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04-12-2017 #11
Testing is not proceeding in a logical manner.
Personally, I would install the original contactor first.
With the machine disconnected from supply, manually operate the contactor and confirm, using an ohmmeter, that all the contacts operate as expected.
Then I would remove the load, i.e. disconnect the selected motor, e.g. saw
Plug the machine in and press start and see if the contactor pulls in and holds
Now with a voltmeter I would test to see if we are getting 3 phases (full voltage) at the disconnected motor leads.
If not, I would start at the supply end and work my way through to find the reason.
If yes, then it suggests the wiring and contacts are okay, on no load at least.
If you then press stop, there should be DC across 2 of the motor wires for several seconds (it makes a loud humming noise under normal conditions)
If your machine works in a similar way to mine, if an e/stop button is pressed and you press 'start', then the braking system energises for several seconds just as during a normal stop.
This means that if the contactor, and it's contacts, are not working correctly it may be possible to initiate the brake during startup. This is the main reason
I would refit the original contactor and auxilliary as there may be some time delay involved here.
The drawing is one of the worst I've seen and it's not easy, for me anyway, to determine exactly what's going on, and I've used some complex drawing in the past.
I've attached a copy of the single phase version if it helps sort this out, (not studied it yet though)Last edited by EddyCurrent; 04-12-2017 at 10:55 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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