Hybrid View
-
12-10-2017 #1
-
11-10-2017 #2
I used reactive resins slow kit. Don't remember the exact specs for it but it worked real good :)
It was about half the price of West 105/209 and it shipped to Sweden without hassle!
Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
-
19-10-2017 #3
Wow.. fast progress! I had my moat on for 8-10 days for guaranteed cure..
But you didn't have the super slow stuff?
I used reactive resins and had about 4-5mm meniscus.
Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
-
19-10-2017 #4
Or maybe I just rushed it :(
It seems super hard though. I used the slow - not extra slow. Sounds like the meniscus on mine was about right then. Still amazes me how this works. I could not get the frame level in all directions due to an apparent twist. But no matter which way I put this level, all I see is:
Granted, that is just a (high quality) carpenter's level, but still pretty cool.
Thanks,
Wally
-
19-10-2017 #5
Yeah I know :D
I was amazed with the glassmooth level surface..
Awsome stuff for DIY applications.
I was a bit stupid as I built my moat out of masonite and the epoxy merged with it. Proper hell to clean :)
Did the tape you used come of easy?
Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
-
19-10-2017 #6
No, it was also proper hell also! I'll use packing tape backwards next time as Clive and others suggest...
-
28-10-2017 #7
-
01-11-2017 #8
Got the rails and ballscrews for Y-Axis from Fred at BST. Got epoxy cleaned up and mounted first rail. Tried to rough-align second rail using some equal length bars between them and could not get them lined up. Took one off and put it on my surface plate. Nice and flat on top and bottom, but crooked as a politician in the horizontal plane. Getting 12 thou out towards ends.
Thinking this is to be expected when you pay $282US for 2 rails, 4 trucks, and 2 ballscrew assemblies. Anyway, guessing some others have dealt with this? What did you do?
I'm thinking of tightening down in middle, and then working my way out trying to pull the rail to a straightedge and cinch it down. Maybe make a saddle kind of jig that will give me a screw to adjust the rail before tightening it down. Sounds dodgy.
Thoughts?
Wallace
-
01-11-2017 #9
Hi Wally
Nice work with the pour, i explained this a while back but have not been able to find the thread it was on, but you are correct, fix the centre of the rail first then work your way outwards setting your rail to your straight edge, clamping the rail, drilling and tapping and then securing as you go.
Regards
Mike
-
01-11-2017 #10
Allow me to retract at least most of my last entry and apologize to our Asian friends. Oh...and admit to being a dope that goes off half-cocked...
I was looking at the edge along the base near the mounting surface - which is not really a reference surface, I don't believe. In checking the side of the rail where the balls ride, I get less than a thou over any 6-8 inches. At this point, I am just going to start on the gantry mounting and check it at different points as I go.
Regards,
Wallace
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)
Similar Threads
-
"Hacking" and "Modding"
By magicniner in forum General DiscussionReplies: 15Last Post: 07-01-2015, 08:59 PM -
Cnc router wood "roughing bits" anyone used these before?
By gavztheouch in forum Motor Drivers & ControllersReplies: 6Last Post: 27-04-2014, 10:11 PM -
BUILD LOG: Vertical fixed gantry. Design & build. (Steel/epoxy)
By Greeny in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 8Last Post: 19-08-2013, 08:26 PM -
"Racks" VS "ball screw"
By C.AlveSilva in forum Linear & Rotary MotionReplies: 1Last Post: 17-04-2012, 11:53 PM -
BUILD LOG: Planning and build of my "8020" aluminium CNC Router
By monza in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 14Last Post: 06-02-2010, 11:55 PM
Bookmarks