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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Ha, the router bit has no idea nor cares whether you are using a router or a cnc, in fact I'm suprised you thought there was a difference.
    Sorry I thought they were different. I just found a straight fluted mill bit that can plunge (specifically for CNC). Will give one of those a try. Thanks for suggestion. :)

  2. #2
    Plunging is fine but there comes a time when you should look at lead-in moves. What CAM software are you using ?
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 17-11-2017 at 11:48 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Plunging is fine but there comes a time when you should look at lead-in moves. What CAM software are you using ?
    I would only be plunging 6mm holes and the start of the table edge. I am using V Carve and Mach 3

  4. #4
    spiral or ramp it in, I have been getting the real cheap ones from banggood and had good results and about £1-3 each depending on size
    Last edited by charlieuk; 18-11-2017 at 12:01 AM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by charlieuk View Post
    spiral or ramp it in, I have been getting the real cheap ones from banggood and had good results and about £1-3 each depending on size
    Carbide or HSS?

  6. #6
    carbide

  7. #7
    Plunging can leave marks on the edge, ramping into the cut is a far better method.

    Measure the thickness of the MDF, if it's more than nominal then it likely has moisture content and that can make it fluffy.
    ONLY if it's dry, a coat of spirit sanding sealer helps to keep it dry and also penetrates and consolidates the surface making for a crisper edge.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 18-11-2017 at 01:30 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

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