1st Build, Steel, Epoxy 24"x24" for Wood

[wallyblackburn]

Being a skin-flint I'm very curious how successful different cheaper epoxies are at self-levelling, so please report back when done.

Had a look on the web and wonder whether you've gone for just the Slow-Hardener or the Extra-Slow-Epoxy-Hardener which seems to me to be closer to the West system that the successful pours on this forum have used?

5:1 Slow Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/51-slow-hardener/
• Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
• Pot life @ 75°F: 20 minutes
• Set time @ 75°F (thin film): 10 hours
• Cure time @ 75°F (thin film): 1-4 days

Tropical Extra Slow Epoxy Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/tropical-hardener/
• Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
• Pot life @75°F: 46 minutes
• Set time at @75°F: 20-24 hours
• Cure time at @75°F: 4-7 days

I went with just the slow - not extra-slow. It will likely be in the 65F temp range here when I pour...

[wallyblackburn]

Well, I have it about ready to pour epoxy:



Can't figure out why my pics are upside down now...

[wallyblackburn]

Brushed a thin coat on to seal joints, seams, etc:




Still trying to get pics right-side-up. I think it has something to do with iOS 11

[wallyblackburn]

Read over more epoxy-related posts before pouring and came across the one by Boyan Sylvaski discussing shrinkage of centered bridge causing distortion in the middles of the rails! Well, I wasn't tearing it down and starting over. So, I did the pour, gave it time to flow out, and then blocked the bridge entrances with razor blades:



Used a heat gun multiple times to get rid of bubbles. I was surprised at how well that worked. You could see the bubbles pop and disappear as you waved the heat gun over. Top looks like glass at this point.

Wallace

[wallyblackburn]

Pulled forms off today. Not sure if this was because I used the Totalboat epoxy, but I was surprised at the size of the meniscus. I have one side pretty much cleaned up, but I'm guessing I had to file in maybe 5mm from the edge to get rid of it. Does this sound like what most of you see? Nothing to base this on, but I expected it to be a narrow and steep meniscus. I'll try to get a pic of the other side before cleanup.

Linear rails supposed to arrive from China this Friday...

[AndyGuid]

I've not done epoxy before but your query may be answered in this excellent epoxy thread :
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8197-...-for-levelling

IIRC others have suggested pouring epoxy 40mm wide for 20mm rails to allow for a miniscus of about 5mm and then some.

[Nr1madman]

Wow.. fast progress! I had my moat on for 8-10 days for guaranteed cure..
But you didn't have the super slow stuff?

I used reactive resins and had about 4-5mm meniscus.

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[wallyblackburn]

Or maybe I just rushed it :(

It seems super hard though. I used the slow - not extra slow. Sounds like the meniscus on mine was about right then. Still amazes me how this works. I could not get the frame level in all directions due to an apparent twist. But no matter which way I put this level, all I see is:



Granted, that is just a (high quality) carpenter's level, but still pretty cool.

Thanks,
Wally

[Nr1madman]

Yeah I know :D
I was amazed with the glassmooth level surface..
Awsome stuff for DIY applications.
I was a bit stupid as I built my moat out of masonite and the epoxy merged with it. Proper hell to clean :)
Did the tape you used come of easy?

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[wallyblackburn]

No, it was also proper hell also! I'll use packing tape backwards next time as Clive and others suggest...