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  1. #1
    Rigged up a tensioner using stuff on hand - including a Subaru timing belt idler bearing:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. The Following User Says Thank You to wallyblackburn For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    First movement!!!


  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to wallyblackburn For This Useful Post:


  5. #3
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 21 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 3,345. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 83 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    First movement!!!
    I don't think it will cut anything without a Z axis
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  6. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    First movement!!!
    Thats not movement that's a twitch.!. . . . Let it have it's head to shake the gremlins out.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 11-03-2018 at 09:15 AM.

  7. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    Rigged up a tensioner using stuff on hand - including a Subaru timing belt idler bearing:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Be careful not to over tension because will deflect the ball screws causing whip when at opposite end of travel. It would have actually been ok without a tensioner thou it's better down out of the way.

  8. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Be careful not to over tension because will deflect the ball screws causing whip when at opposite end of travel. It would have actually been ok without a tensioner thou it's better down out of the way.
    Interesting. I’ll back off the spring pressure and adjust as needed when it’s actually working.

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    Interesting. I’ll back off the spring pressure and adjust as needed when it’s actually working.

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes, that long run of belt, I would have probably around 10mm of easy deflection in it - you really do not want to "twang" timing belts like guitar strings ;)

    As long as they are not flapping in the breeze, the tension does not affect accuracy as much as you might think, but it will wear things out, cause resonance and generally not be good.

  10. #8
    What do you guys typically use for steps per revolution on your drivers?

    Thanks,
    Wallace

  11. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    What do you guys typically use for steps per revolution on your drivers?

    Thanks,
    Wallace
    Totally dependant on the mechanical setup - pulley sizes etc

  12. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    What do you guys typically use for steps per revolution on your drivers?

    Thanks,
    Wallace
    Step per rev isn't a setting you can pick or choose. It's an absolute calculation that is derived from several factors. The pitch of the ballscrew, Microsteps set on drives and any mechanical ratio.

    If your unsure mach3 can do this for you. Go to settings tab and just above Reset you'll see Set Steps per button. Click this and select the axis want to set. It will then ask for distance to move. Enter a value, make it small to start with, then measure how far it actually moved and enter the amount. Mach3 will then calc and set the steps per for you.
    Do this for each axis using a small value to start then repeat and set over a longer distance. Very important you measure accurately.

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