat the acid bath really, in fact in general the colder it is the better the result.

I often see other stages using an aquarium heater or other similar submersible heating element. This would certainly get things warmed up quickly enough!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/26138...6331929&crdt=0

From what I read you don't want the acid hot at all. Both the etch and/or the anodizing tanks should be room temp as those processes get hot when reacting/putting amps though them.
The Desmut, Colour and Seal should be heated though...


Going off the Ron Newman guide that m_c sent be lists this;

1. Polish part using fine sand paper for shiny finish, or wire wool for matte (can also etch for a little longer for matte finish/hide imperfections)
2. Cleaner @ 140F 5 mins
3. Rinse (de-ionized water)
4. Etch in Lye for 10-30 seconds @ room temp
5. Rinse (de-ionized water)
6. Desmut @ room temp 1-3mins
7. Rinse (de-ionized water)
8. Anodize at room temp based off 720 rule
9. Rinse (de-ionized water)
10. Dye @ 140F for 15s-15m
11. Rinse (de-ionized water)
12. Seal @ 180F
13. Rinse (de-ionized water)
14. Hang to dry for 24 hours
    

Other guides I have seen do mostly the same procedure, though one suggested using "Sodium Bisulfate/Sodium Hydrogen Sulfate" instead of Sulfuric which I guess is safer?

As for heating the buckets, I like the one you linked, but I am limited on power in my current workshop. Wont be in my new one till end of November.
Pretty much can't draw more than 3000w in total.

Thinking of getting a couple 12v ones that I can then use one of these cheap controller boxes with. Safer too as those immersion ones don't always have earth on the metal case.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172822446...r=471604592191 (This is 220v ones yes, they do 12v too)

[JOGARA]

Just tried one of these in a 500ml glass jar and it worked pretty well.


Took a good 10-15 mins to get up to temperature so would expect a lot longer with 5l tubs.
Runs at 12v and draws pretty much bang on 10A so 120watts.

Going to test wit 5L now!

[m_c]

The specific heat capacity of water is 4.184 joules/gram/deg, so to raise 5 litres of water from 20 to 80 degC, would take 1255200 joules (4.184 * 5000 * (80-20)), or 0.349 KWh. Now if you've only got 120W, that means it would take 2.91 hours (0.349 / 0.12) assuming you have zero heat loss.

However, unless you've got insulated containers, I'd doubt you'd ever get to 80degC.

[Desertboy]

From what I read you don't want the acid hot at all. Both the etch and/or the anodizing tanks should be room temp as those processes get hot when reacting/putting amps though them.
The Desmut, Colour and Seal should be heated though...


Going off the Ron Newman guide that m_c sent be lists this;

1. Polish part using fine sand paper for shiny finish, or wire wool for matte (can also etch for a little longer for matte finish/hide imperfections)
2. Cleaner @ 140F 5 mins
3. Rinse (de-ionized water)
4. Etch in Lye for 10-30 seconds @ room temp
5. Rinse (de-ionized water)
6. Desmut @ room temp 1-3mins
7. Rinse (de-ionized water)
8. Anodize at room temp based off 720 rule
9. Rinse (de-ionized water)
10. Dye @ 140F for 15s-15m
11. Rinse (de-ionized water)
12. Seal @ 180F
13. Rinse (de-ionized water)
14. Hang to dry for 24 hours
    

Other guides I have seen do mostly the same procedure, though one suggested using "Sodium Bisulfate/Sodium Hydrogen Sulfate" instead of Sulfuric which I guess is safer?

As for heating the buckets, I like the one you linked, but I am limited on power in my current workshop. Wont be in my new one till end of November.
Pretty much can't draw more than 3000w in total.

Thinking of getting a couple 12v ones that I can then use one of these cheap controller boxes with. Safer too as those immersion ones don't always have earth on the metal case.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172822446...r=471604592191 (This is 220v ones yes, they do 12v too)

If you have a mains thermostat just tape the probe to the outside of the bucket accuracy will be good enough.

I use these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-10A-M.../142426824134?

daily very reliable never had one fail over 5 years.

[JOGARA]

If you have a mains thermostat just tape the probe to the outside of the bucket accuracy will be good enough.

I use these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-10A-M.../142426824134?

daily very reliable never had one fail over 5 years.

I presume that as long as the temps are in the ballpark around 120-140F then it is okay? Don't have to be so bang on?

[edit]
Multi buy, 3 for 2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292039778...r=591027809178

[JOGARA]

Not sure what I am doing wrong...

But the dye is not sticking, and from the looks of it not absorbing into the part much if at all.



When I spray with water it just all falls off.



I know black can he hard to work with as the ink bits are quite large.
Not sure what to do...


Here is a part that is not been tumbled. It has been through the system before the dye bath.
As you can see, I hope, it does look like it is anodizing. This part was shiny on the flats before starting the process.